Author Topic: Wheel stud question  (Read 5415 times)

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Offline Gary Perkinson

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Wheel stud question
« on: December 12, 2004, 01:01:00 AM »
Okay, I'm back to bother everyone again....
 
 I was under the impression that five-lug axles (at a minimum) were mandatory across the board in LSR. But as I was checking out Speedweek '03 and '04 photos of my Pinto brethren on the SCTA website (car numbers 1972 and 7001, I think), I noticed that both cars had five lugs in the back but the stock four-lug pattern up front. I assumed that they didn't just sneak past tech, so I went back to the rulebook. The relevant part of the wheel section reads as follows:
 
 "Vehicles with tires having a diameter of 29" or greater, or with wheels over 17" in diameter must use a wheel manufactured for racing or reinforced as below. Wheels must be attached with at least 5 studs with a minimum diameter of 1/2" and 1" lug nuts."
 
 So have I been mistakenly applying the 5-stud rule across the board, when it actually just applies to 29" or larger tires and/or 18" or larger wheels? And can I assume that if I'm running 15" wheels and 25" or 26" tires, that I can theoretically use four-lug axles up front? (I'm already swapping to 5-lug Granada axles in the rear.)
 
 Thanks--
 
 Gary
LTA   G/BGALT Record (1 mile)     143.313
LTA   G/BGALT Record (1.5 mile)  148.321
LTA   F/PRO Record (1 mile)         114.668

Offline RichFox

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Re: Wheel stud question
« Reply #1 on: December 12, 2004, 11:00:00 AM »
Gary; Been there, done that with a 454 Monza. It passed tech lots of times. 15 inch wheels in front and 13 in rear. 4 bolts at both ends

Offline Sumner

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Re: Wheel stud question
« Reply #2 on: December 12, 2004, 01:59:00 PM »
Just to make sure I also understand.  
 
 My tires will be under 29 inches and the wheels under 17 inches and I hope the car will run over 200 mph.
 
 If I'm using a Datsun Z car rear in a lakester with 1/2 inch 4 bolt lugs I'm ok, right?
 
 And/or I use sprint car hubs either, front or rear, with 7/16 inch X 6 lug on 5" I'm ok, right?
 
 Thanks,
 
 Sum
 
 207 mph with Hooley
 
  <small>[ December 12, 2004, 01:00 PM: Message edited by: 1FATGMC ]</small>

Offline Bob Drury

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Re: Wheel stud question
« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2004, 02:31:00 PM »
Guys, remember this site is only a sounding board.  Any thing you read on here may or may not be valid.  Open your rule book and there is a listing of the tech committee head for the class you run in.  Thats the cat you want to talk to about what is or isn't legal. Neverless, keep on posting, because open disscussion helps all of us to be aware and learn more about our sport.
Bob Drury

Offline jimmy six

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Re: Wheel stud question
« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2004, 03:01:00 PM »
Thanx Bob
First GMC 6 powered Fuel roadster over 200, with 2 red hats. Pit crew for Patrick Tone's Super Stock #49 Camaro

Offline RichFox

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Re: Wheel stud question
« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2004, 05:30:00 PM »
Gary-One of my Studebakers has a Mustang 2 front end. I didn't want 13 inch wheels so I bought new rotors drilled for 5 on 4 1/2 bolt circle. Common Ford, Dodge, Studebaker size wheels. The rotors are inexpensive and allow you to use cheap wheels with 15 inch tires. I will never put another aluminum wheel on a Bonneville car. Steel is just to convinent to install Moon covers, you don't need long studs and special nuts (except for 1 inch). The rotors are cheaper in the long run and your rear wheels and fronts will interchange.

Offline Gary Perkinson

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Re: Wheel stud question
« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2004, 11:42:00 PM »
Thanks, Rich. Yeah, I'll definitely be going with steel, and I didn't even think about the fact that having five-lug wheels all the way around makes all the wheels interchangeable. I'll probably look into a five-lug Mustang II front axle if I do it--it should be a bolt-in....
 
 Gary
LTA   G/BGALT Record (1 mile)     143.313
LTA   G/BGALT Record (1.5 mile)  148.321
LTA   F/PRO Record (1 mile)         114.668

Offline RichFox

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Re: Wheel stud question
« Reply #7 on: December 14, 2004, 12:38:00 PM »
Gary-Go back and read above again. You don't need Mustang II parts, you need aftermarket disk brake rotors. You can get them from Sumit amoung others for a small investment.

SFC Rashley

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Re: Wheel stud question
« Reply #8 on: December 31, 2004, 02:11:00 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by RichFox:
  Gary-One of my Studebakers has a Mustang 2 front end. I didn't want 13 inch wheels so I bought new rotors drilled for 5 on 4 1/2 bolt circle. Common Ford, Dodge, Studebaker size wheels. The rotors are inexpensive and allow you to use cheap wheels with 15 inch tires. I will never put another aluminum wheel on a Bonneville car. Steel is just to convinent to install Moon covers, you don't need long studs and special nuts (except for 1 inch). The rotors are cheaper in the long run and your rear wheels and fronts will interchange.

SFC Rashley

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Re: Wheel stud question
« Reply #9 on: December 31, 2004, 02:12:00 AM »
Dear Sir,
 
 Obviously you have a reason for not using aluminum rims, may I ask why please?

Offline RichFox

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Re: Wheel stud question
« Reply #10 on: December 31, 2004, 10:57:00 AM »
As I wrote, they cost more, and they are harder to install Dzuse fastened moon covers on. They are thicker and require long studs, If the studs are going through a disk brake roter and a Centerline of Super Trick Crager wheel and you also decide you want to use a spacer to alow clearance for some different tire, the stud long starts getting to short. Also if you are using Centerlines (The avaible narrow wheels) after a few yearsI start woundering about the rivits holding it togeather. Whats going on in there? I can't see but I know how the salt is. RF