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Author Topic: Remote water pump Push or Pull  (Read 3863 times)
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Racerboy
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« on: October 21, 2008, 10:08:34 PM »

With the water tank ready to install  in my Comp coup I was wondering where to put the remote water pump. What are your thoughts about the best location of the pump. If the tank is in the back of the car is it better to locate the pump by the tank and push the water through the motor or should I have the pump close to the motor and pull it up to the motor. I will be using about 18 gallons to cool the motor
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« Reply #1 on: October 21, 2008, 10:10:14 PM »

Always push smiley
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Stainless1
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« Reply #2 on: October 21, 2008, 10:19:39 PM »

Always push smiley

yep, search the site, you'll find out why
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jimmy six
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« Reply #3 on: October 21, 2008, 11:29:24 PM »

Feed the pump with the largest line you can and do your restricting as it leaves the engine. Do not starve the pump, be able to bleed it, and lastly have an air/water bleed at the highest point of the engine to make sure all of the air is out of it...........Good Luck
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« Reply #4 on: October 22, 2008, 01:39:48 AM »

yep push ,with big attention to prime and bleed....
kent
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DallasV
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« Reply #5 on: October 22, 2008, 09:45:47 AM »

also keep as low as possible, we run ours along the lower frame rail, that way you always have "x"  inches of water column helping to prime the pump.
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dwarner
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« Reply #6 on: October 22, 2008, 12:05:35 PM »

By looking at your avatar I think you are familiar with the JFK pumps used on sprint cars, etc. We run the pump off the front of the engine with the remote tank in the rear of the chassis. Free advice from Ed Pink, use this pump. You can never have enough water, the idea is to eliminate any possibility of steam pockets.

Also, a heads up. Rules for 2009 will elminate any cooling liquid other than pure water. The exception will be the allowed use of a product such as Water Wetter or Purple Ice.

DW

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Glen
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« Reply #7 on: October 22, 2008, 01:10:28 PM »

The supply line(suction) should always be larger then the output line, And as Dallas says keep them low to have a good head of water.
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Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2008, 11:22:15 AM »

I am running 2 pumps, one at the water tank in the front of the car pushing and the other pump at the motor pushing (about 15' between pumps).

I talked with an engineer at Meziere and he suggested this setup....

Is this bad?
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« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2008, 11:53:02 AM »

JH, I don't think that setup is bad. My only concern would be to make sure the tank pump is the same or greater volumn then the second pump so as not to starve or cavitate the second pump. I think that could introduce air into the system or possibly damage the second pump.
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dwarner
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« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2008, 01:36:42 PM »

JH,

Thanks for the nudge. We also used a pusher pump at the tank.

DW
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« Reply #11 on: October 24, 2008, 04:07:07 PM »

Please excuse my Salt ignorance (never having raced there)  YET !!!

It seems as if you guys use large tanks of water to cool the engine.... Does this mean nobody runs a Radiator ?

Is the extreme heat the reason for using large capacity water tanks vs a radiator ?

Any help would be appreciated as we are about to begin my Stude build and I prefer to do the right (best thing)

Oh well, better finish packing for Maxton, need to be there by 8:00am...in the morning...

Charles
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DallasV
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« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2008, 04:11:19 PM »

CK, 20 gal of H20 = 160 lbs of ballast. That's why for us.
« Last Edit: October 24, 2008, 04:14:08 PM by DallasV » Logged

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Cajun Kid
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« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2008, 04:35:57 PM »

Dallas,

I see,,, I am still wondering "for engine cooling porpose" not ballast would a good radiator still work OK ? 

It would seem that ballast is a by product, not the primary reason for the water tank? Or am I wrong, it would seem that to get the weight needed using water, it would take up more space in the car and be more difficult to place where you need it,,

I am no expert, so Just asking..

Charles
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OHIO
B/CGALT, C/CGALT

LTA Record Holder and 200 Club Member
A/CBFALT, B/CBFALT, C/CBFALT, C/CFALT, C/CGALT,   E/CGALT, E/CFALT

Fastest Standing Mile at Ohio  196.833mph
Fastest Standing Mile at Maxton 191.006mph
Fastest Standing 1.5 Mile at Loring 205.939mph

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DallasV
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« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2008, 04:47:02 PM »

Kind of 2 reasons one is like I mentioned before not just ballast but working ballast. The other is aero. If your worried about keeping the motor cool enough here is an example from what we run. When we run the gas motor (500" bowtie) I don't even turn on the water pump until the 1st mile and at the end of the run we're about 220. When we ran the blown alky motor (300" small block) I never even turned the pump on and end up about 240.
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