Sportster/Buell Land Speed Build

[isiahstites]

Joe - That looks like Dan's work.........30 degree squish band as well? You send them back to him and have him dual plug them to.

Scott

[55chevr]

I had to cut the diagonal frame brace shorter. It interferred with the crankcase sump on the evo motor. I put in a cross brace and doubled back the cut off tube. Allows me to maintain some diagonal bracing integrity. I may add a pan in the front under the crankcase. Not sure if it is overkill or not.

[55chevr]

I might just do that ... That center plug is tough to change without striping the threads ... I guess I could do it on the Bridgeport at work ... Have to think about that one.

[55chevr]

I opened the axle slots to 25mm. I noticed that the axle adjuster won't go to full travel rearward. The S1 swingarm does the same thing.



To solve the problem I added 5/8" to the 1x2 tubing.

[isiahstites]

I might just do that ... That center plug is tough to change without striping the threads ... I guess I could do it on the Bridgeport at work ... Have to think about that one.

Yep, both of mine needed re-tapped.........I will probably put Time-Serts in both of them after the season.

Scott

[55chevr]

I know... I read your thread ... One of the reasons that I didnt do it right off.
Joe

[55chevr]

I had some machined swingarm caps ... look a lot better then the cast pieces.



Axle is turned down to 25mm (.982) matching the stock Buell S1 diameter


Axle and spacers came out perfect. Wheel is dead center in the frame.

[narider]

Looking good Joe, and those mounts are on the way.
Todd

[willieworld]

joe   use big and thick washers between the axel nuts and swingarm and large dia. spacers on the inside --it keeps everything from smashing the swingarm in on the adjusters --ive seen it happen a lot ---looking good ----------------------------------- willie buchta

[55chevr]

The frame braces are all welded in.

Set up the engine in the frame. Leveled and plummed them to ensure good alignment. Drive sprocket is aligned with rear wheel sprocket. I should tack it all up but I will wait until I get the front end on and everything is even and on the same track. A good friend is making me a sleeve adapter to accept standard Buell bearings and races in the steering neck. Should have it early next week.

Not a lot of overhead clearance. Well, lower profile will cut a smaller hole through the air.

Hope I can get the heads off in the frame to certify a new record. I guess that is a problem I want to have.

[isiahstites]

Joe - There looks to be plenty if clearance.....my rear head is much closer than that and I do not have any problems getting it on and off, put that rear center spark plug in is another story.

Scott

[willieworld]

you have plenty of room to get the front head off (the one you will have to pull if you break a record ) you can go to the later model rocker boxes they are 2 piece instead of 3 piece ---less gaskets ---drill the heads for duel plugs--if you put the plug on a piece of fuel line hose they are easy to start and get off -if you run duell plugs you can retard the ignition some--if you need a set of 2 piece rockers i have an extra set   with breathers ---one of the reasons for running the stock rear mount is you can take the front mount bolts out   loosen up the rear mount bolts the engine will tilt forward and you can remove the rockers if you have a space problem ---i dont think you will have to do that-----willie buchta

[willieworld]

p m sent  willie buchta

[55chevr]

Engine is in the frame ... rear mount is tacked ... engine is parallel to the rails .

It looks like I will need a 1/2" spacer under the sprocket. Everything is lined up square and plumb.



I fab'd up a battery box out of steel. Fits stock Buell battery.





I was planning on putting the battery in front of the rear tire. Now I am sure. I may hang it off the front of the frame in front of the engine.

[isiahstites]

Joe - Looks good, I believe PBI makes a counter shaft sprocket that moves the chain closer to the trans.

Scott