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Author Topic: Sportster/Buell Land Speed Build  (Read 31701 times)
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55chevr
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« on: October 19, 2008, 06:19:13 PM »

Just starting a new land speed project with a 1350 cc XL/Buell engine. I was going to use my original bike frame that I ran last year and this year (9216 APS/PG1000) but decided that I will leave it together and run it when I have the urge. I used to drag race motorcycles and I would cannabilize each one for the next one. In the end I didn't have a single bike just a pile of parts. I don't want to make that mistake again so I decided to start from scratch. After all you can't  have too many bikes or cars. I bought a nice 1998 S1W Buell White Lightning to use as a donor bike and I bought an old style drag frame off ebay that looks like it will be perfect. If anyone knows who made it or how these frames were originally done that would save me set up work on the mounts and tire / spacers / front end / etc.



The frame appears to be for an old iron head sportster. This style was made in the late 70's early 80's. Looks like it used a car rim.



Rear is set up for 3/4 inch axle.
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1212FBGS
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« Reply #1 on: October 19, 2008, 06:31:33 PM »

well its definately a rh drive chassis.... not 2 many bikes other than a sportster that use a rh drive
kr
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Glen
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« Reply #2 on: October 19, 2008, 07:04:26 PM »

Don't forget to get a new chassis number and log book. Could save you a lot of headaches down the road and for sure give you a build history.
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willieworld
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« Reply #3 on: October 19, 2008, 07:06:15 PM »

im with kent its a right hand drive---the front motor plates look like a sportster (buell to 2001 ) the rear mount isnt right for a sportster unless you ran the engine without the stock rear motor mount which is possible although its usually not done--overall a nice looking frame ---keep the pics coming--willie buchta
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donpearsall
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« Reply #4 on: October 19, 2008, 07:10:31 PM »

It looks like a rigid frame - i.e. no rear suspension. That may be good for a smooth and paved drag track, but the salts get pretty bumpy. Won't the rear wheel spend a lot of time bouncing up in the air with no traction? I have seen bikes out there with no suspension, but it sure seems that you need suspension to get maximum speed. Am I wrong?

Don

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isiahstites
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« Reply #5 on: October 19, 2008, 07:20:36 PM »

It looks like a rigid frame - i.e. no rear suspension. That may be good for a smooth and paved drag track, but the salts get pretty bumpy. Won't the rear wheel spend a lot of time bouncing up in the air with no traction? I have seen bikes out there with no suspension, but it sure seems that you need suspension to get maximum speed. Am I wrong?

Don



Nice frame Joe, looking forward to your build. My next build will have suspension but I havent even noticed at Bonneville or El Mirage that my current bike is rigid.

Mabry runs rigids and has runs some real good numbers.

Scott
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1212FBGS
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« Reply #6 on: October 19, 2008, 07:26:16 PM »

suspension is nice but not manditory. lots of fast records set rigid. your frame doesnt look to have a lot of rake in it (good) but the leverage of the front end stuck way out front like that is .... well i'll be nice and say "60's".... the back half is way too wide and your legs will be hangin out like.... ok i'll be nice again.... one very important thing that my junk your plans is motor offset... if it is a car tire back half and an narrow iron sporty motor then you can almost guarentee that the motor is offset to the right. doesnt took like there is any outer bearing plate mounts welded to the frame... yeh yeh yeh you can buy or even make an offset sprocket but the output side of those sportster trans are junk. you'll bust the crankcases without a outer bearing support. so i'm guessin they offset the motor..... hope ya didnt pay much for it...
kent
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1212FBGS
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« Reply #7 on: October 19, 2008, 07:27:46 PM »

Scott, isnt your frame one of those off the shelve $200 paucho rigids?
kr
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55chevr
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« Reply #8 on: October 19, 2008, 09:26:44 PM »

Looks like the rear mount bolts directly to iron head cases without the rear aluminum mount. Front mounts are dead center of the down tubes. I will get some early sportster front mount plates and sit the evo cases in to see if there is any engine offset. I may have to cut and move the front motor mounts over if there is offset. I have to cut the ugly iron head rear mount off and fabricate a rear evo motor mount.



Rake measures 36 degrees. Which is about what I would like. Scott, what did yours measure?
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isiahstites
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« Reply #9 on: October 19, 2008, 09:39:21 PM »

My frame is a Paughco and they built with the up and out stretch I requested.  With the new configuration I thing I set up the rake at 38 degrees.

Scott
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55chevr
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« Reply #10 on: October 19, 2008, 09:49:51 PM »







Looks like Kent is right. This sure looks like an offset motor. The frame I ran in the 70's used a Ceriani front end and the steering neck on this frame looks alot like that neck did. It is 2-1/4 OD, .125 wall tubing. Buell races just fall right through. I will have to machine up an insert to use the inverted fork Buell front end.
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isiahstites
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« Reply #11 on: October 19, 2008, 09:53:48 PM »

Looks like Kent is right. This sure looks like an offset motor. The frame I ran in the 70's used a Ceriani front end and the steering neck on this frame looks alot like that neck did. It is 2-1/4 OD, .125 wall tubing. Buell races just fall right through. I will have to machine up an insert to use the inverted fork Buell front end.

He usually is............

Also it looks like with the front end being way out front and you and the motor being way back that your center of gravity is going to be close to or behind your center of pressure..............something you should look into for stability purposes?? Hopefully someone with more experience on the subject will chime in.........

Scott
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1212FBGS
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« Reply #12 on: October 19, 2008, 10:05:10 PM »

what do ya want from me now scott.?.... the only time you kiss up to me is when ya want somethin.!....
Yep dem old school dragsters did shake now and then shocked
kr
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willieworld
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« Reply #13 on: October 19, 2008, 10:10:53 PM »

now that i see some good pics of the frame ---it is for a sportster and its made to bolt to the engine with no rear motor mount---and the stock sportster was offset in the stock sportster frame so dont be in a hurry to cut off the mounts yet--try the motor in the hole first--the motor that you have will bolt into this frame  iron head sportster and late sportster and buell  (to 2002 ) are the same ---i have a neo-classic buell in my shop---tomorrow i will take some measurements and get back to you-- willie buchta
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JimL
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« Reply #14 on: October 19, 2008, 10:28:22 PM »

If the engine is offset, you can try hanging the bike from both ends (centerline, top of tubes and steering head) without wheels, but with the engine.  Test battery position, fuel tank, oil tank, anything you can...to see if it can be made to hang perfectly vertical.  Then you will know if you can live with the offset engine.  Don't mount the wheels when you do this...the extra weight will fool you...making it seem like you're closer to correct, than you actually are. 

The wheels are spinning, at speed, and don't count as part of the balanced mass pulled 90 degrees to gravity.  When speed gets high enough, as we've all tried on motorcycles, you can hang your weight way to one side and the bike doesn't even tilt...but that doesn't mean it might not wobble! shocked

I'm going to have to do the same thing on my project, because the engine had to offset about an inch to make everything come together.

Regards, JimL
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