Author Topic: Dual Purpose Wiring  (Read 2955 times)

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Offline DSR Bruts

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Dual Purpose Wiring
« on: October 13, 2008, 08:45:55 PM »
I have my car totally taken apart, and am going to make some changes.  I want to put a dual purpose (street/race) wiring system in it.  Here is the reason, since I live 1199 miles from Bonneville (Kansas City) and we race only once a year (Nats) at this point (will probably run more than once at Bville in the future).   I would like to put it on the street in Bonneville trim (w/o fire system/cage/tires).  I have a Taylor Race Car Panel that works great.  It includes the following rocker switches (w/fuse):  Ign (ON-OFF), Starter (Momentary), Fuel Pump, (Test-On), Aux (Off-Lo-Hi), Cool (Off-Lo-Hi) and Lights (Off-Lo-High).  My dash has provisions for everything to be used on the street.  I will keep my race car panel wired up and use it at Bville, but want a cheap easy to install trunk mount system for the street.  It's a '27 roadster, so I don't need long leads).  Need your recommendations....  What is the cheapest and best street system to use?
Bill and Ross Brutsman
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Offline Stainless1

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Re: Dual Purpose Wiring
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2008, 09:08:30 PM »
build a clone for the street...
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O

Offline DSR Bruts

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Re: Dual Purpose Wiring
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2008, 11:04:41 PM »
I deserved that one.  I'll figure it out myself, using the race panel as a start.
Bill and Ross Brutsman
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Offline Cajun Kid

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Re: Dual Purpose Wiring
« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2008, 11:07:48 PM »
Why not use the American Auto Wire Highway 15 kit ?  Each wire is plug n play to the fuse panel, so if you need to rewire later all you do is unscrew the set screw and replace, no need to re do the panel.

Charles
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Offline Stainless1

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Re: Dual Purpose Wiring
« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2008, 11:24:31 PM »
DSR, what do you think you need different for the street?  A keyed ignition? anything else?  You could use one of those racing as well, why not wire in a keyed master ignition power on the dash.  Maybe I'm missing something in SR class, but your race panel should hold up on the street, use should keep it from rusting.
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O

Offline DSR Bruts

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Re: Dual Purpose Wiring
« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2008, 11:58:31 PM »
Thanks for the information guys.....

I am going to use the Taylor 1041 panel as a beginning, replacing a couple of the rockers that will work better for lights and so on.  I really don't need a "keyed" ignition switch as I can use my master electrical switch (w/o handle) in the back for security.  I am going to make it as simple as I can w/o any extras as it will remain basically a race car. 

By the way Stainless, I don't know if you know Ray Motes, formerly from Wichita and Kansas Racing Hall of Fame.  A friend of mine who ran Taylor Wire in Grandview, MO, but I was over there today as they help me with my car, and he retired last week, but will be at the SEMA Show. 
Bill and Ross Brutsman
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Offline krusty

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Re: Dual Purpose Wiring
« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2008, 03:26:09 PM »
If you are not adding more than headlights, taillights, and brake lights it's pretty easy to do.  There really isn't a need to buy a "kit" to do this, as you'll spend more than you need to.  1) Brakelights: unswitched 12v to inexpensive (coupla bucks) manual reset circuit breaker (or fuse) to brake switch to bulb(s).   2) Taillights: 12v from "ign" through energising switch of choice to another breaker or fuse to bulbs.   3) Headlights: Unswitched 12v to headlight circuit energising switch of choice through 30amp thermal reset circuit breaker to common terminal on good quality Bosch or = SPDT relay. Connect low beams to NC terminal, high beams to NO. Use a toggle switch to energize the relay for high beams. I prefer to use a pushbutton velcro'd to the steering wheel (there's no truckstop room in the footwell with 3 pedals!) Plenty of choices for 2 position switches (i.e. a=taillights, b= taillights and headlights) in your local NAPA catalog or SOCAL Speed Shop, etc.  or (duh! you've got one) through the Taylor switch (low= taillights,  hi= both). Charles is right , AAW is the way to go if you need all the "stuff" but you don't; it's what I install in customer cars.   PM me if you need more.  vic

Offline 38Chevy454

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Re: Dual Purpose Wiring
« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2008, 03:51:33 PM »
Related, but not specifically your case.  I used to drag race a 70 Camaro.  Typical back half ladder bar car, full cage and 14x32 rear slicks.  Ran high 10's, so not too radical.  I had only wiring for ignition/fuel pump, start, tailight (so the tower can see when you pull off the end of the track at night) and elec water pump and fan.  The car was set up with an alternator to help keep the battery voltage up high throughout a run and day at the track.  So that was already wired in with the battery in the trunk.

Well, I got this crazy idea to make the car a street car.  As I had a full fiberglass front end and doors, lexan windows and huge slicks, it was far from a real street car.  But i digreess, back onto the subject.  I decided not to add headlights, so it was daytime only.  I added a simple fused wire through a brake switch to both tailights for brake.  Wired both together, did not have turn signals, remember that I had no lights on the front?  That is it, no other wiring was added.  Still used all the race wiring.  No turn signals, no horn, no wipers, fixed windows that did not roll down, one seat with full safety belts, slicks on the street, quite loud and super low for a street car.

Now I did add mufflers, simple extension off the headers and turn out before the rear tires, and would pump the slicks up to 10-12 psi for the street.  I ran about 6 at the track.  That car was so much fun driving on the street.  The Cinderella nightime curfew kind of sucked.  But I tell you that driving it on the street was a way to enjoy the car a lot more than just at the track.  Since the car was 25 years old at the time (1995), in KY where i lived you could get "historic plates" for any vehicle 25 years or older.  So that and some serious lack of detail to my insurance person "Well it does have an engine swap to a 454 and some aftermarket wheels..." I had a legal registered and insured vehicle to drive.  I even had a bet with some guys at work that I could drive it the 20 miles to work and home, I did it and proved it was streetable.

I would encourage you to do it, just use your existing wiring and add the supplemental circuits you need for street.  No need for a duplicate system.  To my way of thinking that just adds an unneeded layer of complexity.

With all this talk it makes me want to consider making my 55 Stude project to be street driveable, notice I refrain from the exact street legal term, hahaha.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2008, 03:53:24 PM by 38Chevy454 »
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Offline DSR Bruts

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Re: Dual Purpose Wiring
« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2008, 04:27:29 PM »
Great ideas!  I think the "down and dirty" will be the way to go.  Charles, excellent suggestion Autowire makes great stuff.  Vic, I like your ideas using what I have and making it work, excellent detailed suggestion.  '38 Chev....loved your rendation of a Camaro on sterioids....was your Dad a Moonshiner?  Stainless, I've got enough switches laying around to make a simple system work.  When it comes to juice, I'm running 3 Optima Group 31 Batteries (large truck style) for weight and to run my MSD Digital 7 "Plus" ignition.  Tonight, I will begin finding the "stuff".  Thanks Guys!

Bill and Ross Brutsman
778 D/STR
SDRC, BNI, SCTA, NSRA, SEMA
De Oppresso Liber