Killing the vibration......how?

[isiahstites]

If this one breaks after I build a rubber mount for it I can afford 10 of these at this price compared to one of the Auto Meters.........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&item=160290695687

And before you pipe up Larry...........maybe you should get your ass off of the cpu and in the garage and building a motor for the bike so you can quit playing Monday Morning Quarterback!

[ol38y]

...

[narider]

Scott, I took out a VDO Extreme tach on my 1000cc Ironhead Sportster(the tach was rubber mounted to some extent), then 5 Drag Speciatlies mini tachs (testing tachs as I call em today) each mounted with different types of isolation BS I was trying (with both a full air rear suspension and as a rigid), before finally getting a mini tach to live by mounting it as solid as I could to the bike... and then I put another VDO Extreme back on(a $400 tach at the time by the way) with it mounted as solid as possible to the frame as well. It has since made many trips down the concrete at Maxton (which makes Bonneville '08 feel like a pool table) and is still living fine today.
















Solid mounting on my Ironhead was my ticket(and I mean rock solid to my neck in between my triple clamps)... but then again our glass like track and my japanese like motor may make it mute point 
Todd

[isiahstites]

Ya know Scott. If you didn't want other opinions then why did you pose your question here? I was only trying to point out that my tach is for m/c's and may be different then yours.  But it's not a problem. I'll never comment on any of your posts again. i'll just sit back and laugh , as I've done quite a few times before, at how stupid you can be. At least now I don't have to spend the better part of an hour on the phone with you trying to figure out why your engine won't turn over with the newly installed cams. Only to find out you hadn't put the cam cover on so you could "watch"  the cams go around!!! So, in other words, shove it up your a#$.

As far as me going to the garage to build a motor, I seem to remember you didn't make Bonneville with your new motor last year either... You had to get used pistons to put your motor together. I had to order complete new heads. But, I will have a motor for next year that I built and designed myself. I'll see you then dough boy. Maybe you should think about Tractor Pulls!

Wow Larry, I am glad you got your true feelings out! At least now I know. My post was meant to continue last nights joking around, I realize that after reading your post that you took it in a negative fashion and not as it was intended.

I have to go now I need to go make a few more stupid mistakes so you will have some entertainment.

Scott

[narider]

Ya know Scott. If you didn't want other opinions then why did you pose your question here? I was only trying to point out that my tach is for m/c's and may be different then yours.  But it's not a problem. I'll never comment on any of your posts again. i'll just sit back and laugh , as I've done quite a few times before, at how stupid you can be. At least now I don't have to spend the better part of an hour on the phone with you trying to figure out why your engine won't turn over with the newly installed cams. Only to find out you hadn't put the cam cover on so you could "watch"  the cams go around!!! So, in other words, shove it up your a#$.

As far as me going to the garage to build a motor, I seem to remember you didn't make Bonneville with your new motor last year either... You had to get used pistons to put your motor together. I had to order complete new heads. But, I will have a motor for next year that I built and designed myself. I'll see you then dough boy. Maybe you should think about Tractor Pulls!

Dang, and truckstop to boot! I thought ya'll was joking around.. but you apparently have a serious problem man. If anyone ever puts just half my mistakes out in the public eye... they'll have to start a new site for it cause there ain't enough room here. Must be hard to walk around with all that pride weighing you down!
Todd

[Stainless1]

Hi Jack(D), a little, but just during the love fest.... 
Todd, hard to see the tach mounting bracket, can you get your head down that far to see it.  Took me a while to spot it, now I have to look at your riding pictures to see how you do that....    Love the scooter. 
OK, back to the love fest... 

[isiahstites]

Dang, and truckstop to boot! I thought ya'll was joking around.. but you apparently have a serious problem man. If anyone ever puts just half my mistakes out in the public eye... they'll have to start a new site for it cause there ain't enough room here. Must be hard to walk around with all that pride weighing you down!
Todd

Thanks for the pictures Todd, I went over to Kents the other day and he showed me the way one of his was mounted so I am going to try something similar.

Larry is right about my cams no denying that I couldn't get my motor to turn over by hand when I was first putting her together and trying to learn what to me at the time was a new motor. He helped me out as I didn't know what I was doing as I was/am a rookie at this LSR stuff. It's alright though I will typically post photos of my mistakes as they do not bother me as it is how I live and learn when someone see's a better way of doing something or they find something just plain wrong and they chime in...........so Larry if there is anything else you need to tell landracing.com that I did that was stupid to get it off of your chest please feel free.

Scott

[1212FBGS]

oh, oh,...me, me, me, ive seen ya do some pretty hilarious stuff can i tell everyone after larry is done..

[isiahstites]

oh, oh,...me, me, me, ive seen ya do some pretty hilarious stuff can i tell everyone after larry is done..

Sure, as long as I can tell everyone some of the stuff you have done.......I myself have witnessed a few things.

[narider]

Hi Jack(D), a little, but just during the love fest.... 
Todd, hard to see the tach mounting bracket, can you get your head down that far to see it.  Took me a while to spot it, now I have to look at your riding pictures to see how you do that....    Love the scooter. 
OK, back to the love fest... 

Jack D??? Did I miss him peeking in or something?

You can see my avatar to the left to see how I can see the tach. But they've never never been for an actual visual, at least not in their entirety. I only ever have to see the 8k rpm area in top gear at the end of the run. Up to that point is my reasoning for using the VDO as it has programmable outputs and I can set each shift point per gear at it's own rpm to trigger my shifter solenoid, plus it records the run as well.

Ya know Stainless... I wrote my reply and then for some(stupid) reason added the pics afterwards... and then when I posted it I thought "those pictures show a bunch of nothing other then placement... awww, no one will notice or say anything". Should of figured you saying "so, where's the mount?"... no I looked and don't have any good pics of the trrial and error mounts I tried... lots of rubber hose, some dense seat foam, a gel pad and even giant glob of bubble pack one time. Finally zip-tied one straight to the front left leg of the frame (as you can see I had the VDO and the test tach on there at the same time) and it survived(two of them I took out because they were only 8,000 rpm tachs). So once one survived a few meets I went back to the big tach and mounted it solid (removed the oe rubber grommets form it's mount and made a solid one) and it's been fine since.
Todd

[ol38y]

Hey all. i'm sure most didn't want to hear from me again but I just wanted to say I have apologized to Scott personally and am now publicly. What I said was uncalled for and not my true feelings. I let my personal problems interfere with my social perspective. For that I apologize to Scott and this forum. So, for now I will continue to learn from here but will step back and just listen.

Larry

[Stainless1]

Hi Jack(D)-- dual mean using creative spelling
first, Hi to Dolan, good to see him posting instead of lurking... anonymously
Second announcing that I was headed a little off subject, kinda like this post... 

Todd, I thought I saw the mount (panel type) in one of the pictures, but not really the attachment.  The ingenuity of LSR guys during the packaging process is always interesting. 
Scott must have already learned the sacrificial Tach method, and if you are not using all the bills and whistles, then a cheap tach will work fine. 

Is that your Indian? Customer? 51? 52?

OK kids, back to subject,
Vibration comes in a variety of frequencies, the trouble is finding an isolator to kill the freq that is damaging your stuff without using thousands of dollars worth of lab equipment.  Rubber kills a wide range depending on stiffness.  You should use something stiffer than you think most of the time.  Trial and error is how most of us do it.  Finding the right parts, built for rugged use is always a good start.  If a part holds up to drag racing every weekend, it might work for a couple of years of LSR... 

[saltwheels262]

a lot of mc tachs used on harleys turn to junk .  have heard 'to get the cheapest one you can' from more than a few people. am looking into an inexpensive digital  one now . more on it later.

franey

[narider]

Hi Jack(D)-- dual mean using creative spelling
first, Hi to Dolan, good to see him posting instead of lurking... anonymously
Second announcing that I was headed a little off subject, kinda like this post... 

Agreed on all counts...
And I can't believe i missed the Jack D. innuendo - my hair (yeah, when I had it) has never even been blonde

Todd, I thought I saw the mount (panel type) in one of the pictures, but not really the attachment.  The ingenuity of LSR guys during the packaging process is always interesting. 

I hear ya on the packaging process... like many of us I 'm sure, I've used alot of non functioning items just for placement and to make sure there isn't an intrudence issue or anything on the way in and on test rides (on both LSR and street bikes). From pill bottles taped together to mock up the air shifter placement to my cardboard gastanks and spray foam tail sections... it saved me a lot of money, time and grief.

Scott must have already learned the sacrificial Tach method, and if you are not using all the bills and whistles, then a cheap tach will work fine. 

I love sacrificial gimmees... the "piston throw" for the kids at our last party was as big as the "eggrod run" and the "pin the biker on the harley"... I'm sure the next one will include a "tach toss" for sure.

Is that your Indian? Customer? 51? 52?

Good eye, Bob. 1953 actually... it's the 159th from the last documented Chief off the line when the factory shut down in '53.


It was found by a soldier buried in a ditch in Iraq by a customer of mine (multi tour Major in the Army). It couldn't have been found by a better person and will get the trreatment it dedserves whene the time comes. Other then the bars and the impromptu regulator mount, etc, it's all stock and as you can imagine, will one day (post restoration and post war) be a very well known bike.

OK kids, back to subject,
Vibration comes in a variety of frequencies, the trouble is finding an isolator to kill the freq that is damaging your stuff without using thousands of dollars worth of lab equipment.  Rubber kills a wide range depending on stiffness.  You should use something stiffer than you think most of the time.  Trial and error is how most of us do it.  Finding the right parts, built for rugged use is always a good start.  If a part holds up to drag racing every weekend, it might work for a couple of years of LSR... 

A PPG distributor neighbor of mine wanted me to put my tachs on his paint shaker... I didn't see the relevancy until I saw the GIANT paint shaker HD motor factory used on the v-rod developement. I still couldn't bring my self to putting my new tachs(no matter how cheap) on that thing. I told him after looking at his paint shaker in action I told him that it didn't have anything on my ironhead going down Maxton's track... I think I could break his paint shaker before the half mile mark if he'd let me mount it on my bike. 

Out of curiosity (as I'm sure the 3 of you have had your hands on some awesome stuff) , what would the least costly way to check or aquire an actual frequency reading at different places on a vehicle?
Todd

[Stainless1]

Is that your Indian? Customer? 51? 52?

Good eye, Bob. 1953 actually... it's the 159th from the last documented Chief off the line when the factory shut down in '53.
It was found by a soldier buried in a ditch in Iraq by a customer of mine (multi tour Major in the Army). It couldn't have been found by a better person and will get the treatment it deserves when the time comes. Other then the bars and the impromptu regulator mount, etc, it's all stock and as you can imagine, will one day (post restoration and post war) be a very well known bike.

The 53 is fairly rare, and in Iraq... wow very very cool, I can hardly wait.

Out of curiosity  what would the least costly way to check or acquire an actual frequency reading at different places on a vehicle?
Todd

It would be with the thousands of dollars worth of instrumentation that I mentioned.  I learned over the years, as you change things, the vibration frequency in the area will change as well.  Yes I said area, because there are lots of different vibration frequencies all over any vehicle.  Most vibration isolators are built to target a specified frequency, usually to isolate the frequency most likely to damage the part you want to protect...  so you have to know the frequencies that will likely damage your part, also determined with thousands of dollars worth of equipment and some sacrificial parts. 
Soooo... those of us without the benefit of deep pockets and unlimited development budget just use the trial and error method. 
Again, use something firmer or stiffer than you think would kill the vibration.  For a panel mount gauge, I would start with a firm rubber ring between the gauge and panel mountings. 
Encapsulated circuit boards are the most resistant to failure, so as expected, a digital unit will probably hold up better than one with moving parts and internal wires to break at the solder joint.  Of course an old school guy prefers to see the needle.....