Author Topic: Turbo plenum  (Read 106031 times)

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Offline manta22

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #30 on: September 15, 2008, 07:39:50 PM »
JH;

It would look good anodized-- have you considered doing that?

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Offline Peter Jack

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #31 on: September 15, 2008, 08:11:43 PM »
Clear anodizing would work fine. Colors are another matter as the welds are a different density than the plates and often come up a significantly different color.

Pete

Offline manta22

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #32 on: September 15, 2008, 08:34:35 PM »
You're right about that, Pete. If you dye the anodizing a dark color there is less mismatch but it still should look pretty good.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Offline panic

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #33 on: September 15, 2008, 09:44:03 PM »
Use contact paper and make it look like tree bark.

Offline Rex Schimmer

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #34 on: September 15, 2008, 10:20:37 PM »
Johnny,
5052= GOOD! Continue! Still impressed with your "mud gun" welds!

Rex
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Offline Dr Goggles

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #35 on: September 16, 2008, 12:16:38 AM »
Good Jonny. We usually weld it with 5356 wire which feeds much better than 4043 in the machine. A little preheat definitely helps the quality of the weld and a thorough degreasing and wire brushing with a stainless brush will add to the quality of the weld. Save the brush for aluminum welding only.
Pete

Jonny, have found these to be invaluable for prep when welding Al, also good for getting sand into all sorts of sensitive items ( tools, motors :oops:, pants, eyes)....just a quick blast along the seam and away you go.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=12852&group_ID=1799&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Big admirer of your 'tude dude, you're not a spectator are you :-D :-D Make the thing and relevant advice is forthcoming ...and there's plenty here.

Johnny,
5052= GOOD! Continue! Still impressed with your "mud gun" welds!Rex
...ah yes the "hot metal pump"....
« Last Edit: September 16, 2008, 12:18:54 AM by Dr Goggles »
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Offline Peter Jack

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #36 on: September 16, 2008, 07:35:55 PM »
If you're going to blast the pieces before welding, especially with aluminum, use the brush after as the weld really doesn't like silica. Glass beads are preferable to sand.

Pete

Offline bharmon77

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #37 on: September 25, 2008, 08:25:56 AM »
Johnny thank you for the insight in your turbo project, the subject of a homemade turbo system for my Hayabusa powered lakester has occupied my mind for the past month. I looked on the Nebulous Theorem web site pictures showing the use of the stock rubber air box connecters in thier turbo plenum? What do you think of this idea? It does make the plenum a little easier to construct and you probably gain some Suzuki engineering as to the shape of the inside and entry of the connecters. Just a thought, I am not opposed to doing welded connecters.  Congrats on your records.

BHarmon
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bak189

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #38 on: September 25, 2008, 07:47:06 PM »
O.K.....on your homebuild turbo/system (draw/thru in our case) to fit a Busa head.........build your plenum with 1.5 inch spigots to the head........machine up 4 spigots to fit over the spigots on the head....retain the machined
spigots to the head with set screws, sealing with a rubber o-ring..........go to you you local plumbing store and buy 4 Fenco #1056-150 1.5x1.5 rubber pipe connectors....these connectors are molted and come complete with clamps for $20.00 for 4.............and there you go!!!
GO FAST..............................................................................

Offline Jonny Hotnuts

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #39 on: September 27, 2008, 02:05:10 PM »
Quote
I looked on the Nebulous Theorem web site pictures showing the use of the stock rubber air box connecters in thier turbo plenum? What do you think of this idea? It does make the plenum a little easier to construct and you probably gain some Suzuki engineering as to the shape of the inside and entry of the connecters. Just a thought, I am not opposed to doing welded connecters


Rick is a smart guy when it comes to making the busa motor run. I find it way more impressive that someone designs, fabs and applies ideas to make HP as apposed to someone who buys HP out of a box. RY definitely is an innovator (*and pioneer) to busa HP.

This does not mean that I have to agree with everything he does.
This would be one case…..doesnt mean its wrong (it is after all, proven to work) only that I would not do it.

The stock boots only method for retention to the plenum is a lip that pops in. With the high temps of boost (the stock rubber is not designed for heat and could soften) if the plenum was not 100% ridged to the motor under boost I could see the potential for the boots to pop out (this may over spool the turbo….bad). I am not saying this will happen….only that I would not feel comfortable with it.

This is the method I am using for the connection:


The "boots" are the same high temp silicon that connects the up pipes and the clamps are the good ones.

I haven’t been able to do much on the plenum for the last few days; I am waiting on my fuel rail blanks.
Should be here is a few days.
« Last Edit: September 27, 2008, 02:08:27 PM by Jonny Hotnuts »
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Offline manta22

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #40 on: September 27, 2008, 02:18:40 PM »
JH;

Any time you clamp a rubber hose section to a tube (or even a stub), it helps to bead the tube end to prevent it's blowing off. It can come off fairly easily under pressure and vibration. If you can't bead the end of the tube, cut a groove in it (this works only on really thick tubing) or run a weld bead around the outside. In a desparate emergency, a few sheet metal screws will work; the heads of the screws prevent the hose from sliding over them because the hose is clamped to the smaller diameter.

A friend in a single- seat off- road racing sand rail got burned when his radiator hose came off and dumped hot water down his back. He became a believer in beaded tubing after that.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Offline hayaboosta

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #41 on: September 27, 2008, 03:11:19 PM »
Quote

This is the method I am using for the connection:


The "boots" are the same high temp silicon that connects the up pipes and the clamps are the good ones.

I haven’t been able to do much on the plenum for the last few days; I am waiting on my fuel rail blanks.
Should be here is a few days.


jonny-  I have found with my turbo kits that two thinner clamps to secure the plenum to the t-bodies better than a single large clamp.
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Offline SPARKY

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #42 on: September 27, 2008, 10:49:38 PM »
Great STUFF guys---preach on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Offline Andy Cooke

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #43 on: September 28, 2008, 03:50:40 AM »
I agree that all pipes need swaged (or equivalent) ends and 2 clamps.  I'm not sure if that's the case here, the plenum will be braced off the engine, and the rubber tube is just making a seal.

Other tips for making boost tubing stay together are (these are not a replacement for swages, they are in addition):
straps that bolt the 2 tubes together
grit blasting the clamping surface
hairspray..

The trick with the last is to harvest brownie points whilst enduring you have the right stuff.  Next time your partner of choice's hair takes on that crispy, cardboardy texture show some interest, enquire about the products...  However, if you want to ensure you don't suffer the brownie point crunch make sure you wipe all your fingerprints off the can.  Getting oil out of the serrations on the little white button will take a few minutes.  Anyway, you degrease then spray the mating surfaces, assemble, and leave to dry overnight.

From the "Korean turbo" thread it sounds like you've picked a turbo, when do you get it ?

Andy

Offline Dean Los Angeles

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Re: Turbo plenum
« Reply #44 on: September 28, 2008, 01:55:39 PM »
Sooner or later the box is going to break. The square corners are going to fatigue fail from the pressure fluctuations.

If you haven't cut holes in it, put a fitting on it an pressurize it to 100 psi. You will be alarmed at how much the center balloons up. In fact, make that 50 psi. At 100 it could fail.

I would put 3 center studs to help retain it.

Even with a turbo air flow is still king. The flat sections and corners are going to cause turbulence. The square edges on the intake tubes also cause turbulence. Amen to putting a bead on the tube to keep the rubber tube from blowing off.

Learned that the hard way. Nothing like having 30 psi boost at 9,000 rpm and having the hose blow off. It took about 3 days to go back to regular breathing.  :-o
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