cool, sounds good 2 me. Probably one of the more logical formulas I've seen. When i started designing motorcycle air boxes in the earlie 90 I came on a research paper from WW2 airplane air intake formulas and the conclusion they came up with in the 40's was 1.5 x intake valve size. So if ya take a sbc with 2.02 intakes then your 2 7/16 is pretty close a little small but pretty close. of course that's all top end pressure. I had to design around bottom and mid range air flow restrictions for bikes pulling off the corners so we went quite a bit bigger. except for tracks like Daytona and RD America, we had a cover that riveted over the hole making it smaller. Modern bikes red line at 13 to 15k, too small of air intake and the bikes fall on there nose. likewise too big of air box and they never pressurize.
Dick, depending on the front end design of your car, make sure there is at least 5" if clearance between the bell mouth of the carb and the inside of your hood. if you want to run an under hood duct work, you can usually find a tremendous amount of air packed in front of the radiator. just mold your duct under the hood and run it forward to about 2" in front and over the top of the radiator. then seal off the sides of the duct so air doesn't bleed off and around the sides and still forces air through the radiator. this duct size can be about 1 1/2" tall and about 12" wide and won't cause any exterior body top end drag. the reason I sugest a bigger opening is so the car will pull off the line and make it to high gear. and putting the bigger duct within the existing body openings won't cause any aditional drag.
kr