Author Topic: Ratio Questions  (Read 14340 times)

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John Beckett

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Ratio Questions
« on: February 04, 2005, 07:41:00 AM »
With a Rod Stroke ratio:
 What is the perfect number? What is excessive? What actual problems can occur with a higher ratio? What happens by making the compression height of the piston say .5? longer than stock? If I try and run a smaller bore and longer stroke (to improve the R/S ratio) does this create bigger problems than the R/S ratio?
 
 John

Offline JackD

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2005, 09:59:00 AM »
It's a lot like asking "What shoes are most comfortable."
 The correct answer various with the application and won't get answered here.
 Find somebody that is doing it succesfully and get close to them.
 Then you can try small variables to suit and see if they work better for you.
"I would rather lose going fast enough to win than win going slow enough to lose."
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John Beckett

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2005, 11:46:00 AM »
That's why I posed the question. Perhaps someone else has already been down this road and may have some answers.
 
 JB

Offline Sumner

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2005, 03:30:00 PM »
Quote
If I try and run a smaller bore and longer stroke (to improve the R/S ratio) does this create bigger problems than the R/S ratio?
I barely know what I'm talking about, so take all of this with a grain of salt.
 
 First let's make sure we are talking about the same thing.  The ratio of crank stroke to rod length is usually called the rod ratio if that is what you are also talking about read on.
 
 With any set crank stroke you can have a wide varity of rod lengths.  So increasing the stroke and reducing the size of the bore is not the way to go to get a better rod ratio.  You want to reduce the stroke and increase the bore and the rod length.  A "shorter" stroke will let you have a longer rod in the same block.  By reducing the stroke, enlarging the bore and making the rods longer you benifit from a number of things. A larger bore means larger valves, less shrouding of the valves and more air flow and air flow is what is going to make hp and torque.  Now there are limitations to the maximum length of the rod for any application.  As the rod gets longer it has to move up into the piston further, which moves the pin further up into the ring pack.
 
 By lengthening the rods you have change the geometry of the rod angles in relation to the crank during the rotation of the crank.  The longer rod is going to mean that the piston hangs around TDC longer making the combustion more effecient.  This will mean more force on the rod/crank and more torque.  Also since the combustion is more efficient it reduces detonation, which means you can run a higher compression ratio, which adds yet more hp/torque.
 
 Take a look at THIS ARTICLE from Hot Rod that I have posted on my site.  It explains it a lot better.  By going from the stock sbc 350 with a 4.00 bore and 3.48 stroke with 5.7 rods and a rod ratio of 1.64 to a 400 block with a 4.155 bore and a 327 crank with a 3.25 stroke and Ford 6 cylinder 6.350 rods they ended up with a motor of still 350 cu. in.,but now had a rod ratio of about 1.9, up from the 1.64.
 
 What is impressive is this motor runs 11.0 compression ratio yet runs on 87 octane gas and puts out over 400 lb./ft. of torque from 2800 rpm to 5200 rpm with a max. hp of 413 and the torque maxed out at 440 lb/ft.  This is a street motor 350 and not an all out race motor.
 
 There are a lot of people who will debate rod ratios and if they will help, so this is just one opinion.  They also can help from less friction on the cylinder walls as the rods are not pushing the pistons into the walls as much as a short rod does.  At low rpm levels I doubt you would know the difference, but as the rpm goes up it sure can't hurt to work towards a higher rod ratio.  Almost all builders seem to agree that if possible run the longest rod you can.
 
 The one exception that I've read to all of this is a turbo motor where it might be better to "not" have the piston dwell at TDC.  Also blower motors make power way further down the piston stroke than a non-blown motor will as there is a lot more air/fuel burning and providing power.
 
 Don't forget also that stroking a motor gives you more power, but also increases the displacement.  Nothing wrong with that as long as you stay in your class.
 
 Hope this helps and remember this is a controversial subject and you have to do what you think is best.  Me I want to build a long rod motor for my truck when finances permit.
 
 c ya, Sum
 
  <small>[ February 04, 2005, 02:37 PM: Message edited by: 1FATGMC ]</small>

randydupree

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2005, 09:23:00 AM »
john,pick your bore and stroke.then get a piston with the pin moved up as high as you can without getting it into the rings,put your crank in and get a rod to connect the two,as long as it can be! right? i think you want to rpm the motor,short stroke,big bore..call J.wilson and ask him!

Offline ddahlgren

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2005, 12:11:00 PM »
It is impossible to discuss rod ratio without talking about cylinder heads and camshaft. As far as the dwell theory goes it is all urban ledgend if you do the math you will see that for the first ten degrees you are talking about a thou or so with a 3 inch stroke and going from a 5.5 rod to a 6.5 rod.. What it is all about is peak piston speed vs. mean piston speed. That is why high rpm engines use long rods, it reduces the peak piston speed. Armed with that knowledge you can plot it vs. cylinder head minimum cross section and camshaft profile. i further fail to see how you can generate more torque with a longer rod when in fact it has a poorer geometric relationship with the crankshaft for producing torque. IE. mechanical advantage. That is why a long rod engine is easier on the cylinder wall.. the detonation example comepletely escapes me as well. A big bore usually is more sensitive to octane than a small one.  i would suspect the nice small chamber has more benifit than the long rod does. A lot of hot rodders seem to stumble on a combination that does what they want and then make up the theory to along with what they found.
 SAE and MIT have a very good collection of books related to engine design, along with a copy of Mathcad or Mathmatica you will find out why it works. You might also find there is very little to invent as well it has all been explored a long time ago.
 Dave

John Beckett

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #6 on: February 06, 2005, 02:08:00 PM »
OK, if we narrow it down to your typical belly button SB Chevy:
 Max RPM 9,000.
 4" bore.
 Ported Dart Pro 1 heads w/wedge chambers for 4.03" bore, 227cc chambers.
 What cam to use?
 What piston dome?
 What R/S ratio?
 
 JB

Offline Sumner

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #7 on: February 06, 2005, 03:45:00 PM »
I'm keeping my mouth shut as evidently I'm just spreading "urban legend".
 
 c ya, Sum

Offline ddahlgren

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #8 on: February 06, 2005, 03:46:00 PM »
What minimum crossection of the head?
 You have the heads i assume and a set of dividers and vernier calipers..
 What compression ratio?If Bonneville probably around 14.5 or so.. as it is an endurance restictor engine.
 What stroke?

John Beckett

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #9 on: February 06, 2005, 03:58:00 PM »
The heads measure at the port opening 1.34 x 2.21.
 With small CID, 66cc chambers and big 18cc dome will still be difficult to get more than 10.4 to 1 compression.
 Stroke 2.57

Offline ddahlgren

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #10 on: February 06, 2005, 06:19:00 PM »
Then at that compression it is pointless..
 the minimum cross section is generally near the short turn radius where the head bolt is on the common wall for the two intake ports and less than the gasket size but by how much is another question. With a 6 inch rod and a normal 9.023 deck height SBC you still have a compression HT of 1.738" and no compression with heavy parts so what is the point?? Pick an engine that is closer to the displacement that makes some sense rather than spending  money on nothing. You will have a custom 1 off crank big chambers no compression a very long rod ratio.. What is the upside to all of this?
 Dave

Offline JackD

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #11 on: February 06, 2005, 06:46:00 PM »
Sooooo,what kind of shoe is everyone wearing ?
"I would rather lose going fast enough to win than win going slow enough to lose."
"That horrible smell is dirty feet being held to the fire"

Offline RICK

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #12 on: February 06, 2005, 11:26:00 PM »
I hate paying alot of money for shoes. Never had any luck with those custom/designer ones either.
   Sometimes "off the shelf" really means,"it's been tryed and it works". I always try to use the longest rod avalible, mainly to keep cylinder side loading to a minimum. But those other guys are correct. Not enough info for me to make a recomendation.Lift, duration, intake runner size,vehicle weight, gear ratio,your budget,etc,etc. The one thing i would recomend is the best bolts you can. I've had the best luck with 'L-19'
 "LOAFER" probably fits me best,,,,,the shoe I mean!
    good luck,RICK
It's not over, it's just harder.

Offline JackD

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #13 on: February 07, 2005, 12:03:00 AM »
Off the shelf may not work the best for you but it works the most and is a good place to start.
 Most foot problems begin with ill fitted shoes.
"I would rather lose going fast enough to win than win going slow enough to lose."
"That horrible smell is dirty feet being held to the fire"

Offline ddahlgren

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Re: Ratio Questions
« Reply #14 on: February 08, 2005, 02:44:00 AM »
Quote
 I'm keeping my mouth shut as evidently I'm just spreading "urban legend".
 
 
 Did you do the math?? and see the big difference in the amount of piston dwell at TDC??
 
 Dave