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Author Topic: Tubing Notchers and Benders??  (Read 30701 times)
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isiahstites
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« on: July 04, 2008, 04:52:16 PM »

What are you guys using for notchers? I am planning on building a new bike and am going to need a good bender and a notcher first. The notcher I have now is a POS. Are there any links you guys have to a notcher I could build rather than buy? Show me what you guys are using for notchers and benders. I will probably build a bender and buy a notcher unless someone has a good plan for a notcher.

Thanks,
Scott
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doug odom
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« Reply #1 on: July 04, 2008, 05:30:34 PM »

I have used the www.lowbucktools.com notcher for many years with good results. I do use the 4 inch grinder after I notch the tubing to get the best fit. I have built about 30 race cars with this notcher and never had to replace anything.
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John Burk
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« Reply #2 on: July 04, 2008, 05:38:27 PM »

Scott

The radiused end of a tube turned 90 degrees is 2 straight cuts . I do mine with my Portaband and dress with a 4" grinder .

John
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isiahstites
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« Reply #3 on: July 04, 2008, 05:57:34 PM »

Thanks for the link and suggestions. I have been using my cheap notcher and then dressing the notches up with a die grinder if needed. I want something that is going to make a precision notch for a very good fit. The low buck notcher I have seen before, I am not sure how it works, does it just cut the tube instead of drilling on it with a holesaw?? Is it kinda like a punch?

Scott
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hotschue
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« Reply #4 on: July 04, 2008, 06:41:37 PM »

Nice, easy and clean cuts.....Harbor Freight $50.....Bi-metal saws Home Depot... chrome moly cage....perfect fit every time..I was considering buying a high dollar notcher, glad I didn't.


* Sprite_build_5-23-08_001.jpg (352.47 KB, 1288x966 - viewed 714 times.)
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Udo Horn
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4-barrel Mike
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« Reply #5 on: July 04, 2008, 06:58:36 PM »

Hotschue:

This one?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42324



Make perfect joints for clean secure welds. Use with your electric drill or drill press. Precision settings from 0 to 60 in 1 increments.

Use with 1/2'' chuck
Accepts 1/2'' and 5/8'' threaded arbor hole saws
2'' pipe capacity
Requires 14'' clearance between chuck and table
Adjustable mounting bracket
All steel frame


Mike
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isiahstites
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« Reply #6 on: July 04, 2008, 07:08:36 PM »

Thats the one I have and it has all but expired.

Scott
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« Reply #7 on: July 04, 2008, 09:22:59 PM »

The Dave Williams Low Buck is a different breed from the jig-a-joint type notchers.Noneof those IMHOP-and I've used three or four - are rigid enough structurally for long  term use.

Plenty OK for a few builds, though.

 The Low Buck is more robust but doesn't do angles easily- I think the one I used in the late '70s might have been the prototype and Dave might have improved it by now.Dave had as big a market with corral builders as he did racers in those days. Norco, Ca IS horse country!
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hotschue
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« Reply #8 on: July 04, 2008, 09:50:13 PM »

Mike, thats the one.  I also had tohad to cut a larger tube than the unit is designed for.  The shank mount is bolted on and I put a shim washer under the mount to center the cutter.  Really easy to work with, although having a drill press helped keep everything steady.  One cutter head cut all of the fish mouths pictured.
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Udo Horn
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Grant Borman
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« Reply #9 on: July 04, 2008, 10:39:53 PM »

I have been using the JDsquared heavy duty tubing notcher and am a very happy customer.  When used with Starret hole saws you get a very precise combo.   If you keep the Starret holesaw lubed up it will last for many cuts in chromoly.

I also use a JDsquared model 3 bender at my personal shop an i enjoy it alot more than the old hosfeld (sp) we used at the chassis shop i worked at.  Is nice and sturdy and has an excellent fit and finish.

Cheers,

Grant B.

p.s. I have used that harbor freight notcher and i can't say i was very happy with it at all.  Had alot of slop in it and i wonder if it would even last through one chromoly cage. 
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hotschue
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« Reply #10 on: July 05, 2008, 09:10:13 AM »

Just a pic in use.  Lube everything, moderate to lite pressure on cutter,  takes about 30-45 sec. to make cut.


* Sprite_build_5-22-08_026.jpg (335.99 KB, 1288x966 - viewed 803 times.)
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Udo Horn
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isiahstites
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« Reply #11 on: July 05, 2008, 10:09:56 AM »

Mike, thats the one.  I also had tohad to cut a larger tube than the unit is designed for.  The shank mount is bolted on and I put a shim washer under the mount to center the cutter.  Really easy to work with, although having a drill press helped keep everything steady.  One cutter head cut all of the fish mouths pictured.

I use mine in a drill press as well and I to had to add a washer to the unit to center the cutter. Don't get me wrong it worked, but it just wasn't to my liking all that much, I felt like I was spending unecessary time with the unit to get it to work properly. Then I started feeling well I got what I paid for.

Scott
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manta22
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« Reply #12 on: July 06, 2008, 07:58:08 PM »

I bought a Harbor Freight tubing notcher and it works OK with good quality bi- metal hole saws. I use DeWalt saws but others are probably just as good. It isn't a high quality tool but I only need to make enough cuts to build my roll cage. Like another user I had to put washers under the three tube bolts fastening the tube holder to get it lined up correctly. Crummy but cheap-- two stars.
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #13 on: July 07, 2008, 01:12:19 PM »

..Probably belongs in "How To" but, I use the hole saw to cut a "donut" out of a sponge and leave it in the  saw. Soak them in oil and you have an auto-lube .    Jerry smiley
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« Reply #14 on: July 07, 2008, 02:02:14 PM »

I used a "Joint-Jigger" for several cars, it worked very well compared to some of the cheaper copies. I finally stepped up to this machine:

http://www.pro-tools.com/emn510.htm

I don't know if it's worth the extra initial cost, but it sure works nice.....
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