Author Topic: Milwaukee Midget  (Read 3269862 times)

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Offline Jack Gifford

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4830 on: March 06, 2015, 02:20:27 AM »
Envy = 2.43 R/S. The four-cylinder I'm building would need 9" rods to do that! :-o
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Offline jacksoni

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4831 on: March 06, 2015, 08:26:01 AM »
Why would you want a 2.4 R/S ratio when "everyone" knows that is too high........ :dhorse: :dhorse: :cheers: :cheers:
Jack Iliff
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Offline Milwaukee Midget

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4832 on: March 06, 2015, 10:30:08 AM »
Why would you want a 2.4 R/S ratio when "everyone" knows that is too high........ :dhorse: :dhorse: :cheers: :cheers:

Granted, it's not ideal, but there is a two prong rationale - or maybe it's just rationalization on my part.

1. I can't take as much off of the deck as I did with the Grenade without having to come up with a new cam drive system.  A deck too short would require more belt drive engineering, and yes, it could be done, but I don't want to try, and I'm disinclined to foist it off onto Fordboy - he's been way too generous with his time already.  The head is also going to require a bit of a skimming, so the end goal is to shorten the whole assembly just enough to assure all surfaces are straight and flat, raise the compression a scoach, and still maintain enough adjustment in the tensioner to prevent the belt from jettisoning itself.  The cam belt also drives the water pump, so it gets a little wonky.

2. But, as Mark has mentioned, this is not out of keeping with current F1 practice.  With the added control of adjustable intake and exhaust timing that the DOHC arrangement gives us, it'll be a lot easier to optimize than in an OHV arrangement.

We've made it work where it shouldn't have - this time, we're following a path where this geometry appears to be SOP.




« Last Edit: March 06, 2015, 01:13:59 PM by Milwaukee Midget »
"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  :roll:

Offline jacksoni

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4833 on: March 06, 2015, 01:33:53 PM »
Obviously we are constrained by other parts and you just have to use what you have to use. I will opine, that if F1 could physically make the rods shorter they would. As it is rod length is required or pistons hit the crank/counterweights or the piston itself would need to be much taller, thereby heavier etc. Although it is clear that there are aspects of engine performance (many but unspecified here) that rod ratio can affect, from a basic horsepower stand point, on a dyno, it is hard to tell any difference at least in peak numbers. A respected builder I know says a "connecting rod" is just that, connects the crank to the piston. Make the piston and ring package what you want and then connect to the crank, rod length be damned. He does not say it makes no difference, but that rod ratio is way down the list of stuff-To quote our respected Fordboy "Hey Mark, what's the ONE thing that really matters when building racing engines?     "EVERYTHING." - that you need to be working on, other things are more important. Perhaps Jack Gifford was being factious, I was with my comment about his post.

Anyway, Fordboy hasn't piped up about this topic (recently) so am just poking him with a stick to wake him up.  8-) he may well feel differently.
Jack Iliff
 G/BGS-250.235 1987
 G/GC- 193.550 2021
  G/FAlt- 193.934 2021 (196.033 best)
 G/GMS-182.144 2019

Offline fordboy628

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4834 on: March 06, 2015, 03:47:01 PM »
Envy = 2.43 R/S. The four-cylinder I'm building would need 9" rods to do that! :-o

Why would you want a 2.4 R/S ratio when "everyone" knows that is too high........ :dhorse: :dhorse: :cheers: :cheers:

Obviously we are constrained by other parts and you just have to use what you have to use. I will opine, that if F1 could physically make the rods shorter they would. As it is rod length is required or pistons hit the crank/counterweights or the piston itself would need to be much taller, thereby heavier etc. Although it is clear that there are aspects of engine performance (many but unspecified here) that rod ratio can affect, from a basic horsepower stand point, on a dyno, it is hard to tell any difference at least in peak numbers. A respected builder I know says a "connecting rod" is just that, connects the crank to the piston. Make the piston and ring package what you want and then connect to the crank, rod length be damned. He does not say it makes no difference, but that rod ratio is way down the list of stuff-To quote our respected Fordboy "Hey Mark, what's the ONE thing that really matters when building racing engines?     "EVERYTHING." - that you need to be working on, other things are more important. Perhaps Jack Gifford was being factious, I was with my comment about his post.

Anyway, Fordboy hasn't piped up about this topic (recently) so am just poking him with a stick to wake him up.  8-) he may well feel differently.

OK, the sick bear has been poked awake.

As I understand it, the reason F/1 has rod/stroke ratios so high is because it is a "packaging" issue.    Fully counterweighted cranks with short, very light, short pistons and the connecting link has to be 'X'.    Since everything else is "tuned" for that geometry, it can be made to work, especially in the rev ranges F/1 uses.

And it is the same with every other design parameter, something else can be "done" to help make it "work".     Since there is an almost infinite number of possibilities for geometries, flows, parts motions, etc, my basic design philosophy is this:

1)   I want to know what the design's limitations are from the outset, whatever they are.     I want to KNOW, not guess, since "packaging" and other issues are going to limit what can be done.   I am always keen to know airflow limitations, since the I/C engine is just an air pump.

2)   I rate combinations sort of loosely, since it turns out:  Everything is a compromise.    My labels are:   Best, better, poor.    Feel free to use my labels or create your own.

3)   During the planning/evaluation stage, (the part where no metal is cut) I want to identify which of the original manufacturer's design parameters I'm (more correctly my client) is stuck with.    This is the part where I want to eliminate usage of as many of the "poor" choices as I can.

4)   Since I don't like to "re-invent the wheel", I identify what I am locked into, and what I can "play with".     My goal is always to choose the "best" compromises for the design, something easier said than done.    Don't get me wrong, I'd love to have access to Jack Gifford's shop, or Jack Fox's shop, but my machining skills are more limited.    And besides, I think I'm much better at data analysis than machining.

So what?

Well, some of the things we are stuck with on this "N" engine build are:

not necessarily in any specific order . . . . . .

a)   Since Rover did NOT build a 1.0 litre we have to reduce displacement to remain in I/GT.    Whether or not H/GT is in the cards,  :? , not my call.

b)   Since I don't think Chris wants to pop for special, shorter cam drive belts, or pay ARP for special shorter fasteners,  block deck height is "fixed".   Although this could change if an unlimited megabucks sponsor could be found.    :roll:   And there may be other "undiscovered" reasons to retain block height, say room for the water pump . . .

c)   Bore diameter reduction does not appear to be an option to reduce displacement.    Since the valve spacing pattern is "fixed", there isn't much that can be gained.   And since there is likely an airflow penalty to boot, this appears to be a "poor" choice.     :-o

d)   Since the bore reduction won't work, we are forced to reduce stroke and increase connecting rod length, thereby raising R/S ratio.   Since the engine is not going to run F/1 rpms, other compromises will need to be implemented to keep peak torque and peak bhp in the rpm ranges required.

e)   Some compromise on cam profiles, cam LCA's will need to be done to balance out the R/S ratio.   Can't be avoided for the rev range to be used.

f)    Etc, etc . . . .

OK, now I really have a bad headache so I'm off for a nap.   Once I finish what I'm working on for the "N", I'll post it up.

I don't want to be critical of anybody else's choices or build plan.    This is just the way I do it now.     Things tend to work out better if you consider the possibilities, and then make the best or better choices for your build.    My results were good before, but have gotten better with enhanced planning.    I try really hard to avoid the stupid choices or combos, it helps.

Luck is such a fickle mistress.    Half the time she's not home, and you get the Joker . . . . . . .    Why do that if you can avoid it?
 :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Thinkyboy
Science, NOT Magic . . . .

I used to be a people person.  But people changed that relationship.

"There is nothing permanent except change."    Heraclitus

"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former."     Albert Einstein

Offline Koncretekid

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4835 on: March 06, 2015, 04:01:03 PM »


2)   I rate combinations sort of loosely, since it turns out:  Everything is a compromise.    My labels are:   Best, better, poor.    Feel free to use my labels or create your own.


Thinkyboy

I rate combinations as best, better, and worse.  Poor is not an option!
Tom
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

Offline Jack Gifford

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4836 on: March 07, 2015, 01:52:37 AM »
Only somewhat facetious. In my "narrow view"- an inline four cylinder race engine with a R/S ratio of infinity could achieve perfect primary balance. :cheers:
M/T Pontiac hemi guru
F/BFL 1-mile Loring record 2020

Offline Milwaukee Midget

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4837 on: March 07, 2015, 04:26:53 PM »
I'm very proud of my team manager, Nick Martin, and the company he founded, "The Pros Closet", which helped sponsor our efforts on the salt.

A graduate of the University of Wisconsin-Whitewater, and former team manager for the Trek Mountain Bike Team, he has built an international business in used bicycles and components, is very tech savvy, and is unquestionably a leader in "new path" business opportunities.

His recent letter to President Obama was singled out and published on the White House Blog, which I'd like to share with you here . . .

http://www.whitehouse.gov/blog/2015/03/04/why-good-trade-deals-matter-business-mine

 :cheers:





 
"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  :roll:

Offline manta22

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4838 on: March 07, 2015, 05:11:01 PM »
"Helping keep the Internet open and free, enabling online businesses to operate without unnecessary infrastructure costs"

Uh huh........

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Offline fordboy628

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4839 on: March 08, 2015, 01:17:48 PM »
Unnecessary infrastructure costs in other countries . . . .

The way we are forced to do so now.

I sell on ebay and I am prevented from doing just that by some un-equal trade regulations.

Just my 2 cents
Fordboy
Science, NOT Magic . . . .

I used to be a people person.  But people changed that relationship.

"There is nothing permanent except change."    Heraclitus

"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former."     Albert Einstein

Offline Milwaukee Midget

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4840 on: March 10, 2015, 11:19:14 PM »
Well, those plans of having the Bugeye on the road by Kate’s Birthday . . .  :|

I’ll blame it on my disinclination to hang out in the garage with a kerosene heater pumping CO into the atmosphere, but the weather has finally broke, I saw motorcycles on the road yesterday, and I’m now motivated.

But I have been making progress.

And cheers to Podunk (Indiangineering) who has made this about as close to a kit-car as is possible.  The steering shaft will need a little more work, but I’ve certainly got header clearance on the driver’s side . . .



And I’ve decided to keep the wide tires.  I’ve already got ‘em, and there’s nothing cheaper than what’s already in your garage . . .



I glassed up a bunch of holes in the dash, and simplified it with a Jeep CJ speedometer (85 mph, so when the officer asks if I know how fast I was going, I can honestly say “I have no idea”) which includes both a temp gauge and a fuel gauge, and turn signal indicators.  I’ll also hook up the oil light and the high beam indicator.  I left the hole for the tach, for which I’m intending to insert some ElCheapo Sun guts into the Smiths housing.  I’m also planning on using a switch plate from a Fender Telecaster for windshield wipers and headlights, and a “Rhythm – Treble” switch surround from a Les Paul for the high/low beams.  The dash and transmission tunnel will be covered with Fender Amplifier Tolex . . .



I had the seats recovered by Robert’s Upholstery in Walker’s Point, just up the street from where I work.  He kept it simple with a marine grade vinyl and proper piping. 

The shifter?  Well, carrying over the rock-n-roll theme will be an Audio-Technica Pro 4L microphone filled with epoxy for a shift knob.  I’m going to have to put a bit of a bend on the lever so I’m not shifting with my armpit, but the location won’t be too dissimilar to that of a Cobra . . .



And to continue the rock-n-roll theme to one more degree, and still in keeping with the classic British Roadster aesthetic, these are two handles off of an old road-going set of Altec Lansing Voice of the Theater speakers.  I’m thinking with 4 lacquered oak slats, I’ll have myself one hip luggage rack, sized to fit a guitar case, of course . . .


"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  :roll:

Offline fordboy628

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4841 on: March 16, 2015, 10:11:49 AM »
Crank(y) thoughts . . . . . .

midget,

Some thoughts, re: the big ticket, longest delivery item on the build list.

1)  Hub dimension modified to suit BMC trans/flywheel and necessary adaptor plate thickness.

2)  Retain standard pilot bushing layout to suit existing input shaft.

3)  De-stroked for 998/999cc's displacement.

4)  Rod journal diameter sized for a readily available high quality rod bearing, say Honda . . . .

5)  Crank drilled for "low pressure" oiling strategy.

6)  Crank oiling "prioritized" for:  Thrust oiling from 1 main journal.  Remaining main journals each feed the adjacent rod bearing as per #5.



Anything I missed?
 :cheers:
Fordboy

« Last Edit: March 16, 2015, 10:14:06 AM by fordboy628 »
Science, NOT Magic . . . .

I used to be a people person.  But people changed that relationship.

"There is nothing permanent except change."    Heraclitus

"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former."     Albert Einstein

Offline Milwaukee Midget

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4842 on: March 16, 2015, 10:51:03 AM »
Not much gets past you, Mark.

I've got to dig up the thrust bearings to get an accurate measure on the current flange depth - it's actually recessed from the plane of the back of the block, unlike the Midget, where it extends past the plane. 

With the thrust bearings out, I can tell you it's between .24 and .18 . . .

. . . but I think I can get a measurement a little closer by the end of the week!

As for today, we're looking at a projected temp of 68 degrees, I took a day off work, and I'll be banging on the Pom Rod.

And maybe, as Sparky so eloquently stated, a little bingeneering . . . :cheers:
"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  :roll:

Offline fordboy628

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4843 on: March 16, 2015, 11:00:23 AM »
Not much gets past you, Mark.

I've got to dig up the thrust bearings to get an accurate measure on the current flange depth - it's actually recessed from the plane of the back of the block, unlike the Midget, where it extends past the plane.  

With the thrust bearings out, I can tell you it's between .24 and .18 . . .

. . . but I think I can get a measurement a little closer by the end of the week!

As for today, we're looking at a projected temp of 68 degrees, I took a day off work, and I'll be banging on the Pom Rod.

And maybe, as Sparky so eloquently stated, a little bingeneering . . . :cheers:

Well, actually recessed is good.    :-)      Now we just add hub height to match up to the existing trans/etc.

The other way around would need a thick spacer plate to get things to fit up, and I'm already concerned about the space available . . . . .

Let's get all this figured out by the end of the week.

That will give you enough time to play at being "Irish" at McBob's tomorrow night . . . . . . .   :roll:

Meanwhile, I'll be sampling the new Leinie's seasonal   "Big Butt Doppelbock"  . . . :? . . .    Hope it doesn't make my a$$ look fat . . . . .

OOPS!!    Too late!!
 :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Fordboy
Science, NOT Magic . . . .

I used to be a people person.  But people changed that relationship.

"There is nothing permanent except change."    Heraclitus

"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former."     Albert Einstein

Offline Milwaukee Midget

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #4844 on: March 16, 2015, 12:29:48 PM »

Well, actually recessed is good.    :-)      Now we just add hub height to match up to the existing trans/etc.

The other way around would need a thick spacer plate to get things to fit up, and I'm already concerned about the space available . . . . .


Minimization of adapters is always key.

Case in point.  I deal with DJs all the time, who come in to rent amplifiers and speakers, and they've always got these stupid little "Radio Shack" cables with RCA to 1/4 phono to XLR to NL4 to cable adapters.

The problem is, anybody with a lap top and a shareware program can now be a "DJ".

They're trying to save money - just like a lot of racers with a Jeg's catalogue.

Now first off, when a DJ wants to rent an amplifier or speakers because they blew theirs up last weekend, that's a warning sign that they don't know what they're doing. 

They wonder why their amplifier stopped working, or why their speaker is cutting out.

Of course, having test equipment, I'll take their cables, check them for continuity, and as often as not, it's some $.99 piece of garbage in the signal path that is the problem.

I'll tell them, "This is junk".

And they'll say, as often as not, "I JUST BOUGHT IT!"

To which I say, "You just bought junk".

In those situations, I can usually supply them with the proper piece which minimizes any adapters - and usually it's just a case of soldering up a cable with the proper ends on it - and that will be eliminate all the monkey business, the problem is solved, and while they spent more money, the system is more reliable and often sounds better.  They walk away enlightened, and have fewer headaches on their gigs.

But for those who don't get it, I am aware that down that road lies madness, and until I can further make them understand the nature of their ignorance, I won't rent them a farkling thing.  I've got to many of my own things to fix.

And thus, I genuinely appreciate Mark's holistic approach to driveline development.  Because like in an audio chain, the fewer potential problems you interject into the process, the fewer you'll have to diagnose or compensate for at show time.

And I'm trying to stop doing "Stupid S#*t".
"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  :roll: