Milwaukee Midget
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« Reply #1260 on: June 04, 2012, 11:16:01 PM » |
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How about the inside of the steering rack? That's how Jaguar did it on the '92 XJS-R.  We should talk more.  Geo Oh, dear - If I'm beginning to think like a Jaguar engineer, maybe I should reconsider my fix . . . Yes, talk more, and drink more, too! 
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fordboy628
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« Reply #1261 on: June 05, 2012, 06:01:27 AM » |
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How about the inside of the steering rack? That's how Jaguar did it on the '92 XJS-R.  We should talk more.  Geo Oh, dear - If I'm beginning to think like a Jaguar engineer, maybe I should reconsider my fix . . . Yes, talk more, and drink more, too!  Shaft collars on the steering rack main tube, inside of the ball joint which connects to the "tie rod", is the time honored & traditional way to limit wheel and tire angularity on race cars using stock type steering racks. Works on everything from Formula Fords (Triumph Spitfire rack) to McClaren Can-Ams (E-type Jag rack I think). JUST ONE CAUTION, DO NOT DRILL INTO THE RACK MAIN TUBE!! VERY BAD IDEA!!  Fordboy
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"IF all you want is the skin off the cat, it really doesn't matter HOW you skin the cat." So many cats, so little time.......................
Does paying attention to all the "little details" matter? I dunno, but I think you should ask the guy who finishes second..................
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Milwaukee Midget
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« Reply #1262 on: June 05, 2012, 08:06:26 AM » |
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Here's what I went with - http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=34309Just didn't much feel like disassembling the front end this year.
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fordboy628
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« Reply #1263 on: June 05, 2012, 09:04:21 AM » |
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Perfect. I've seen rack main tubes break off after being drilled for "stop bolts" or locating pins. I'm sure the failure isn't fun at low speed..........  Fordboy
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"IF all you want is the skin off the cat, it really doesn't matter HOW you skin the cat." So many cats, so little time.......................
Does paying attention to all the "little details" matter? I dunno, but I think you should ask the guy who finishes second..................
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manta22
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« Reply #1264 on: June 05, 2012, 11:38:15 AM » |
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MM;
Thanks for the link to that Fastenal shaft collar.I looked everywhere for a shaft collar with a 13/16" ID and couldn't find any-- and there it is! I need a pair for locating my anti-roll bar so now I know where to get them.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Milwaukee Midget
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« Reply #1265 on: June 05, 2012, 12:42:30 PM » |
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Gosh, Neil - I'd have expected you to whip something up out of your extensive stocks of ultrararium NASA spec alloys you have lying around in your garage!  Happy to help.
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manta22
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« Reply #1266 on: June 05, 2012, 12:51:39 PM » |
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Unfortunately I'm out of round stock unobtanium. 
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Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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grumm441
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« Reply #1267 on: June 06, 2012, 03:43:07 AM » |
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I believe I have some cheesium stock here somewhere here and of course, some ultra light weight, Swiss cheesium. G
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I build it, Goggles tries his hardest to break it
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Milwaukee Midget
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« Reply #1268 on: June 06, 2012, 04:32:53 PM » |
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I believe I have some cheesium stock here somewhere here and of course, some ultra light weight, Swiss cheesium. G Elactoplated dairy metal.
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USFRAMONTE
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« Reply #1269 on: June 06, 2012, 05:27:03 PM » |
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I think all salt flats vehicles have a bit of swiss cheesium in them after running out there a couple of years!!
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Captthundarr
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« Reply #1270 on: June 06, 2012, 08:31:47 PM » |
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Down here at the coast (salt water) we have found the swiss cheesium is primarily formed in an alloy compisition that starts with opious amounts of concentrated sodium compound and water.....or spilled beer 
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Live,Laugh, Love / Jack Scratch Racing /ECTA Amy Hartman-Driver, Frank Hartman-everthing else. C/GALT 137.65 Ohio Mile
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Dr Goggles
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« Reply #1271 on: June 07, 2012, 06:48:26 PM » |
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Oh, dear - If I'm beginning to think like a Jaguar engineer, maybe I should reconsider my fix . . .
Were you waiting for me to say something?
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Milwaukee Midget
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If in doubt, it probably IS a mistake.
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« Reply #1272 on: June 07, 2012, 11:21:11 PM » |
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Oh, dear - If I'm beginning to think like a Jaguar engineer, maybe I should reconsider my fix . . .
Were you waiting for me to say something? After seeing the steering set up on YOUR Sprite?  Well, that was remarkably easy.  There was a tweak necessary on the driver’s side. The casting that holds the pinion has a cup shape on the outside. The original screws sent with the collars stuck out and hit on it, and I suspect they would have eventually cracked it, or at least compromised the casting. I took a pair of ¼ 28 beveled machine screws with a smaller hex, and ground them down. Now the collar clears the inside of the cup and hits flush with the inside of the casting, bottoming out flush.  I’m down to 1 ¼ turns lock-to-lock, but with an 80” wheelbase, I don’t think I want any more. My gymkhana days are over, and I don't have the guts to drive it like a roadster. Sent off the firebottle for recert, and ordered up a second one for the engine. Let the plumbing begin.
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Milwaukee Midget
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« Reply #1273 on: June 09, 2012, 11:53:51 PM » |
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Crank came back today - all shiny and polishy. Cleaned, brushed, cleaned, blown out, cleaned, rinsed, cleaned, wiped down, WD40ed, bagged and tagged.
Did I mention that I cleaned it? Oh, and I cleaned the bag, too.
Dropped off the block - taking .012 off, should yield a pop-up of ~ .008. Won't take the head in until I can do a quick mock up.
Dropped off the crank trigger wheel and mount with Fordboy last night for the snout mock-up he's putting together. There was this really cool oil pump he was positioning - I suspect I'm being encouraged, as a dry sump pan for a Spridget was also in plain view.
Made arrangements to drop the car off at a chassis builder north of town in two weeks. Seems my 1/2 inch tubular gussets have been deemed unsuitable. I'll have him re-weld the seat belt attachment, install the net and notch the front crossmember to clear the Gilmer setup. That will coincide with my annual 20-day crunch of double shifts and stupid overtime. If things go according to plan, I should be able to pick it up on day 21 and jump back at it with both feet.
We've got a pretty good handle on what the cam should be. Just waiting for the blank.
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manta22
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« Reply #1274 on: June 10, 2012, 12:40:33 AM » |
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MM;
Check to see that your crank grinder chamfered the oil holes in the crank and that they are 'fingernail smooth". Any burrs left there will score your bearings.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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