Milwaukee Midget

[Milwaukee Midget]

I'd happily comment but I'm pretty sure after SSS's cuss-mangulator had had it's way with what I wrote it wouldn't make very much sense.....

The most annoying type of advice you can ever get is " try this , if that doesn't work then you may like to try this...." invariably trying one way excludes the possibility of trying it the other way ....because you've already wrecked it......

It does cause one to proceed with caution.  I’m becoming keenly aware that any production based race engine is going to require some custom fitment of components.  As for the cuss-mangulator - don't worry, I suspect we're reading each others minds.

It sure wouldn't bother me to radius those sharp corners on the pedestals. I'd leave the base of the pedestal full size. Pete

Still might have to clear the pedestal nut.  I’d use allens head bolts, but two of these studs are what hold the valve cover in place.  Good news is that the pushrod holes line up with the rocker adjuster screws – a good thing, because the collars in the intake pushrod holes, installed to permit an overbore of the intake port, preclude much reaming of these holes.

Time for some cipherin’.  I’m not making another move until I get my block back, my cam in, and I can look at this entire assembly as a unit.

More variables, please . . .

[Peter Jack]

Would 12 point nuts with the built in washer surface similar to those used for headers solve that problem? I'm sure they'd take the required torque.

I'm rather familiar with those old BMC engines as that's where I started out in the late fifties, early sixties. While it's been a while there seems to be a lot of that stuff stays fresh in my memory. In the case of old British machinery I'm not sure whether that's good or bad.

Pete

[Rob]

My money's on linishing the top of the post rather than the rocker, it's not doing much out there other than resisting crushing by the nut.

It's been a long time between BMC products but could you not use a piece of hex bar with the lower section turned round and to a smaller OD to clear the rocker? Assuming enough vertical clearance, a grub screw into the top will lock it for you.

The studs for the rocker cover could easily be worked into this setup, I say easily becasue I'm about 15,00 miles away and it looks simple from where I'm sitting  

On another (much lighter) note, I found this diagram online that should help with the Lucas electricals. It seems pretty faithful to the original to me.



Full size image here for the curious.
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/Dwizdofoz/Salt%20Stuff/Lucas_circuit_diagram.jpg

Cheers,
Rob

[Milwaukee Midget]

Would 12 point nuts with the built in washer surface similar to those used for headers solve that problem? I'm sure they'd take the required torque.
Pete

Thanks, PJ -

GOOD POINT! That's what's recommended when converting over to an eleven bolt head - so it clears the valve cover. Same idea - different application.

Bring on the variables!

And Rob, you can be my point man on the electricals.  I see you've been plunderin' the vaults at Lord Lucas' dark - VERY DARK - castle.

[Rob]

And Rob, you can be my point man on the electricals.  I see you've been plunderin' the vaults at Lord Lucas' dark - VERY DARK - castle.

More like re-living nightmares. I remember carrying a piece of rag specifically to hang down over the Mini grill when it rained.

Cheers,
Rob

[Milwaukee Midget]

Quick update - the shop was unsure as to which way the cam bearings were supposed to be pressed in, otherwise I would have had the block home tonight.  They're doing a bit of research, and I sent them a photo of the cam.  Better to know than to guess.

The machine work looks really nice, the rods are finally fitted to the pistons (I brought them home tonight), and I expect this Friday night will be spent mocking up the valvetrain with the head and cam in place.

Hmmmm . . . pushrods . . . reground cam . . . skimmed block . . . aftermarket roller rockers . . . custom head 

A warm welcome awaits me in the magical world of variables and stacked tolerances.

[Geo]

Chris,

It's late, rough day at work, I  need something else to think about... British auto racing builds is a good subject 

Have you found the limits of the arc the rockers will travel without interference and checked the cam lift to determine the arc is less than the movement to rocker/pedestal contact?  Then see if the roller will stay centered on the valve through the needed arc.  Then see where the valve opening  is for this arc. (I know earlier you showed the valve staying open) Where I am going is... perhaps the pedestals are too short.

Of course this is all well thought out and I am more of an expert on British machines tonight because I had Newcastle beer! 

Geo

[Milwaukee Midget]

Of course this is all well thought out and I am more of an expert on British machines tonight because I had Newcastle beer! 

Geo

In my garage, that's called "assembly lube".
Missed getting to the shop to pick up the block tonight - going to have to be Saturday morning.

Where I am going is... perhaps the pedestals are too short.

I'll pay attention to that - thanks, Geo.

There are readily available pedestal spacers for these through MiniMania, but they're intended for stock pedestals - I'd probably have to have some made up.  I worked in a machine shop for a short time, back when I had my first MGB, and it sure was nice to hang around after hours and whip up parts rather than having to have everything sourced.

I'd be a bit reluctant to do this, because the pedestals are mounted on the head studs, and I'm a bit queasy about making the studs longer between the block and the nuts.  The pedestal clamps half of the head.  I also need to keep the valvetrain stable.   

Let's see what I see this weekend. 

[Milwaukee Midget]

NEWS FLASH -

I just received confirmation from a supplier in the northern woods of Upper Michigan that a highly secretive prototype high performance device, designed specifically for antiquated, small British racing engines, has been successfully produced in his newly acquired shop. 

I've also been told that it's ready to ship.

Details to follow . . .

[Milwaukee Midget]

The adventure continues . . .

First, the good news – the block is back, it mics up, and it sure looks a lot nicer than it did two months ago.



I still need to put the valves back in to confirm the arc of the rockers, but indications are on the valves that clear the pedestals, that with stock pushrods, it should work well.

Yay!

And now for the continuing frustration with the rocker assembly –

Those rockers are very purdy for that old cast iron clunker . . .
Stan

Stan, purdy is in the eye of the beholder.

One of the really screwed up design features of the BMC A series engine is that 4 of the head studs are used to help locate the rocker pedestals.  This creates a clearance problem for the washer –



And even the standard nut, sans washer –



The pedestals are aluminum, so methinks washers are required.

I’ve got shims for the shaft on order - .010 – to keep the sides of the rocker from rubbing against the pedestal, and that will help a tad.  Peter Jack’s earlier thought on the pedestal nut – using a 5/16 12 point, is probably the way I’ll go for the pedestal stud.  I’m hoping ARP might have a 3/8 fine thread 12 point with a base no larger than 5/8 for the head-pedestal nut, and hopefully corresponding washers.

Did I mention that the stud holes are off center a tad?

Off to visit Mrs. Midget’s Mom.

[Milwaukee Midget]

Problem half way solved.  ARP 12 points - Thanks, Peter Jack.  Clears the side of the pedestal, even without the shims, and I get a better quality of nut out of the deal.   Also gives me a bit more room on the front to shave the pedestal to clear the dog leg on the rocker -



Ever wonder what the "G" in "MG" stands for?

NEWS FLASH -

I just received confirmation from a supplier in the northern woods of Upper Michigan that a highly secretive prototype high performance device, designed specifically for antiquated, small British racing engines, has been successfully produced in his newly acquired shop. 

I've also been told that it's ready to ship.

Details to follow . . .

Developed to my exacting standards, and expertly produced by the industrious folks at Kudos Laser Engraving in Michigan's Upper Peninsula -


Always Pimpin' the Peninsula, Slim and Nancy await your orders!  Thanks again!

[4-barrel Mike]

Lookin' good!

Mike

[Peter Jack]

Glad they worked out. I've solved a lot of problems over the years by brain storming with others. This forum allows us to use the same procedure worldwide rather than a small group over coffee or booze. I've also found that the coffee is usually more productive than the booze!

Pete

[Peter Jack]

Looking back at the photos, you may want to move that plate to the other side to hide the ding. That's assuming that you're not already hiding a larger one.

Pete

[Seldom Seen Slim]

I wouldn't be surprised if we could make another one for the other side.  What'd you like it to say - "British" to go with "Grenade"?