Phil @ APT's plan seems sensible about the valves. Equalizing the valve face to head face dimension is the correct way to go to balance cc's/cyl. If this is not done, you are just chasing your tail on C/ratio per cyl & valve to piston clr per cyl. Its' an important part of "blueprinting" often ignored. Valve inner & outer springs need to be checked separately at a checking height. Springs can then be matched into pairs to equalize pressures. Stronger spring pairs should be placed on the exhaust valves.
What is the weight savings per retainer in grams/dollar? Steel Vs. Titanium Vs. Aluminum? I have some steel & alloy retainers you can have for free (well for beer....) My guess is that the Titanium retainers sound sexy but have little benefit in weight reduction over the total mass of the valve train. Also came across some NOS Isky valve springs & Isky pushrods, all still in the package, whilst on my BMC snipe hunt. Let's see if anything is suitable.
Just recalled: Don't fabricate bungs for EGT probes, use shaft collars (of the proper I.D. .25" is typical) with a set screw thread to fasten probes in to place. Collars can be welded/brazed to the header tubes, in a location that does not interfere with inlet manifolds, etc. A good hardware store or McMaster-Carr has these.
Do you have records or a chart of valve to piston clearance from 20 degrees BTDC(exhaust) to 20 degrees ATDC (inlet)?? Typically the closet point is going to be around 8 degrees before/after for ex/inlet, but of course that depends on where the cam is timed. And the scatter pattern timing adds a new twist (pun intended) to these calculations. If nothing else, having this info will help you to decide where you might have to time the cam.
If you are going to have the engine out of the chassis, I will help you chart & graph this to make an intelligent choice.
Also, we spoke on the phone about checking engine ignition timing off the flywheel Vs. the damper. Reasons being:
1] Flywheel has larger diameter/circumference for more accurate markings.
2] Flywheel is ridgidly attached to crankshaft.
3] Outer ring of damper can (and does) move about @ rpm & is smaller.
4] Damper/front cover is in a spot that is difficult to view/access.
5] Photo you posted of pulling the damper by tensioning on the outer ring scared the hell out of me. Pull only on the center hub with a smaller steering wheel
puller, using bolts into the center hub.
The drawback to this method is that a slot must be placed in the bellhousing (if no other opening is convenient) and marks made on the flywheel for reference. (Does your sanctioning body allow openings in the bellhousing??) BUT, slot and marks DO NOT HAVE TO BE VERTICAL.
They can be placed wherever you wish for convenience.
Will post what Weber bits I have later today.
A. Graham Bell is one of my favorite authors, although some stuff is probably a bit out of date.
I have discarded the anti-gravitational accessories from my Bat Tool belt essentials. On December 21, 2012 when the earth's gravitational field goes awry (as the Mayans have predicted
) I want my fat white posterior glued to the surface of the planet. I have therefore replaced all the tools with squeeze bottles of condiments (mayo & 3 types of mustard) while still leaving room for 3 bottles of microbrew. That is my plan & I'm sticking to it!!!!