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Author Topic: Milwaukee Midget  (Read 1885328 times)

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Offline hoffman900

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7095 on: April 24, 2018, 12:27:17 AM »
Might consider rubber elbows in place of the straights, canting the throttle bodies upward, adding some length and making inlet horns/air filter possible?

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/30-silicone-elbow/?osCsid=930e9ab51f751a6f110a4ca55376c17d

Hmmmm . . . might actually be easier than I anticipated.  :roll:

Mark, do we have an ideal intake length determined?  I haven't been able to get Pipemax working since I refurbished my laptop.

Email Larry Meaux, he's super responsive to issues like that. He also has a private forum with some cool information on it. Not high traffic, but lots of quality.

Some of the modern motocross bikes bend the port a little into the airbox via the boot, but nothing like you're showing. They're also right around 2.3hp/ci from the factory with no assistance exhaust scavenging to speak of.


Offline handyguy

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7096 on: April 24, 2018, 03:37:37 AM »
I'm using  VELO STAK air horns from Canada .  They are S/U 1 1/4" throat . They have golf ball dimples at intake curve , composite material so modifying is easy .  STEVE   PICS  soon..

Offline Milwaukee Midget

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7097 on: April 29, 2018, 02:25:45 PM »
I went to the Jefferson car show and swap meet yesterday.  This had been on the agenda since last year, when a saw a seller of custom aluminum coolant tanks, one of which I need.

He wasn't there this year, so I'll figure out something else - probably eBay.

But what I did score was this cute little Hobart wire feed spitfire welder in need of some repair.

I'll be working on engine mounts this week, and while there is no way I'll trust my own welding to holding the engine in place, I have no issue in forming up the parts and tacking them up, and then getting them to somebody with real welding skills.

I had checked around into renting a welder for this end of the project.  Two days, $150.00.

Conversely, the Hobart had a kink in the feed line about 2 feet in, and I got to thinking, heck, that leaves 6 foot of usable feed cable.

Trimmed it back, cleaned it up, ran some tests - and I now own a functioning welder again.  Feeds a lot smoother than the Lincoln I used to own, I've got $100.00 and 4 hours in it, and the generator will power it in an emergency.

Now, to develop some skills . . .
"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  :roll:

We are NOT rebuilding . . . We are reloading.

GOD SAVE MG - The Queen can take care of herself!

Offline Rex Schimmer

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7098 on: April 29, 2018, 10:35:07 PM »
Chris,
Sign on to Jody's weldingtipsandtricks.com. He does very good demos on welding lots of TIG and MIG. Pretty much a new one each week and worth the watch.

Rex
Rex

Not much matters and the rest doesn't matter at all.

Offline Milwaukee Midget

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7099 on: April 30, 2018, 02:49:53 PM »
Thanks, Rex -

Monkeyed around with it Saturday night, then I pulled up this video -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=8&v=KzSNpsLT40Q

Seeing as I'm using flux core, I think I now know why I'm getting a lot of splatter.

I'll be checking polarity tonight.  Ordered some steel for pickup after work.  Off tomorrow and Wednesday.

Remind me to move the lacquer thinner away from my work area . . .  :wink:
"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  :roll:

We are NOT rebuilding . . . We are reloading.

GOD SAVE MG - The Queen can take care of herself!

Offline jdincau

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7100 on: April 30, 2018, 03:29:19 PM »

Remind me to move the lacquer thinner away from my work area . . .  :wink:
And the rags too, don't ask!
Unless it's crazy, ambitious and delusional, it's not worth our time!

Offline Ron Gibson

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7101 on: April 30, 2018, 06:09:56 PM »
If you smell cloth burning, STOP and put yourself out. :-D :-D :-D

Ron
Life is an abrasive. Whether you get ground away or polished to a shine depends on what you are made of.

Offline fordboy628

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7102 on: May 01, 2018, 10:56:51 AM »
midget,

Re:  Marking the engine mounting bolt positions . . . . . .

Machinists use Heimann transfer screws or Spellmaco spotters, hardened, threaded centering devices.   See McMaster-Carr, Grainger, Amazon, or used on ebay.

You can also measure and do an accurate layout by hand, as you have suggested.

I have also "fabricated" an "emergency" or "one time" use threaded center by using a bolt of the proper thread.    Grade 8, or better yet an "Allen bolt", works better than a "softer" grade fastener.    Remove the head and shorten appropriately, and cut a centered point using a lathe.    OR, in a pinch you can chuck the shortened bolt in a high speed drill and grind a point with a bench grinder or even a belt sander.    Somewhat neanderthal, but it beats a bad layout or guessing.

Specialty spotting devices have a way to adjust depth of the device easily, unlike a fabricated piece, perhaps easing the fabrication process.

I have some metric sized spotter sets, 10mm x 1.5 and 8mm x 1.25, as well as other smaller sizes.    You are welcome to borrow them if you wish.    You are on your own if you need larger sizes.     Sorry I can't drive up, Honda is in the shop.

Sorry to be MIA, between a rock and a hard place.     More later . . . . .

 :cheers:
Git'erdoneboy
I used to be a people person.  But people changed that relationship.

"There is nothing permanent except change."    Heraclitus

"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former."     Albert Einstein

Offline fordboy628

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7103 on: May 01, 2018, 11:07:52 AM »

If you smell cloth burning, STOP and put yourself out. :-D :-D :-D

Ron


Even though I have made an unintentional attempt at "self-immolation" a couple of times, I DO NOT recommend it . . . . . . .
When a potentially "flammable" welding situation exists, a vigilant helper is worth their weight in "gold".     I'm not enthusiastic about a "vacation" in the burn ward . . . . . . . .


On the other hand, according to "Curly"    "A hot stake (sic) is always better than a cold chop."

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9mdcKzlQgw

 :cheers:
Stoogesforeverboy
« Last Edit: May 01, 2018, 12:03:21 PM by fordboy628 »
I used to be a people person.  But people changed that relationship.

"There is nothing permanent except change."    Heraclitus

"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former."     Albert Einstein

Offline fordboy628

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7104 on: May 01, 2018, 02:19:17 PM »
Holy Crap Batman!

Shheeesh . . . . . I duck out for a couple of hours, and look what happens . . . . . . .





 :dhorse: :dhorse: :dhorse:
MyasswouldlookgiganticinRobin'stightsboy     :roll:
« Last Edit: May 01, 2018, 02:27:25 PM by fordboy628 »
I used to be a people person.  But people changed that relationship.

"There is nothing permanent except change."    Heraclitus

"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former."     Albert Einstein

Offline Milwaukee Midget

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7105 on: May 02, 2018, 02:47:54 AM »
We'll se how this works.

Took today and tomorrow off - hopefully I'll have the motor mounts tacked up by this time tomorrow.

There are 4 10mm hardened bolts holding a piece of 3/16 plate to the block on either side of the #1 cylinder.  These bolts were originally used for accessory drives and motor mounts in the transverse configuration.

I've extended the plate back toward the #2 cylinder - this is where my recently acquired SBC solid engine mount will get tacked into place.

The 1 1/2 x 2 1/2 steel uprights will get tacked up on the steel angle atop of the frame.  Once located, I'll drill through the frame rail and tack in some 3/4 .120 steel tubing in the frame rail to prevent crush.  1/2' bolts through the frame.

Still have to cut and bevel the uprights and drill them for tubing as well, but for a guy with nothing more than a jig saw, a 3/8 drill and a grinder with a cut-off wheel, I'm thinking this is starting to look okay.


Right motor mount by Chris Conrad, on Flickr

Left motor mount by Chris Conrad, on Flickr
« Last Edit: May 02, 2018, 02:49:43 AM by Milwaukee Midget »
"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  :roll:

We are NOT rebuilding . . . We are reloading.

GOD SAVE MG - The Queen can take care of herself!

Offline dannyw

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7106 on: May 02, 2018, 03:30:04 AM »
On my first Bugeye engine swap, a Volvo B16B done in 1963, I was advised to do a solid mount, welded in right where you are locating yours. I did not do any doublers, and within a few months of street driving, the mount cracked the square frame tube all the way around on one side, and was well on its way on the other.
With doublers welded in, and a standard Volvo front rubber mount built in, the problem was solved.  Why I followed the bum advice, I can't say. 

I think with the doublers and thru spacers, you will be fine, especially given the few miles likely for your car.  It does bring up the problems of trying to place loads into a unit body where they were not provided for in the original design.  But why a solid mount?  Just curious and always trying to learn.

Dan

Offline forker

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7107 on: May 02, 2018, 07:42:25 AM »
As usual, this looks completely convincing.

The driver-side view looks a bit snug for an exhaust though; insulated footwell panels, anyone..? Are you allowed to exit the exhaust through the bonnet or wing?

You're going to close the open channels left where the old motor mounts were cut out and put a couple of transverse fillets in to stiffen the pillar mounts at the point where they attach to the chassis rails, I take it, in addition to the bolt-load tubes internal to the chassis rails..? It's a light engine and not got 911 power but its' mounts are a way off the rails now, you're solid-mount so no attenuation, K vibration was always a bit of an issue since it lacks the reassuring mass of the A and those bits of chassis rail that aren't there now were designed for 50hp when steel was expensive.

It would surely be annoying if it fell over. Maybe in ~7 miles that isn't an issue.

F

Offline Milwaukee Midget

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7108 on: May 02, 2018, 03:08:13 PM »
Chatted with Mark this morning.

There are not a lot of really GOOD options for installing this, but what we are going to do is cheat the mount forward about and inch and incorporate one of the ears off of the motor mount to bolt through the plate and directly into the block.  It still leaves the rest of the mount somewhat unsupported, sans the fact that is will be welded to the 3/16 plate that's held in place by 4 10 mm bolts, but then we're talking about a steel sandwich 7/16' thick in the unsupported area.

I'll need to tack a blind nut to the inside of the upright to achieve all of this.

Additionally, after a good night's sleep, I woke up with the idea of also incorporating some horizontal cross tubes through the chassis to further stabilize angle being bolted to the frame laterally.

As to why I'm using solid mounts - well, they were available pre-made, but more importantly, this will make dropping the engine in the dyno the bay a snap.  Sometimes, I can think ahead.

I think it has weak spots, but given that the engine will only be cranking out ~135 hp and weighs less than the engine it replaces, I'm not too worried.

Headers will have to be routed over the steering shaft.  A pity this isn't Right Hand Drive.

It would surely be annoying if it fell over. Maybe in ~7 miles that isn't an issue.

F
 

Not nearly as annoying as not getting this done.  100 days, boys and girls . . .
« Last Edit: May 02, 2018, 03:10:20 PM by Milwaukee Midget »
"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  :roll:

We are NOT rebuilding . . . We are reloading.

GOD SAVE MG - The Queen can take care of herself!

Offline Rex Schimmer

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Re: Milwaukee Midget
« Reply #7109 on: May 02, 2018, 04:31:02 PM »
Chris,
It ain't the horse power it's the harmonics. I4 engines like to shake and place like the "double oot to thin" original frame rail may not like it. I am a big supporter of the doubler idea.

Rex
Rex

Not much matters and the rest doesn't matter at all.