Mid- Engine Modified Sports

[tauruck]

That's a pro job there Neil.
They do "make" some good stuff in the old USA.

[wobblywalrus]

That red and yellow gives a southwest flavor to the car.  They are cheerful colors.

[manta22]

More cheerful colors, WW.

I placed my battery in the required box and padded it with slabs of polyethylene foam to cushion it from vibration. It is a closed-cell foam so it doesn't absorb liquid. I added a blue poly rope around the battery so I can use it as a grab handle to easily lift the battery out of its box. It is the biggest battery Costco had that would fit into this box.

The box is now placed into its fixture and clamped into place in the passenger's foot well. I still need to install a few more cover bolts.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[tauruck]

That's a really nice box Neil.

Whenever I post pics on my build I get good advice from the guys that KNOW.

Is there a cover that fits between the box and gas pedal?.

Thanks.

[manta22]

I hadn't thought of putting a panel there but now that you mentioned it, it sounds like a good idea. Thanks, Mike.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[manta22]

All the wiring in the instrument panel, switch and circuit breaker panel, and to the fans is now finished and I also put in wiring that extends back to the ignition box and starter, etc. but I won't connect those until the engine is in place. The wire lengths must be determined before I cut them to fit. Some braided sleeving made that wire bundle look neater.

I removed the left fiberglass side pod today and installed the release cable in the firebottle manual actuator head. I also routed the automatic firebottle hose into the engine compartment so I can aim it at the headers & oil pan per the rule book.

I've decided to cut a panel in the side pod so it can be removed to gain access to the two firebottles and dry sump oil tank as well as the coolant lines running between the engine and radiator. Tomorrow I should get the panel cut out and then decide whether I'll hinge it or make it completely removable as well as whether I'll use Dzus fasteners or some Hartwell trigger latches.

With all the thousands of rivets I have, wouldn't you know it- I had to order some longer Avex rivets for my side pod to chassis attachment. The ones I had were just a wee bit too short. Arrrggghhh. Aircraft Spruce just got an order for 250 rivets.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[Glen]

Neil, I noticed the bracket by the pedal is square edged. Don Vesco told me years ago to eliminate all sharp and square things with padding. Said while flopping around inside the cockpit those are the things that can really hurt you. 

[manta22]

Good advice, Glen. It was also recommended to put a panel between there and the driver. I'll do one or the other-- thanks.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[manta22]

Today was a fairly productive day. I marked the access panel cut-out on the left fiberglass side pod cover with blue tape, removed it from the chassis and cut out the panel. I drilled two starting holes in the bottom side to insert a "body saw" (pneumatic HF tool) and cut two radiused corners and then realized that the blade was too dull to cut much more. A search turned up no spare blades so I switched to a fine-tooth (32 TPI) saber saw for the straight cuts. I had to revert to the body saw to cut the two other corners since the saber saw wouldn't turn a tight radius.

As I had it up on sawhorses anyway, I sanded the cut edges smooth and then fabricated a bottom air skirt for that side (driver's side) from 1" x 0.065" 7075-T6 aluminum angle. The pieces I had were all too short so I had to make it in two pieces with a splice panel made from the same stuff. It was necessary to trim both legs shorter and put a small radius on the outside edge so the splice would lay flat The angle is made with an inside radius, not a sharp edge. I'll shoot zinc chromate primer later when I do the skirt for the passenger side.

I'll post a few pictures of the skirt and how it will be fastened to the chassis. The fiberglass will be sandwiched between the skirt and the chassis brackets.

Next will be deciding on how I'll fasten the access panel to the side pod fiberglass. Among other things, this panel will allow inspectors to check the fire bottle certs, etc.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[manta22]

Here is the result. The skirt actually mounts on the outside of the fiberglass-- this is just a trial fit.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[tauruck]

Hi Neil, When cutting Glass with a reciprocating saw you need to improvise.
After 30 years of trial and error (not all, the early years) I've found that a hacksaw blade
works best. 18T Starrett Red or (Green Stripe if you can get it).

The finer tooth stuff wears out in no time. I grind the backside of the blade to a taper so it goes around tight corners.
I'll leave it full size for the straight bits and try keep the extended length to 2" for safety.

You did a neat job there as always. I love it when you post pics.

[Milwaukee Midget]

I've been watching your finishing assembly, and your electrical work.  

It's given me pause for thought as I've been trying to wire the Bugeye.

You've demonstrated a standard here that annoyingly lofty.

So now I find myself asking, "W.W.N.D?" 

Thanks for the inspiration, Neil!  

[manta22]

Mike;

Thank you for those suggestions. Your vast composite experience puts you in my "guru" category.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[manta22]

Aw shucks, Chris. Now you've made me blush.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[tauruck]

Aw shucks, Chris. Now you've made me blush.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

He's right on the money Neil.
You've set the mark HIGH!!!!!.
I want that quality or bust.