Author Topic: Removing front disc brakes  (Read 2393 times)

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Offline Clay Pitkin

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Removing front disc brakes
« on: June 03, 2008, 10:50:22 PM »
I have removed the front disc brakes on my car, now all that I have connected is the rear drums. Do I need to do anything special to get the rear brakes to work besides bleeding the lines etc?

TIA
Clay
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Offline Stainless1

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Re: Removing front disc brakes
« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2008, 11:27:45 PM »
Yes, don't mash on them at speed.  If you are doing rears only, your best bet is brakes are used when you don't want to roll any more or if you need to stop during a tow in the pits.  Lots of LSR cars have rear semi-useless brakes and rely on parachutes for primary stopping from speed
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O

Offline 38Chevy454

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Re: Removing front disc brakes
« Reply #2 on: June 04, 2008, 12:17:02 AM »
I assume you changed to a single reservoir master cylinderwhich is really what you need to do.  You can eliminate the proportioning valve.  The stock drum brakes will overheat quick if you use them for primary braking as Stainless said.
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Offline ol38y

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Re: Removing front disc brakes
« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2008, 11:17:35 AM »
Clay,

What speeds will you be running? Maybe with that you can get more input here.  :?
Larry Cason
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Offline Clay Pitkin

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Re: Removing front disc brakes
« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2008, 12:23:26 PM »
We have gone as fast as 140 MPH, with a turbo, we were hoping for 160 but????? I do have a parachute for the car, its never been hooked up but I do have one.

Just using the rear brakes, is the problem they over heat real easy? Also another individual told me that just using the rears, the car has a tendancy of the rear end trying to come around is this true?

TIA
Clay
« Last Edit: June 04, 2008, 12:29:22 PM by Clay Pitkin »
Those who said it could not be done, should not stand in the way of those who are already doing it!

Offline Stainless1

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Re: Removing front disc brakes
« Reply #5 on: June 04, 2008, 12:41:11 PM »
if you lock them up yes, that is why I said
Yes, don't mash on them at speed.  If you are doing rears only, your best bet is brakes are used when you don't want to roll any more or if you need to stop during a tow in the pits.  Lots of LSR cars have rear semi-useless brakes and rely on parachutes for primary stopping from speed

Downshifting is used as well, just don't make hard fast corrections while rolling at high speed.  Your chute might be effective at 140, but probably just wear it out dragging it.  Slowing down to course clearing speeds should easily happen within a mile without the brakes or chute. 
Use the brakes wisely.
Be safe out there, see ya on the salt
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O