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Author Topic: Simpler Subject?? Paint  (Read 12236 times)
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Seldom Seen Slim
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« Reply #15 on: July 15, 2008, 05:01:48 PM »

"I just didn't want to go to the salt in primer only."

Well, before you go and spend a lot of time painting, remember the success that Tom Bryant had in the 216 car -- flat black and primer only, for a bunch of years, and a good number of folks into the 2 Club.  Maybe there's more to primer than you realized.
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Jon E. Wennerberg
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« Reply #16 on: July 15, 2008, 06:01:13 PM »

 Dynoroom, It all depends on the product. Call me and I'll give you some pointers.
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« Reply #17 on: February 02, 2009, 10:38:04 AM »

Several months ago I asked of an easy way to remove mill scale from tubing. Well I think I found one. It is called Rust Blast manufactured by KBS Coatings.(www.KBSCoatings.com). After experimenting I found that soaking a piece of undershirt in the Rust Blaster and then wringing out the cloth until wet but not dripping.
Wrap the cloth around the tubing and smooth out any wrinkles or air bubbles. Being frugal I then wrapped the cloth in plastic wrap and waited about an hour. Unwrapping, the mill scale is on the cloth visable by the black color. A phosphate coating is left and the tubing is etched. Do not let the cloth to dry out as it sticks to the tubing and leaves a rough surface. This will come off with a little sanding. This method did not have as good results on hot rolled angle iron or flat stock. Probably soaking in the Rust Blaster prior to welding in place would give better results.Wear rubber gloves as the Rust Blaster will dry out hour hands and cause any cuts to burn like ----.
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« Reply #18 on: March 12, 2009, 08:55:14 AM »

On the issue of using automotive paints, a good respirator is a must and an outside airsource is even better. Read the MSD sheet on some of the 2 part paints and you will see how bad the fumes can be.

Spending money on an outside airsource is kind of like buying a good helmet...what's your good health worth?

I found a relatively inexpensive outside airsource here... http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/hobbyair.php



I've been using it for years and haven't had any problems with it.

When painting outside, a good disposable mask made specifically for automotive paints is available at you local auto paint supply store. Just be careful to keep mist/fumes away from your eyes as they can be absorbed into your body there.
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SPARKY
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« Reply #19 on: March 12, 2009, 09:03:19 AM »

The only advice I have is use a primer that contrast from you final color===white worked well under the blue and red---horribily under white---just could not tell when I had a good even cover.
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Miss LIBERTY,  changing TKI  to noise, dust and RUST!!!

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Stainless1
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« Reply #20 on: March 12, 2009, 09:20:36 AM »

Sparky, for even coverage on the Ratical just do criss cross patterns with the roller....   grin .... ROTFLOL
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Stainless
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« Reply #21 on: March 12, 2009, 09:59:19 AM »

LOL ---now that  is an IDEA---SS # 1 ---beware  payback can be a bitch  evil ---lol  cheers
« Last Edit: March 12, 2009, 10:01:36 AM by SPARKY » Logged

Miss LIBERTY,  changing TKI  to noise, dust and RUST!!!

The # 1 issue is: TO KEEP THE REPUBLIC      
   Center for Self Governance            tncsg.org     mrspowell.org

"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing."   Helen Keller
landsendlynda
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« Reply #22 on: March 12, 2009, 10:01:14 AM »

No, no, no...payback is double....I'm the bitch!!!  Remember?   grin

Lynda
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« Reply #23 on: March 12, 2009, 10:13:53 AM »

My long time friend, Mike Parti (Trailblazers and AMA Hall of fame member) has always noted that Red-Primer is American's Racing Colours.......
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Dan Stokes
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« Reply #24 on: June 22, 2009, 04:11:21 PM »

I'm a pretty experienced amateur painter, and here's my layers -
- On bare metal (steel or aluminum) start with self-etching primer
- Ground fiberglass.  Static electricity is NOT your friend when painting this stuff.
- Thin the primer according to the manufacturer's suggestion
- Apply several layers of lacquer primer.  Block sand every couple of layers.
- When satisfied, SEAL with thinned DP series epoxy primer (comes in various colors - DP90, for example, is sort of Hot Rod black).  This is an important step and keeps any chemical issues from bleeding thru the paint.  There are directions on the DP can as to how much to thin.
- DRY SPRAY the color coat, thinned and hardened according to manufacturer's directions.  Wet coats here will probably cause problems with checking and other issues.
- Shoot at least 3 coats of clear - it goes on wet.  Allow it to flash between coats as recommended.
- After finish (wet sand, buff, etc. as desired.  On a race car you might chose to omit this step completely.

- I always stick with a complete system thruout the entire process - my fave is PPG. 
- Find a good paint store and listen to them. 
- ALWAYS use fresh clear coat hardener.  Once the can is opened keep it in the fridge between uses or it WILL NOT harden the clear.  Ask me how I know this.  On my brother-in-law's truck (felt like an idiot). 
- I spray with an old-school Binks #7 gun and it's a winner.  I can't tell you how old it is and it can do wonderful things - sometimes even in my hands.  Lots of wasted paint, though.
- You can't spray when you can't see - get as much light as you need.  Once knew a guy who painted with a trouble light in one hand and the gun in the other. Sometimes I do this, too. 
- It's helpful to have an extra person watch the hose as you spray - it's WAY too easy to flick the hose into the paint.
- Don't worry about painting - blithering idiots and drunks can do it.

Lots of info - hope it helps.

Dan
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Wilmington, NC - by the sea

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