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Author Topic: Simple Subject, Fiberglass  (Read 15370 times)
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Dynoroom
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« on: April 06, 2008, 11:31:17 AM »

Yes I know it's a simple question but look at it this way, I'm an engine guy (at least I think I am) and I'm trying to finish a car that I'm WAY over my head on and we're at the point where we need to do some glass work.
We've got a plug made for the parachute farring on the modified roadster and need to glass it into the body. Were not going to build a mold we are just going to remove the plug after the part is finished, I think...... then we were just going to lay glass mat up and blend it into the body. I would like suggestions on how you would do it, any ideas are welcome.
Keep in mind none of us has ever layed up fiberglass but I know kids in high school did it so it can't be too hard but I'll bet there are some tricks some of you have to make it a bit easier.

Thanks
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Michael LeFevers
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« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2008, 11:41:11 AM »

I built one off parts with styrofoam  by putting the fiberglass on top of it and cutting  the styrofoam out once I finished it.  The warehouse  next to my office stocks big TV's and I got some packing styrofoam from them and used a electric carving knife to shape it.
« Last Edit: April 06, 2008, 11:47:41 AM by maguromic » Logged

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« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2008, 06:52:17 PM »

when you make your mold put wax paper over it, so your finally project wil come out easier. and some foam will melt. make sure you get all air pockets out, as air pockets will weaken your end result. do one layer at a time. a few tips that should help. if i think of anymore i will post more.
Danny
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« Reply #3 on: April 06, 2008, 07:46:56 PM »

Yes I know it's a simple question but look at it this way, I'm an engine guy (at least I think I am) and I'm trying to finish a car that I'm WAY over my head on and we're at the point where we need to do some glass work.

That is an LSR guy...gee I laughed....frank , fearless......Like when someone tells you something is impossible and you think to yourself " well I better get started because it sounds like it's going to take longer than I thought...."

Keep in mind none of us has ever layed up fiberglass but I know kids in high school did it so it can't be too hard but I'll bet there are some tricks some of you have to make it a bit easier.
Thanks

I love it ......can't help you with the 'glassing though Dyno ,
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« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2008, 09:05:35 PM »

I sent you a PM with my phone numbers.  I will glad to help in any way I can. 

John
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Dynoroom
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« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2008, 10:04:42 PM »

Yes I know it's a simple question but look at it this way, I'm an engine guy (at least I think I am) and I'm trying to finish a car that I'm WAY over my head on and we're at the point where we need to do some glass work.

That is an LSR guy...gee I laughed....frank , fearless......Like when someone tells you something is impossible and you think to yourself " well I better get started because it sounds like it's going to take longer than I thought...."

Keep in mind none of us has ever layed up fiberglass but I know kids in high school did it so it can't be too hard but I'll bet there are some tricks some of you have to make it a bit easier.
Thanks

I love it ......can't help you with the 'glassing though Dyno ,

Thanks Dr. I think it's important to keep things light in some of these rooms, glad you enjoyed it...... grin

I sent you a PM with my phone numbers.  I will glad to help in any way I can. 

John

Will be in touch John, got the PM, thanks
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Michael LeFevers
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« Reply #6 on: April 07, 2008, 11:04:54 AM »

Kind of reminds me of one of those Christmas gifts that say a 6 yr old can assy it in 15 minutes and it takes half the night to get it together. grin
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« Reply #7 on: April 07, 2008, 06:53:42 PM »

Fredvance:

That's 'cause Dad did it instead of the kid!

Pete
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« Reply #8 on: April 08, 2008, 09:00:24 AM »

Exactly
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« Reply #9 on: April 08, 2008, 11:30:03 AM »

Dyno,

You didn't state what your "plug" was made from. Styrofoam is easy to work with but melts when in contact with polyester resin. You might be able to wax it (buildup of wax would have to be thick). You could cover the plug with wax paper as suggested, or simply cover it with masking tape and then wax the tape of spray it with a relaese agent. If the plug is solid and will be pulled out make sure there there is a taper from front to back so it will release. Where the fairing will attach to the body grind off paint and primer to bare fiberglass or metal. Hope this is not to simplistic.

I have done a lot of fiberglass work ( making a one piece '57 Corvette 'glass body back in the '70's, how stupid was that!). To a lot of pieces on my race car, in fact I'm doing some glass work today on a air intake duct. Off subject.

Another way is to use 1/16" fiberglass sheet (available from most plastic suppliers) in 4' X4' or 4' X8' sheets. it's easy to cut and is ideal for non-contoured parts. Fit up the pieces to make the inner dimensions you need and then glass over it, sand and paint.

High density foam is easy to form and hollow out. It resists polyester resin and pieces can be glued together using Bondo. It can easily be shaped using a "cheese grater" type body file. It's rather expensive and some suppliers require full sheet purchases.

I made a handy little conversion chart for resin required per sq. in. of F/G mat so I don't waste to mush resin. You want to mix a little more than less resin. After laying up the Mat do a rough sand of the surface and use a wet resin coat utilizing F/G cloth as the final layer this makes a smoother surface for paint prep.

Hope this helps.

Tom

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« Reply #10 on: April 08, 2008, 11:48:18 AM »

Dyno,

More on the subject. Since you will be working with mostly flat sides you can make your F/G panels ( instead of buying sheet, by figuring out the number of plies needed (probably 3 or 4) cutting the mat a little oversize and using two 1' thick pieces of pine boards of the size needed, covered by wax paper taped to the back of the board. Saturate each layer of mat and apply to one board. After all layers are one first board clamp second board on top. You can make corners to what ever radius you want by making a mold using a piece of wood dowel, PVC pipe, I ever have used Hot Water foam insulation so I could form a curved surface. Just make sure you can pop off F/G casting. Then fit up pieces and glass together.

The nice thing about this approach is that the flat panels come out very smooth and require very little prep.

Tom

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« Reply #11 on: April 08, 2008, 11:53:31 AM »

................ in fact I'm doing some glass work today on a air intake duct. Off subject.................

Well I hope you take pictures and post them in this section.  It would help a lot of people out.

Thanks,

Sum
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« Reply #12 on: April 08, 2008, 01:07:49 PM »

Sum,

First picture shows "molds" : cone made of HD foam turned on drill press with cheese grater, curved piece of water pipe foam to form corners of air box & stright piece of PVC to form air box side pieces, 3' 90 degree PVC elbow to form male casting of transition from Bellhorn to plenum.

Second picture of plug for Bellhorn with finished part and diagram of ideal Bellhorn. Rim for Bellhorn was made from 1/2" fuel hose screwed to a board and glassed over.

Third picture shows air box with HD foam blocks before forming.

The forth picture is semi finished air box on car.


Tom








* Air_intake_001.JPG (149.66 KB, 639x425 - viewed 344 times.)

* Air_intake_007.JPG (90.93 KB, 640x480 - viewed 379 times.)

* Air_intake_010.JPG (162.91 KB, 640x480 - viewed 388 times.)

* Air_intake_016.JPG (58.15 KB, 640x480 - viewed 366 times.)
« Last Edit: April 08, 2008, 01:27:33 PM by 836dstr » Logged
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« Reply #13 on: April 08, 2008, 01:28:25 PM »

Hey, thanks, nice work.  That gives me and others ideas about how to make the mold or plug.  I have a feeling I'll end up still having to glass some parts of my car/body or maybe all of it.

Hope you post more pictures as you finish the project,

Sum
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« Reply #14 on: April 08, 2008, 01:33:15 PM »

Hey Sum,

Some projects are never finished. If fact I am in the process of adding fiberglass lands to the top of the airbox so that I can add some fire resistant bulb seal to seal against the underside of the hood.

Tom
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