Author Topic: Front Steer or Rear Steer?  (Read 9528 times)

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Offline maguromic

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Front Steer or Rear Steer?
« on: July 21, 2008, 12:14:27 AM »
I have seen several roadsters with different setups for steering.  Some were front steer and some were rear steer.  Is there a benefit to one over the other?

I am to the point on my build to start working on the steering, and trying to figure which way to go.

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Offline Peter Jack

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Re: Front Steer or Rear Steer?
« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2008, 12:27:48 AM »
There are pros and cons to both when used in road racing or oval applications, but in the case of lsr I would say that either one would do the trick just fine as long as everything is kept slop free and clearance and convenience could be used as the determining factors. Be sure you use the right box or rack with your chosen system. You wouldn't be the first to turn the wheel left and have the wheels go right if you get it wrong. :? :-o

Pete

Offline Milwaukee Midget

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Re: Front Steer or Rear Steer?
« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2008, 01:06:06 AM »
I'd think you'd want the setup that would give you the most room in your chassis to allow for further modifications.
"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  :roll:

Offline maguromic

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Re: Front Steer or Rear Steer?
« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2008, 01:15:47 AM »
My car has "A" arm suspension and the shocks are on push rods.  I am also very limited on space and the front steer would probably work out better.  I guess I will have to draw it up to see where everything would fit.  I just thought there was a reason some of the cars were front steer versus rear steer in LSR.
“If you haven’t seen the future, you are not going fast enough”

Offline Peter Jack

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Re: Front Steer or Rear Steer?
« Reply #4 on: July 21, 2008, 02:10:06 AM »
On street rods where a guy is looking for a clean look rear steer is usually the choice. Front steer definitely gives more room for accessory drives, radiators, etc. As I said, lack of slop in the linkage and good geometry will be much more important. Depending on the car you may want to think of longer or shorter steering arms to give you faster or slower steering. This can also be done in the steering box with different ratios or with a longer or shorter arm on the box in the case of a conventional box as opposed to a rack and pinion. Boy, sometimes I get a little long winded. :-P

Pete

Offline uglydog56

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Re: Front Steer or Rear Steer?
« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2008, 01:14:46 AM »
In a corner, front steer tends to go into understeer in bump, while rear steer tends to go into oversteer.  So most oem's went to front steer because it tends to be more stable, gives more room for exhaust routing, and allows the engine to set lower in the chassis.  With the limited suspension travel and lack of corners (hopefully) while land speed racing, I'd just go with whatever you find.  Pinto racks are front steer and they are readily available and relatively inexpensive.  Most spindles have Ackerman for front steer.  It also gives you more room for collapsible steering column in a body car.  my 2cents.

Offline willieworld

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Re: Front Steer or Rear Steer?
« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2008, 01:42:04 AM »
i dont have 2 cents but these guys do --go to bonneville general chat then to bonneville roadster story  i think most of your steering questions will be answered  willie buchta
willie-dpombatmir-buchta

Offline maguromic

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Re: Front Steer or Rear Steer?
« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2008, 01:46:06 AM »
I decided to go with  front steer as I need the room for my blower that is mounted in front.  As for the uprights I am in the process of drawing them up before building them, then off to the CNC.  The push rods are off an Indy car as well as the pivots for the shocks. It was easier to use off the shelf parts the design everything.

The reason I went with "A" arm suspension was when I modeled the front axles in a aero shape and did the calculations it came out almost 50 pounds and even with a gun drilling it would only take off about 5 pounds.  In the original design my shocks were in the center inside my radiator shell. Even with the 2' of travel (1"each way) it was  too much for the shocks and KONI my shock sponsor  did not think the valving would hold up the way we originally valved it.  Rather than change the valving it was easier and cheaper  to change the suspension as it was not built yet.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2008, 02:16:33 AM by maguromic »
“If you haven’t seen the future, you are not going fast enough”