My LS Bike Build Part 2

[isiahstites]

Scott
One spare for El Mirage, for Bonneville at least 2 spares for the trailer. Otherwise you did good.

Thank you Glen, I am still learning and I have a feeling with LSR racing it will never stop.

Scott

[isiahstites]

Just a quick update and a photo.

I found out that I am 11th of 64 bikes entered this year in the point chase and 35th out of 172 total vehicles.

That's pretty good for a first year bike and if I can make all the meets I fully intend finishing higher.

35th in points means I will run in the 35th position for the July meet. Which means by 8:30 A.M. which means no racing in the heat unless I make a second pass.

Here is the bike going through the traps at 167. I found the photo on the SCTA website.

Scott

[John Noonan]

Scott,

Looks good..did you tell your groups I would also run the decals for what they did for you?

We need to go over sizes and colors..



J

[isiahstites]

Scott,

Looks good..did you tell your groups I would also run the decals for what they did for you?

We need to go over sizes and colors..



J

Thanks John and yes I did put a post up stating that you would run the decals. Once we figure everything out I will start a new thread just for the decals on your bike. Thanks John.

Scott

[isiahstites]

Well guys I think I have my shifting problems fixed, at least I hope!

When I added the stator and rotor this year I did not adjust the pawl, I just threw it and expected it to work! I completely forgot about having to adjust the pawl. I think that is why I have been having problems shifting into fifth.

So I tore down the primary today and adjusted the pawl.



While everything was open I checked to see how the magnet that I used JB Weld on was holding up. I marked it with an x and as you can see it is doing fine.



I had this thick like paste in the bottom of my primary last time I opened it up and was thinking it was the new clutch, but it's there again. It is not as thick, but it's still there. I will have to make sure the clutch is adjusted right on and wait until I am in the primary again.



I checked all of the clutch discs and plates and everything looks fine.



I also ordered my playback tachometer yesterday so hopefully it will be on the bike for the July race.

Scott

[narider]

Hi Scott, congrats on your progress and accomplishments so far... your ride is very cool. Congrats on the newly expected one as well.

What tach did you order? I run a VDO that records and lets me set it's shift light to a different rpm for each gear (I use it as a programmable output to my shifter).

If your clutch shell is still out of your primary or you still have a problem after your latest adjustments.. consider changing the detent plate to the -90a if it's a -90 plate in there. It was more of a low gear issue before the change to the -a, but the detents are a bit more distinct all around actually. Be sure to check the exposed pin length of the drum pins while it's off and replace the circlip too.
Todd

[isiahstites]

Hi Scott, congrats on your progress and accomplishments so far... your ride is very cool. Congrats on the newly expected one as well.

What tach did you order? I run a VDO that records and lets me set it's shift light to a different rpm for each gear (I use it as a programmable output to my shifter).

If your clutch shell is still out of your primary or you still have a problem after your latest adjustments.. consider changing the detent plate to the -90a if it's a -90 plate in there. It was more of a low gear issue before the change to the -a, but the detents are a bit more distinct all around actually. Be sure to check the exposed pin length of the drum pins while it's off and replace the circlip too.
Todd

Todd - Thanks for the congrats on the bike and the soon to be new arrival.

I ordered an Autometer 3964 that will playback 90 seconds...........I have a data logging set-up I just haven't installed it on the bike yet. So the tach will be instant info so I can see trap rpm, shift points amd it will show if I have any wheel spin, this coupled with my data logging system should help me tune and troubleshoot. I didn't get a shift light for  mine, but I will on down the round when money allows.

The drum pins look to be fine. My detent plate has a part number of 39656-90 so I am assuming you are saying the better one would be 33656-90A. What is the difference?

Thanks for all the support,

Scott

[Sumner]

....................I ordered an Autometer 3964 that will playback 90 seconds...........I have a data logging set-up I just haven't installed it on the bike yet. So the tach will be instant info so I can see trap rpm, shift points and it will show if I have any wheel spin, this coupled with my data logging system should help me tune and troubleshoot. I didn't get a shift light for  mine, but I will on down the round when money allows...................Scott

Scott just curious if the LM-1 and the RPM converter would have worked for you for the recording and then it would have been all on one graph overlying one another and easier to correlate?

Good luck with the mods,

Sum

[narider]

My detent plate has a part number of 39656-90 so I am assuming you are saying the better one would be 33656-90A. What is the difference?

Exactly Scott(although yours is really a 33656-90 right now ---> the stamped and cast part numbers on HD parts(IE: like your 39656-90 #) are seldom relative to their actual OEM part numbers).  At anyrate... the 33656-90A is the correct replacement # and the difference is that the protrusions are more narrow and the valleys are are deeper and more pronounced to help create a more distinct and positive lock to each gear.  Here's a pic of an installed -90a...



They're less then $5 and throw a new spring on th earm while you're there (#34491-91)... you should keep a spare one of these handy anyways.
Todd

[isiahstites]

....................I ordered an Autometer 3964 that will playback 90 seconds...........I have a data logging set-up I just haven't installed it on the bike yet. So the tach will be instant info so I can see trap rpm, shift points and it will show if I have any wheel spin, this coupled with my data logging system should help me tune and troubleshoot. I didn't get a shift light for  mine, but I will on down the round when money allows...................Scott

Scott just curious if the LM-1 and the RPM converter would have worked for you for the recording and then it would have been all on one graph overlying one another and easier to correlate?

Good luck with the mods,

Sum

Sumner - I think the LM-1 and RPM converter will work fine once I put them on, I need to get a laptop first. I needed a better tach to begin with and wanted something that could give me instant feedback, so I bought the Autometer.

Scott

[isiahstites]

My detent plate has a part number of 39656-90 so I am assuming you are saying the better one would be 33656-90A. What is the difference?

Exactly Scott(although yours is really a 33656-90 right now ---> the stamped and cast part numbers on HD parts(IE: like your 39656-90 #) are seldom relative to their actual OEM part numbers).  At anyrate... the 33656-90A is the correct replacement # and the difference is that the protrusions are more narrow and the valleys are are deeper and more pronounced to help create a more distinct and positive lock to each gear.  Here's a pic of an installed -90a...



They're less then $5 and throw a new spring on th earm while you're there (#34491-91)... you should keep a spare one of these handy anyways.
Todd

Mine is part number 33656-90 not 39656-90. It was a typo on my part and I went back and edited my post and only fixed one of the numbers. I am currently calling all of the dealerships and local shops to hunt one down prior to re-installing everything.

Thanks again guys,
Scott

[isiahstites]

Well I finished up with the primary today. I replaced these parts.



Here are the three new ones, I didn't get the small spring until after I had the primary back on.........so I have it next time I open the primary up. Notice my big spring is kinda messed up?



Here is the new detent plate on top of the old one. See how the valleys are a bit deeper, this should help.


Here is the spring I did not replace, but bought. I will change it out next time as mine looked ok.



Took the bike up and down the street today for a few very low passes just to see if I could get it into fifth. I still need to change the angle of the foot lever, but I was able to get it into fifth with no problems. There was once or twice I wasn't sure but once I started counting the down shifts instead of the up shifts I was 3 for 3! So hopefully between everything I checked, replaced and adjusted we won't have any more issues.

Scott

[sheribuchta]

scott where did you get your fiberglass from  thanks  willie buchta

[isiahstites]

scott where did you get your fiberglass from  thanks  willie buchta

Kent - Airtech

[Super Kaz]

scott where did you get your fiberglass from  thanks  willie buchta

Kent - Airtech

Scott,
I still have that electric shifter you asked me to dig up for You Did you pass that message on to Dahmurf ?
Kaz...........