Looking through the posts, I realized I didn't explain how they design the rear diff for high load or low friction. If you look at the ring gear width (and pinion teeth longitudinal length) you'll see that the "low drag" units are MUCH narrower than the high load setups. Many will have a little less helical shape (pickups particularly can live with this, because the diff noise "usually" doesn't get into the cab). We do have to use cardboard liners in the driveshaft tubes to prevent "ringing" or "whistling", with the flatter helicals.
For example, one of my favorite axles is the 47" (backing plate to backing plate) Hilux 8". I have built these using Supra Turbo 4-spider LSDs by hand plunging the races on aftermarket Timpken bearings (to fit the smaller bearing clamp in the truck housing). Pinion tooth and ring tooth engagement is about 1/3rd longer than the standard truck parts. You can definitely feel the difference just spinning them by hand....BIG teeth.
Dan Wagner and I ran the 8" Hilux in our 2-liter roadster....many runs around 175-180 with no problems. My boss runs the same axle in his V4F/Street Roadster; saves a few horses....using gears from 4-cylinder trucks. Lots of this stuff in the pick-a-parts...usually about $75-100. For low power cars, look for the skinny gears and you'll be fine. NOTE: The Taco parts don't swap into the old housings, though you can go the other way. Taco axle is very wide, for most of our cars.
Don't forget....CHECK SIDE GEAR CLEARANCE on high mileage diffs. If one is worn more than the other, you'll be trying to drive the right and left wheels at different gear ratio, because the engagement will be too shallow and the diff will "make up the difference", so to speak. It'll tend to get one wheel "loosened up" because the other is following behind the power applied....makes the driveline groan going down the road....we see this on the old "trashed out, bottom feeder 4x4s" that ran with a mix of giant tires, worn out.
Hope this helps.
JimL