My CBR1000 A/F

[oz]

Damm this Nitrous system is becoming a pain!
I hear what you are saying about the controller but it isnt what you would call home made,Adam who I mention earlier is an Electronics engineer of the highest caliber and designs satellite comunications controls and microwave links for a living (alot of the footage of Iraq Afghanistan the last solo ascent of Everest has been sent around the world on his or should I say the company we work for's design of equipment so I have great faith in him We also supply the U.S.and British Army with Equipment.)I only do the mechanical side of things here I am concerned with the solenoids though.Apparently Adam is doing it not with Voltage but by altering the duty cycle of the solenoids whatever that means I wanted to do it with high pressure mechanical ball valves but he assured me that he can do it this way.I am going to have a look at a multi stage setup now you have mentioned it and i will post a question in the EFI section on the solenoids issue.I really do have faith in his skills though and will see what he comes up with, I didnt mention earlier the system will be linked to lambda sensors in the exhaust so it can be monitored for anything unexpected also pressure sensors on the gas and nos in case of pressure drop which will cut the system hopefully "imediatley" if it goes pear shaped.I will keep you posted on any developments and or decisions in case I do something really silly.
Thanks Guys OZ

[joea]

complicated controlling is the only way I found any success.......
(were still the worlds fastest nitrous bike for records that require
maintaining a speed for a mile)..........we pulsed the solenoids for
over 4 miles (due to the base engine so weak, needed to use nitrous
for nearly the entire run)


lamda is nearly worthless with large loads of nitrous........pressure sensors
nice but with very large loads of nitrous (high percentages of nitrous hp vs
base engine hp).......having a good grip on what composition is actually getting
into the combustion chamber was our biggest challenge.........

theoretically alot looks doable.........execution can be painful

with that said........good luck.......may the force be with you......

Joe

[Stainless1]

You only need a "Murphy" switch on the gas.  If the N20 quits, the fire will go out right away anyway.  If you can find retracted gap plugs, those will be required for long term juice. 
Sounds like your buddy is planning on pulsing the solenoids, get the largest ones, they don't freeze as easy.  Joea will be a good source of reliable info.  Bring spares....

[1212FBGS]

bring spairs....pistons, cylinders, and heads....or leave the NOS home...
kent

but i will comment...if you are gonna be a pussy and only run a 40 shot dont bother.... real men run 100 or better.... i put a 200 shot on my 600 once....once....to bad Suzuki didnt put better crank cases on there 600s
kent

[Stainless1]

.... real men run 100 or better.... i put a 200 shot on my 600 once....once....to bad Suzuki didnt put better crank cases on there 600s
kent

You musta been drinkin' that day... a lot!    or standing a little close to a lay-up job....   

I think the rule of thumb is 1 lb per minute is 10 hp, it is pretty easy to use 10 lb in a run..

[oz]

Hmmm Pussy here, I was only going to use maybe a 60 shot never mind! I have a letter from my mother to say I am a real Man and she said I am only allowed to play with Motorbikes and Nitrous when its not a school night HA!

What is a Murphy switch?  

[Stainless1]

What is a Murphy switch?   

A pressure switch wired to insure you have fuel pressure before the N20 is allowed to turn on.  Fuel is the part of the mix that needs to be there to keep the pistons in it.  If you lose fuel pressure, it will shut the power adder system down.  Murphy switches come in a variety of pressures, pick one close to your required dynamic fuel pressure.
When in doubt, Google ....

[oz]

Nice one thanks Stainless.

[oz]

The last few little bits and pieces have now been fitted all that remains to be done is chain guard and spin up a new rear caliper mount as the one that is standard to the original bike aint no good so looks like everything is going according to plan.I reckon I have about 5 months to get the engine work/wiring/plumbing/paint and finishing done which will give me enough time to get the nescassary dollars together to get over in 09 Whoopee!
Just out of interest we thought we would weigh the finished article and it comes in at just over 450 lbs which aint too bad as the standard bike is around 520ish I know weight aint too much of a concern in LSR but a saving of around 70lbs means I can still eat lots of pies instead of using ballast.This also means if I can squeeze a little over 200 bhp out of the motor it will be the equivelant of 1000bhp per ton so it should be lively I think thats about the same power to weight ratio of a yamaha R1, 1hp per kg ish heres hoping!
Will post a few more pics of the finished bits you cant see as it gets stripped.
Cheers OZ

[Stainless1]

add a provision for ballast?  Something readily available when you get to the US, like weight lifting weights... 

[oz]

OK heres a few more pics
Header tank for the rad fits in nice and tight in the frame



bosses are welded on ready for the inlet and vent



Opposite side switches for ignition nitrous and pumps etc





Chain guard thanks lee W and Dave @BE Aerospace





Side panels I have mounted the fuse box in one side for ease of access





Underside of airbox the bolts hold a baffle plate at the moment but I may be changing it for a small intercooler I aint decided yet.



Coils mounted infront of engine





electrics mounted



and fuel pumps



Rear sets all s/s weird angle on the brake side to get around pipe



looks sad without its bodywork on



Engine is coming out on monday and then the frame can be finish welded and the real work starts on the motor cant wait it will be nice to finally assemble the finished thing. The tubes aint rusty but for some reason they look it in the photos.Oh and i have put in a steel plate under the tank to carry some ballast if needed thanks for the tip might have to make a Munro lead brick Cheers


TTFN OZ

[guttley782]

Hi Oz,
Got any updates now that the festive season is over?

[oz]

Just coming up to the first pay day of the year I have a sneeking suspicion that it may take a leep forward in the next week or so!

[oz]

Nitrous Controler from Shnitz Racing is in Colorado, Ignition System being handled by MPS in Florida hopefully that should be making its way to Colorado within the next few days,Top end stripped, Reese Engineering in Leighton Buzzard re cutting Cam Pulleys,Roy Sherwood a top bloke is Gas Flowing Cylinder Head and re cutting valve seats E.T.C. and a bit of news from Dave Friend last night who is also on this site it looks like it could be using Suzi Pistons with any luck sourced from a good buddy of his in the good old U.Sof A seems to be a Trans Atlantic Build so far. So another leap forward and another pay day is approaching, they cant come quick enough at the moment as the bits return I will post some pictures of the finished articles If things continue at this rate final assembly should start around the end of May start of June, if everything goes according to plan (Then find somewhere for testing the Bedford Bypass early morning before the Police patrol cars warm up looks favourite at the moment!! )Anyone have any other suggestions?

[oz]

I am really pleased the site is back again heres a few more pics of the bikes progress.I think I am a few months behind schedule as there has been some minor problems with finances and things but I will keep plodding along!!



The Cylinder heads are finished at the end of this month and the pistons should be made and back from the states in another 5-8 weeks hopefully



The frame is a black nylon metallic its very hard and very corrosion resistant it also looks real nice up close



The wheels are orange obviously but it is a polyester coating still very hard wearing not the cheepest finishes but hey cant go this far and not do it properly!!

Cheers for now OZ