Author Topic: Roll Cage Tubing  (Read 28983 times)

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Offline hitz

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Re: Roll Cage Tubing
« Reply #15 on: December 04, 2007, 10:59:44 PM »
  Willie,

  The SCTA requires 1 5/8" X .120 min. MS for their roll cages. Maybe ECTA does.

  Your bikes look great and they look RIGHT!!

harv

Offline willieworld

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Re: Roll Cage Tubing
« Reply #16 on: December 05, 2007, 12:24:24 AM »
yeah i made a typo--i corrected it---but although your car requires 1 5/8 od round steel tubing with a min. .120 nominal wall thickness--nominal means they call it .120 but thats not what it really is--usually if you buy mild steel tubing in ew which is electric welded the mill spec i think is .110--and usually the tubing will be .110 to .115 wall thickness--but scta allows nominal wall thickness and as far as i know they don't sonic check it--what i usually do if i am going to build a nhra roll cage or chassis since their min. is .118 mild steel i'll buy .120 wall dom which is usually right at .120===if i was going to build an lsr car i would use .120 wall ew even though it might be a couple of thousands thinner the strength is still there--and the price of the tubing is a lot cheaper--you can also use 4130 chromoly tubing with a min. wall thickness of .095==and if you buy 4130 in .095 wall it will be .095 or .096 wall thickness guaranteed--if you are going to build a car for g h i j k you can use 1 1/2 in outside diameter by .095  nominal wall thickness unless the existing record exceeds 175 mph--if you are building a streamline motorcycle you can use 1 1/4 od with .090 inch nominal wall thickness steel tubing----drag race cars have to be stronger than a lsr car because of obstacles--i would recommend the ew in a nominal .120 -- if you order it from a chassis supplier  if it is ew the wall thickness will probably bo .135 wall  because the .120 ew wont pass the nhra .118 mininum thickness   
Willie Buchta
« Last Edit: December 05, 2007, 12:37:17 AM by willieworld »
willie-dpombatmir-buchta

Offline Dan Stokes

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Re: Roll Cage Tubing
« Reply #17 on: December 08, 2007, 11:24:47 AM »
My response!  First, thanks to all for your input.  The S&W kit was pretty good, but I decided to add some bits and pieces to make it even stronger.  Terry Russell helped get me started, as he has had considerably more experience that I have had with this.  We added a bar from front to rear on the halo, and ran the rear bars back into the trunk area (they land on the spring mounts).  Silly us - we couldn't figure out how S&W expected us to land the back bars, and it turns out that they expected them to be shorties that land in the rear seat area, and the bars we used were supposed to be the door bars (weird, as the darn thing were like 6 feet long!).  As you may have just figured out, the instructions sucked.

I also added sill bars, and have yet to make the door bars, but the driver's side will be a swing out.  Keith also suggested I add a diagonal bar from the rear of the bar we added in the halo to the right front to stiffen the whole cage, and I'll do that.  I also need to fit and weld in the short bars from the shoulder bar to the floor in the back - I just ran out of time.

I hired a welder to do the big welding, and he did OK, but not great.  I'll try a different guy for the rest of it.  As far as my total satisfaction - I'll give it a "B".  It's my first cage and I learned a LOT, and there's several things I'd do differently, but all in all, it's OK and, I think, safe.  I need to move the knee bar to above the steering column as Jon's knees hit it (Seldom Seen Slim is my secret driver, and he's always faster than I am).  I'm not sure what to do with the stubs from the old lower bar, as I know you're not supposed to grind on the bar.  I had to put the two down bars at the A-pillars in upside down from each other, and I'm not wild about that.  I may order up a new one and flip the one on the passenger side so it looks better, but maybe it isn't all that important.

On the engine.  I just got lucky (like a couple of days ago).  Terry found a guy who had what he thought was a Clifford head that he wanted to sell.  It was from an old circle track car that had a rod thru the side of the block.  Turns out that the class the engine was built for is no longer run, so it's no longer useful and he'd put a small block in the car.

So, I get over there (it was in Fayetteville), and it's not a Clifford.  It's a full-on race head from Clyde Norwood - Precision Engine Service!  It's a lump port with ALL the goodies, including roller rockers.  So this had been a full-on race motor, built by one of the best.  So I got the head for a good (for me) price, along with a PES intake manifold, that looks like 1/2 of a V12 tunnel ram.  I'd love to pick up the rest of the motor, as it has a Fluidamper, and at least 5 good custom machined pistons.  The rod took out the block, so there's no telling what else is trashed, but these motors are pretty stout and it may just need a block and a rod.  I have a shotgun for sale, and after that sells I may go back for the rest.

Again. thanks for all your input
Dan
Wilmington, NC - by the sea

ECTA idiot, Bonneville volunteer

Offline Seldom Seen Slim

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Re: Roll Cage Tubing
« Reply #18 on: December 08, 2007, 11:34:05 AM »
Dan, my aching knees and legs thank you for your attention to my physical needs.

New engine parts, hey?  This could be fun. . .
Jon E. Wennerberg
 a/k/a Seldom Seen Slim
 Skandia, Michigan
 (that's way up north)
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Offline SPARKY

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Re: Roll Cage Tubing
« Reply #19 on: March 30, 2008, 10:44:12 AM »
SCTA  either has or has access to sonic tester----my complete car has been "sounded"----it all passed-----to my relief and the suprise of some!!!!!!!!!!!!
Miss LIBERTY,  changing T.K.I.  to noise, dust, rust, BLUE HATS & hopefully not scrap!!

"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing."   Helen Keller

We are going to explore the racing N words NITROUS & NITRO!

Offline Sumner

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Re: Roll Cage Tubing
« Reply #20 on: March 30, 2008, 10:47:40 AM »
SCTA  either has or has access to sonic tester----my complete car has been "sounded"----it all passed-----to my relief and the suprise of some!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good thing they didn't try it on the driver  :-P,

Sum

Offline Cajun Kid

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Re: Roll Cage Tubing
« Reply #21 on: March 30, 2008, 01:38:46 PM »
Dan,  did you install a "knee bar"  ?  Also do you have pics of the cage ?  The diagonal bar you speak of, is it coming from the middle of the main loop (over or behinfd your head)  down to the front passanger side floor board where the front loop ties in?

Thanks

Charles
ECTA Record Holder Maxton
E/CBFALT, E/CBGALT, E/CGALT, E/CFALT, A/CGALT, C/CGALT, D/CGALT, C/CBGALT, B/CBGALT, C/CFALT
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B/CGALT, C/CGALT

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A/CBFALT, B/CBFALT, C/CBFALT, C/CFALT, C/CGALT,   E/CGALT, E/CFALT

Fastest Standing Mile at Ohio  203.343mph
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Offline SPARKY

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Re: Roll Cage Tubing
« Reply #22 on: March 30, 2008, 08:25:46 PM »
Sum----especially my crainum :-D
Miss LIBERTY,  changing T.K.I.  to noise, dust, rust, BLUE HATS & hopefully not scrap!!

"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing."   Helen Keller

We are going to explore the racing N words NITROUS & NITRO!

Offline Dan Stokes

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Re: Roll Cage Tubing
« Reply #23 on: April 28, 2008, 01:07:06 PM »
If you go to <carjunkietv.com> and check the forums, there's pics of the car in there under "General Discussion" - Dan's Pics - it's made it's way to like the 4th page, but I'll add more pics soon and bump it.  I'm pretty sure you're on these forums anyway.  The "knee bar" is now above the dash, so it's a "chest bar", I guess.  Yes - the diagonal bar runs from the center rear of the halo bar (where the extra piece runs from front to rear) down to the floor plate on the passenger side.  Eventually, I'll add bars to the front frame rails, as well.  So, all in all, the darn thing's stout, if heavy.  I'll take stout every time.

Hope this helps
Dan

Dan,  did you install a "knee bar"  ?  Also do you have pics of the cage ?  The diagonal bar you speak of, is it coming from the middle of the main loop (over or behinfd your head)  down to the front passanger side floor board where the front loop ties in?

Thanks

Charles
Wilmington, NC - by the sea

ECTA idiot, Bonneville volunteer

Offline KAKRI

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Re: Roll Cage Tubing
« Reply #24 on: August 13, 2009, 08:51:18 PM »
Bringing the thread from the dead. Getting the roll bar put in as we speak. Does anyone know if door swing outs are allowed? They would be the 5th and 6th points of the roll bar.

Offline Cajun Kid

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Re: Roll Cage Tubing
« Reply #25 on: August 13, 2009, 10:02:59 PM »
As far as I have heard "swing out door bars" are allowed,,, some folks are not fans of them,  but they are allowed...The build quality and materials of the "main cage structure"  needs to be stouter since the swing outs offer less total strength and stiffness thansolid welded door bars,,,, but being a BIG Guy,,  I sure understand the need for swing out on the drivers side... 

Check with Joe T to double check... ( I know he does not like swing outs ) but if the rest of the cage is up to par,,, he can advise you on passing tech....  Competition Engineering, Art Morrison and S&W  all make swing out kits...

Charles
ECTA Record Holder Maxton
E/CBFALT, E/CBGALT, E/CGALT, E/CFALT, A/CGALT, C/CGALT, D/CGALT, C/CBGALT, B/CBGALT, C/CFALT
OHIO
B/CGALT, C/CGALT

LTA Record Holder and 200 Club Member
A/CBFALT, B/CBFALT, C/CBFALT, C/CFALT, C/CGALT,   E/CGALT, E/CFALT

Fastest Standing Mile at Ohio  203.343mph
Fastest Standing Mile at Maxton 196.967mph
Fastest Standing 1.5 Mile at Loring 213.624mph
Fastest Standing Mile at Loring 204.109mph

http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/

Blog    www.venablerodsandracing.com
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Offline KAKRI

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Re: Roll Cage Tubing
« Reply #26 on: August 14, 2009, 11:01:39 PM »
Yep the rest of the roll bar is STOUT  :-D