torqueing your nuts!

[Carl Johansson]

Ok Guys,
I have put in 1/2" studs and 1" lugnuts.  What do you torque em to?

I know Jack bought the torqueomatic 3000 off the internet,  and since then, he retorques his nuts every 6 hours, his electrical bill has quadrupled -  so he is disqualified from answering this question!

Carl "wish I had enough disposable income to buy the torquomatic 3000" Johansson

[JackD]

Having set more LSR records than most , the standard for the size and type of a fastener has worked well for me.
The extra attention you seem to have noticed is designed to throw you off and it has.

[Carl Johansson]

Having set more LSR records than most , the standard for the size and type of a fastener has worked well for me.
The extra attention you seem to have noticed is designed to throw you off and it has.

So If i am following you -  you are saying you have absolutely no idea as to a correct answer for the question -  but since you have time on your hands -  you might as well interject obtusification in hopes that someone -  anyone will see your answer as some sort of sage advise?

This is why I disqualified you from answering Jack -  I need a number -  foot lbs,  inch lbs, inch ounces, -  Newton meters -  something i can actually use on my toreque wrench

Carl "still looking for a number" Johansson

[1212FBGS]

carl... become an employer like me... you'll get you nuts torqued all day long.
kent

[Harold Bettes]

Carl et al,

Assuming that the studs are 1/2" x 20 units, using a torque wrench reading of 75lbs-ft (with lightly oiled threads) should be more than adequate. 

IF you install them clean and dry, using 80lbs-ft would do the job. 

HOWEVER, should you not want to go to that level of trouble, just install with an impact tool using 100psi air supply oughta be pretty close. Because that is what most tire/wheel shops do.

After all this is America and your nuts, so do what you want to do.

Regards to All,
HB2

[Dean Los Angeles]

Tighten em till they strip, then back off a quarter turn. 

Or 3,245,000 parsecs/furlong.

[jimmy six]

Deans the closest. It's 1/4 turn before the strip or snap. I like a little anti-sieze too. But don't ever let a big truck truck stop see you do that....Those guys can really yell. I like the 5 foot snipe I used on a VW rear wheel axle nut

[Dean Los Angeles]

Or you can do like the guy did to the motorhome I rented for Bonneville in 1971.
We had to wait to pick up the motorhome in Los Angeles because they were changing the tires. They just didn't bother to tighten them. I sacked out in the back while a buddy drove. In St George they woke me up and said it was my turn to drive. I drove across the street from the gas station to the on ramp and the whole thing was shimmying and shaking. I said, "What did you guys do to this thing!" They swore it drove ok when the got off the off ramp.

We found three nuts missing on one wheel, two on another and one each from the other two. Stuck some Loctite on the remaining nuts, torqued the life out of them, and drove on. No problem.
(PS: We had a ton of other problems with the bag o crap. I superglued everything that moved before I gave it back to them.)

[836dstr]

Sounds like a couple of guys are "torqued".

[JackD]

Having set more LSR records than most , the standard for the size and type of a fastener has worked well for me.
The extra attention you seem to have noticed is designed to throw you off and it has.

Ya see ?
I got it right and you don't know how to read.
The recommended torque is listed and is not the same for all fasteners even if they are the same physical dimension.
I might suggest you ask the supplier unless you have already used him up.

"Don't corner anything that is smarter, tougher, meaner, and larger than you."

[Stainless1]

Tighten em till they strip, then back off a quarter turn. 

Or 3,245,000 parsecs/furlong.

Carl, that is just the first one, all the others you already know where they yield... 
Bob "I'd of just gone with the Chevy book" Steele

[hitz]

   

  Carl,

  Sounds like Harold Bettes is the winner here!

  You might check the wheel lug tapers against the (1" across the flats) 1/2 20 racing lug nuts. The nuts I bought had a 90 degree included angle. I used a 82 degree chamfer tool so it ended up with a outside line contact. Check the torque after each run until it holds the torque you've chosen. Then tighten 5"#'s more. Thats so you can check the next time at the chosen torque with out moving the nut. Like JD I use Neverseize. Always keep your threads clean and unmolested.

  Most of the good tire shops use a Tork Stick on their air guns.

Harv

[Rex Schimmer]

Recommended seating torque for SPS Unbrako Socket Head Cap Screws is: for 1/2-13 thread, 118 ft- lb, for 1/2-20 thread 130 ft-lb. Now these are grade 8+ made from material that has a minimum tensile strength of 180,000 psi, and as Jack said it really depends on the material and thread quality of the stud that you have. You can probably proportion your seating torque from these numbers based upon the tensile strength of the material they are made from. Lubrication is really important and the most important place to be lubed is between the nut and the piece that it is bearing against. This is the area that can make the most difference between torque settings, lubing the threads keeps them clean and helps the nut spin but lubing the bearing area makes the torque setting consistent and accurate.

Rex

[JackD]

If the parts are produced in China like so many other performance fasteners and components, then you must trust them.

[4-barrel Mike]

"Made in China" isn't a brand name??

Mike