Author Topic: Ford 2300 racing block  (Read 3648 times)

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Offline Paul P

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Ford 2300 racing block
« on: March 29, 2019, 12:57:40 PM »
I am currently running a stock Ford 2300 block with a stroker crank and a turbo and I want more power.  The stroker still keeps me in the F motor class.  I'm running a max of about 20 lbs. of boost but I want to increase the power substantially.  I have been told that one of the Ford Motorsports 2300 racing block with a 9" deck is the block I need if I want to really push the power up and run high boost numbers or an Esslinger 2300 racing block.  I have been desperately trying to find one of these blocks but they haven't made them for a long time.  Does anyone know where I can find one of these blocks and if they are that much better because I am coming up to crunch time where I am going build what I have or continue to try to find one of these racing blocks. 

Offline Stainless1

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2019, 03:44:18 PM »
I'm definitely not the expert here but if you are running 20 lbs of boost and want more power just go to 30  :roll:

I'm guessing you are already intercooled.... have you considered fuel class
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O

Offline Paul P

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2019, 02:46:25 PM »
That is why I need this block.  To increase the boost and keep things together.

The California Kid

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2019, 04:05:53 PM »

Hi

There use to be a guy with Pinto Beans business that was way into these engines.

Try Ford Motorsports store and machine shop in San Diego, El Cajon maybe.

Sounds like TA Biddle or something like that.

They were heavy into Fords.There new website is a little messy.Just call them

and see if you can find somebody that knows the stuff.

Offline bearingburner

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2019, 09:27:42 PM »
Have you tried the Turbo Ford site? Rick Byrnes might be a good source. Have you considered the new Ford 2.3 dual overhead cam engine? Ken Duttwiler is said to have gotten 900hp from one. We also run the 2.3 SOHC engine in a F/lakster

The California Kid

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2019, 10:09:22 PM »

Here is J Bittle.They have morphed into this.

https://jbaspeedshop.com/

They were just a machine shop and a parts counter in the 90's.

Who knows how you get through to the people that know the stuff now.Good luck!

In this link it looks like Pinto Beans was and is Esslinger Engines.

It is towards bottom of this page

http://www.bob2000.com/pinto2.htm

Hope that helps.

Offline RidgeRunner

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #6 on: March 31, 2019, 08:57:36 AM »
     What is your current combination and what power numbers are you looking for?

     We haven't progressed anywhere near the point of testing stock bottom end limits in LSR yet but many in the street/drag world say stock rods are good to a little over 400 RWHP, pistons a little more, and blocks to over 600 RWHP.

     A lot of solid info on the stinger-performance.com site.  We are still dialing in the PiMPx/Megasquirt engine management system along with new engine changes for the coming season.  The data logging capabilities alone have been more than worth the switch from stock eec-IV.

                   Ed

Offline Paul P

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2019, 09:14:50 AM »
Currently I’m running an Esslinger billet crank for about 2850 cc displacement. Running a water to air intercooler with a max of about 20 lbs of boost. Running Esslinger billet head and a blow through carb. Carb is required by class rules and I can’t have an electronic engine management. Currently running around 500 hp. Plan to push the boost level to as much as 50 lbs. looking for 1100 hp. Esslinger says the stock block is good to about 700 hp for my application.

Offline RidgeRunner

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #8 on: March 31, 2019, 11:45:41 AM »
     Thanks for the background.  You are way ahead of us with your combination so I can't offer any valid advice at this time.  All the best as you move forward and ever faster, I'll be watching with interest.

                   Ed

Offline Paul P

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #9 on: March 31, 2019, 12:04:26 PM »

I'm definitely not the expert here but if you are running 20 lbs of boost and want more power just go to 30  :roll:

I'm guessing you are already intercooled.... have you considered fuel class
[/quote]


I do run in a fuel class although so far I have been competitive running gas.  I do run a water to air intercooler.

Offline Rick Byrnes

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #10 on: March 31, 2019, 03:13:54 PM »
Paul
If you are running on the salt, I can help a little.
I am the guy that designed (redesigned/reworked tooling) for the Ford SVO block.  200 parts were made in Brasil and shipped to the US.  I believe a few were retained in Taubate and became engines in off road "Raid" vehicles.
If you are running on the salt and want to run 1000+ HP you really need a block like this, and the most robust bottom end that you can possibly create.  I am very familiar with the Ford turbo 4 community and really respect the exploits of the 2.3 crowd. 
BUT
they are street and drag racers, not running flat out for 5 miles.
LSR and Boat racing are the very most severe applications ever for engine reliability and durability
Your goals put you in a really special category
The SVO block I did in 1989 basically was a siamesed bore, thick bore walls and thicker deck, along with lengthened bolt bosses for less bore distortion under very high cylinder pressures. Skirt thickness was also increased.  I ran billet main caps but still limited to 2
half inch fasterers.  We had porosity issues in #3 bore because we were casting them in production flasks, and by adding 25 pounds of iron we changed how the iron freezes when cooling.  SO, some of those blocks had air bubbles that are exposed when going to something like a 4" bore that I'm currently running in a N/A motor.  I still have 2 blocks, but not for sale, but since Dan Esslinger remade and improved with the RACE block I would pursue one of those and design a girdle like Esslinger uses in the midget engine.
Is your head an XT BB.  If so why not a Billet block and girdle.  The could even redo the machining program to increase sections where
needed.  A good billet Aluminum block would be great.
Tell us what you are racing and what kind of class requires a carb.
Are you running methanol
Rick

Offline Rick Byrnes

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #11 on: March 31, 2019, 03:19:29 PM »
If you haven't already go to turboford.net web site.  Join up and put up a plea for a block.  There are some out there.

Rick

Offline Paul P

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #12 on: April 01, 2019, 12:39:12 PM »
Paul
If you are running on the salt, I can help a little.
I am the guy that designed (redesigned/reworked tooling) for the Ford SVO block.  200 parts were made in Brasil and shipped to the US.  I believe a few were retained in Taubate and became engines in off road "Raid" vehicles.
If you are running on the salt and want to run 1000+ HP you really need a block like this, and the most robust bottom end that you can possibly create.  I am very familiar with the Ford turbo 4 community and really respect the exploits of the 2.3 crowd. 
BUT
they are street and drag racers, not running flat out for 5 miles.
LSR and Boat racing are the very most severe applications ever for engine reliability and durability
Your goals put you in a really special category
The SVO block I did in 1989 basically was a siamesed bore, thick bore walls and thicker deck, along with lengthened bolt bosses for less bore distortion under very high cylinder pressures. Skirt thickness was also increased.  I ran billet main caps but still limited to 2
half inch fasterers.  We had porosity issues in #3 bore because we were casting them in production flasks, and by adding 25 pounds of iron we changed how the iron freezes when cooling.  SO, some of those blocks had air bubbles that are exposed when going to something like a 4" bore that I'm currently running in a N/A motor.  I still have 2 blocks, but not for sale, but since Dan Esslinger remade and improved with the RACE block I would pursue one of those and design a girdle like Esslinger uses in the midget engine.
Is your head an XT BB.  If so why not a Billet block and girdle.  The could even redo the machining program to increase sections where
needed.  A good billet Aluminum block would be great.
Tell us what you are racing and what kind of class requires a carb.
Are you running methanol

I run in the Classic class.  Rulebook allows carbs, mechanical fuel injection, or OEM EFI.  I haven't seen anything for mechanical injection and no OEM systems that can do the trick.  I am running gas so I can jump from gas to fuel class.  I just need a block but a few complete motors have been offered but they wouldn't work either.  What I really need is one of your blocks.  Please reconsider the thought of selling one.  If I don't find something soon I will rebuild the factory block and keep the power at a level it will handle and see what happens.  That may be the best I can do.  My fate may rest in your hands.  No pressure.  LOL

Offline 4-barrel Mike

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #13 on: April 01, 2019, 12:54:28 PM »
http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=034485

BTW "Dr. Joe Laramee" (8.43 @ 161.92) runs blow through.

Mike
Mike Kelly - PROUD owner of the V4F that powered the #1931 VGC to a 82.803 mph record in 2008!

Offline Paul P

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Re: Ford 2300 racing block
« Reply #14 on: April 10, 2019, 09:09:38 AM »
Paul
If you are running on the salt, I can help a little.
I am the guy that designed (redesigned/reworked tooling) for the Ford SVO block.  200 parts were made in Brasil and shipped to the US.  I believe a few were retained in Taubate and became engines in off road "Raid" vehicles.
If you are running on the salt and want to run 1000+ HP you really need a block like this, and the most robust bottom end that you can possibly create.  I am very familiar with the Ford turbo 4 community and really respect the exploits of the 2.3 crowd. 
BUT
they are street and drag racers, not running flat out for 5 miles.
LSR and Boat racing are the very most severe applications ever for engine reliability and durability
Your goals put you in a really special category
The SVO block I did in 1989 basically was a siamesed bore, thick bore walls and thicker deck, along with lengthened bolt bosses for less bore distortion under very high cylinder pressures. Skirt thickness was also increased.  I ran billet main caps but still limited to 2
half inch fasterers.  We had porosity issues in #3 bore because we were casting them in production flasks, and by adding 25 pounds of iron we changed how the iron freezes when cooling.  SO, some of those blocks had air bubbles that are exposed when going to something like a 4" bore that I'm currently running in a N/A motor.  I still have 2 blocks, but not for sale, but since Dan Esslinger remade and improved with the RACE block I would pursue one of those and design a girdle like Esslinger uses in the midget engine.
Is your head an XT BB.  If so why not a Billet block and girdle.  The could even redo the machining program to increase sections where
needed.  A good billet Aluminum block would be great.
Tell us what you are racing and what kind of class requires a carb.
Are you running methanol

Hey Rick I just wanted to let you know I finally found an Esslinger 9" deck block.  That's a tough one to find.  I didn't find any of your blocks out there.  Both blocks are as rare as you can get.  If I find another block I will snatch it up for insurance if I blow mine up. Teardown of the factory block revealed some oiling issues with the main bearings and some heat issues on pistons 1 and 4.  Billet crank was turned 10/10 to clean it up for the new block and new pistons ordered to handle the heat better.  Changing to different oil too.