Author Topic: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR  (Read 15842 times)

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Offline Wicked6

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #15 on: December 07, 2018, 01:04:36 AM »
I don’t think we considered the T56 top gear situation. We are changing from a QC to a Ford 9” for that reason. Something else for us to consider. On the cooling , we are not going for a record on this first build and runs. We are hoping to make 130mph runs, and MAYBE, a 150, if all the stars are aligned.
We are a group of Hot Rodders and Rod and Custom builders that have always had a Bonneville on our bucket list. A couple of us are looking old age in the eye, so now is the time, we think.
What are your thoughts on a heat exchanger for engine cooling?
This engine was donated to us from a very low mileage Cobalt SS. That fitted in with our budget!
One of the 6 involved has just installed a non blown version in his Model A Tudor sedan.
Maybe we will be  :dhorse:
Regards and thanks for input,
Pat.
I started with nothing, I have most of it left.

Offline JimL

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #16 on: December 07, 2018, 02:04:26 AM »
Blown front engine car is a pretty heavy fire suit and boots.  There wont be enough room for a brake pedal.  Hand brake tall enough to reach when loading/unloading or hand rolling in the pits....is a real lifesaver. Every year there are more injuries in the pits or loading/unloading....than ever happen on the course.

Really hard to feel the brake pedal well in those fireboots.  Also, your right foot is hooked under the safety bar for positive gas pedal return.  You won't be lifting it easy to get to a third pedal, plus the safety net over your legs reduces ease of switching foot positions.....so .....handbrake you can reach with arm restraints correctly set.

I used a twin piston master with both sections joined together in the plumbing to get enough wheel cylinder stroke for the rear brakes.  It will move enough fluid (compared to a big bore single master) with less potential for sucking salty moisture into the bore when releasing the brake.  It also puts the master in a place that is easier to work on every year. 

We had so much good advice from the long term regulars.....it was a real advantage solving problems we had never even thought of.

Offline jimmy six

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #17 on: December 07, 2018, 06:32:58 PM »
Jim L "keeping in mind that the foot-floor cannot be below the bottom of the body line." Where in the hell does it say that.

My feet have been below my lower body line in my roadster for 40 years but not below the frame and above my secondary flooring.

It's not every ones intent to build a car channeled and right on the ground and go 300 mph.
First GMC 6 powered Fuel roadster over 200, with 2 red hats. Pit crew for Patrick Tone's Super Stock #49 Camaro

Offline Stan Back

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #18 on: December 07, 2018, 07:03:10 PM »
I was thinking the same thing.  That sorta applies to Street Roadsters, although you can get away using the "stock floor" – including taking advantage of the lower pockets built into the 30-31 Model A's for side curtain storage.
Past (Only) Member of the San Berdoo Roadsters -- "California's Most-Exclusive Roadster Club" -- 19 Years of Bonneville and/or El Mirage Street Roadster Records

Offline Wicked6

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #19 on: December 08, 2018, 10:17:09 PM »
A preliminary drawing of our chassis. Our T56 turns out to be a T50. So it is a 5 speed, with a .8 final. We were intending to go with a 3.08 gear set. So 4th(1:1) and 6500rpm should get us to 150, with 28” tires.
So that’s the plan for now,
« Last Edit: December 09, 2018, 01:06:33 AM by Wicked6 »
I started with nothing, I have most of it left.

Offline Wicked6

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #20 on: December 09, 2018, 03:05:30 PM »

We decided today to run a GM Powerglide transmission and forget about the clutch, and overdrive and all of that. It will make the install way easier for us, and thanks to some input from a record holder running a TH400 on an Ecotec, we have gone the automatic route.
 
« Last Edit: December 09, 2018, 03:07:04 PM by Wicked6 »
I started with nothing, I have most of it left.

Offline tauruck

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #21 on: December 09, 2018, 04:23:37 PM »
Wish you all the very best on your build. :cheers:

Like the reference to Seasick Steve.👍👍👍👍

Regards, Mike.

Offline JimL

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #22 on: December 11, 2018, 04:21:26 PM »
Not much internet access out here.... But to clarify.....

JD, I was not saying it is in the rule book....just thinking how we built with bottom edge of body at bottom edge of belly pan.  That pretty much reguires the secondary flooring close to top of frame rails because (as you reminded me 25 years ago) there needs to be safety cage under the driver as well as around and over.  You said dont get bttom cage tubes in the way of feet getting in and out of the cage.  Tha was exactly right.

I should just butt out, now.  I keep thinking in terms of cheapest, simplest way to go fast with a really small engine.  That tends to color a fellows opinions, but I guess it doesnt really help other folks.

GB SK VA

Offline Wicked6

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #23 on: December 13, 2018, 04:29:11 PM »
I have checked the ‘18 rules and have contacted Russ Eyres and have the info I need to keep going. What I was wanting to do is OK by the rules. The seat will be “sunken” a bit below the main rails, but it will be above the hoops that carry the belly pan.
He also answered a few other questions I had.
Regards, Pat
I started with nothing, I have most of it left.

Offline bearingburner

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #24 on: December 13, 2018, 08:43:26 PM »
As I remember the rules (it been a few years) There is supposed to be  a cross member under the seat equal in size to the roll cage material.

Offline Wicked6

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #25 on: December 13, 2018, 09:45:59 PM »
As I remember the rules (it been a few years) There is supposed to be  a cross member under the seat equal in size to the roll cage material.
You are correct, we will have 3 that will be considered part of the roll cage. The full layout of the cage isn’t finalized yet, we want the motor and trans to be in place as we build it. Workin it all around the seat, the driveshaft, the dash and steering box and the firewall. Then the gas tank, intercooler and trans cooler all have to be mounted and “isolated” from the driver.
I started with nothing, I have most of it left.

Offline SPARKY

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #26 on: December 14, 2018, 12:07:23 AM »
increase your TE 4+% by getting rid of the Ford 9" look at the GM 7.5 axle 
very few records are set in years that you need rear suspension  solid on all corners would be my vote 
 25" rear tires and skinny ones---way out front  ANYTHING outside in the breeze is DRAG
Miss LIBERTY,  changing T.K.I.  to noise, dust, rust, BLUE HATS & hopefully not scrap!!

"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing."   Helen Keller

We are going to explore the racing N words NITROUS & NITRO!

Offline Wicked6

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #27 on: December 14, 2018, 08:50:24 AM »
Thanks for input Sparky. We are reverting back to the QC, it is an 8” ring gear Speedway Engineering unit. We are staying with suspension both ends, mainly due to our long term plan of this being street driven later.
I started with nothing, I have most of it left.

Offline SPARKY

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #28 on: December 14, 2018, 01:15:41 PM »
QC=  -6% TE 

you are going to need more gears than  look at a 4L80E   with at turbo you can stand the 30,27 25 % drops

look at no TQ converter if you want to consider it can be set up full manual

Miss LIBERTY,  changing T.K.I.  to noise, dust, rust, BLUE HATS & hopefully not scrap!!

"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing."   Helen Keller

We are going to explore the racing N words NITROUS & NITRO!

Offline Wicked6

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Re: How to build a 2.0l G/BGMR
« Reply #29 on: December 14, 2018, 02:51:57 PM »
We have the 5L50E. 5 speed. I never thought of running it full manual. It is electronic shift.
« Last Edit: December 14, 2018, 02:53:49 PM by Wicked6 »
I started with nothing, I have most of it left.