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Author Topic: sway bar pros and cons  (Read 5643 times)

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Offline Rex Schimmer

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Re: sway bar pros and cons
« Reply #15 on: February 10, 2018, 12:13:07 PM »
That vid was great! Pretty obvious that the color wasn't the problem, he spun in both black and white! My guess is that a three rotor, peripheral port rotor motor with a big hair dryer could probably make north of 900 hps. I think the problem was in Medder's right foot.

Rex
Rex

Not much matters and the rest doesn't matter at all.

Offline noturbo999

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Re: sway bar pros and cons
« Reply #16 on: February 19, 2018, 08:46:17 AM »
I'm not familiar with the RX7 front end but I assume it's McPherson strut type.
The change to an LS engine plus all the added structure & safety equipment you need will significantly raise the CG then you add into that the extra torque from the LS, you should expect to see some body roll under power. With variation in traction &-or you coming off the power, that will change & that will likely create a yaw situation. On the salt that can mean you are looking at the start line or getting 360 views & a trip to re-inspection before changing your shorts. :-o
I know of some door slammers that have huge sway bars from box trucks & motorhomes under both ends.
Go to the junkyard with you tape measure & find something you can adapt.
  Sid. 

This response makes the most sense to me. Thanks for sharing your insight.

Offline ntsqd

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Re: sway bar pros and cons
« Reply #17 on: February 16, 2019, 03:11:29 PM »
I've no idea what the correct overall approach might be for LSR, but trying to add roll stiffness by increasing the spring rate(s) is the wrong way to get there. If you need to increase roll stiffness you need to increase the size of the anti-sway bar or shorten it's lever arms. Adding spring rate not only doesn't work, but now your damping is off and the tires will have a harder time following the surface of the track thereby decreasing available traction. That said, it could be that for LSR a spring rate increase is desirable.

If you do remove the front bar and there is a rear bar it needs to come off too. Not removing an existing rear bar when the front is removed will result in a car where the rear wants to pass the front. Probably an undesirable trait in LSR......
Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite.