Ethanol/Methanol/E85 Carb Conversion

[Stainless1]

I just had a thought on intake temp... If we have a rubber connection somewhere we could put a hole in a sacrificial one and stick a meat thermometer in it to measure...
If we do that we won't tell Linda 

[maj]

I have an open element egt probe in my port floor as close as i could get to the valves , (about 1.5-2 inch)
on my turbo bikes and found E85 drops the inlet temps around by 20-25c behind the intercooler
with Methanol and no intercooler , one bike runs at around 17c inlet temp and the other 25c  , dropping from over 100c at the turbo outlet
i have not logged inlet temps with gas so cant do a complete comparison but expect its only a few deg at best

[Stainless1]

While I was waiting for inspiration to strike me I started on the tooling to redrill the bolt pattern from 5 on 130mm (5.118) to 5 on 5 for the dyno.  Just drilled the holes to mount it on the turntable and a center hole for the hub to drop in.  Will drill and tap  10mm holes 5 on 130 to mount the hub, then move to 5 on 5 resizing the holes from 10mm to .625 for the 1/2 20 press in studs I picked up for the conversion.
The math in my head says it will work... I should know one of these days soon. 

[manta22]

While I was waiting for inspiration to strike me I started on the tooling to redrill the bolt pattern from 5 on 130mm (5.118) to 5 on 5 for the dyno.  Just drilled the holes to mount it on the turntable and a center hole for the hub to drop in.  Will drill and tap  10mm holes 5 on 130 to mount the hub, then move to 5 on 5 resizing the holes from 10mm to .625 for the 1/2 20 press in studs I picked up for the conversion.
The math in my head says it will work... I should know one of these days soon. 

Stainless;

Your re-drilling of 130mm bolt circle to 5 on 5 will definitely work. I did the same thing on my rear hubs. I used Porsche 996 rear uprights & they had the usual Porsche 130 mm pattern but I found that SCTA compliant wheels to fit that pattern were impossible to find. A little investigation showed that re-drilling the hubs and rotors to a 5" diameter pattern was feasible if you used 5/8" wheel studs. Worked like a charm and now I can use steel circle track steel wheels- cheap too!

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[Stainless1]

Definitely drilling 5/8 holes.. but 1/2 inch studs.... The dyno has 4.5/4.75and 5 on 5 adapters... I am getting a 5.5 to 5 adapter  to do Corey's roadster

[Stainless1]

Ran into some spare time while waiting for welds to cool (forced by red spot on my arm) so I started setting up the mill to bore hubs.  We discovered the hub did not fit well between the hold down bolts... so a counterbore and short SHCS and now it will fit..  I will continue another time....

[Stainless1]

I started working on the Boxcar 2 shifter and of course needed the mill to make a part... so I just jumped on the hubs... the first step was to counterbore the other 2 holes and put the plate up on a series of parallels so I wouldn't drill through my rotary table and give some room to tap the 10mm holes.  Rechecked the table was centered, then mounted the plate centered on it... moved out 65mm, drilled and tapped the holes.   Dropped the  hub on and it fit perfectly, would not rotate a thou ... must have done something right or Suzuki did 
Bolted it  down tight, reset the center to 2.5 inches (very convenient to have an inch/metric digital readout), removed a bolt and milled a hole down to the aluminum, reinstalled and rotated to the next bolt.
After I finished all 5 I pulled it off and stuck one of the new Ebay studs in a hole, expecting to need to press it in... well shit... it dropped in.... the studs were supposed to be .627, I purposely used one of the mills I knew was resharpened to about .623 figuring a good press.  The holes measured .624 (expected... old mill)... the studs... .622 on the top of the ridges... No wonder they were so reasonable.... 
No big deal... I mounted it on the dyno adapter, and added a couple of tacks... now they are tight.

[Stainless1]

This is the dyno adapter... perfect fit...
Wash, rinse... repeat and now we have 2 hubs 5 on 5 with 1/2 inch studs that fit the dyno adapter
Sent Ross a note to come have a beer... he assembled the rear end... Then we had a beer. 

Next up we need to bring the bike out, pull the swingarm, install the trike swingarm, then figure out the spacers to align the  sprockets, make a long chain and it is ready to go.  I might have a couple of trailer tires with 5 on 5... Ross could ride it around the block.

[Sporty Dan]

That looks great. You have definitely been busy. 

[mc2032]

Well crap, I finally get to post a reply right before the forum goes dark for only who knows how long.  Don, your swingarm finally found a home on the bike.  Looks like it belongs there and thank you again.  Land racers are the best people.  Drug the bike out to Stainless' and hung the swingarm.  A few whacks with the orange wonder and a couple of spacers the chain run was aligned, good to go.  Dyno day to be scheduled and the plan is to wring all we can outta race gas then move to e85 or straight methanol of there is any motor left by then.  Oh, capped the day with dinner and a neoopolitan stout and then a Rye barrel aged stout.  Picture the bike before.

[mc2032]

right side after

[mc2032]

left side after

[mc2032]

From behind after. A few things left to tidy up.  gotta do something with the brake caliper, can't just leave it hanging there, add a chain guard, stuff like that.

[salt27]

Ross, Glad it worked for you.   
  Don

[Stainless1]

Yep, it is starting to look dyno ready.... Then we try the same trick on one of my Hayabusa swingarms... if it works for the Sportster...