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Author Topic: UK Lakester build G/GL  (Read 108547 times)

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Offline Lemming Motors

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #585 on: June 03, 2020, 03:55:00 PM »
All; many thanks for the comments.

For clarity (which I didn't provide) the proposed line material is -03AN/JIC Stainless Steel Braided PTFE Brake Hose Aeroquip / Goodridge so that looks like a lucky shot in the dark.  :clap

I think the clutch is 0.75" but in all honesty that's what was supplied with the pedal assembly; two singles purchased individually (brake / clutch) and the throttle assembly built from scratch to 'match'.

I will use a new clutch slave and once its all plumbed see what happens. It may need a different master - different sizes are available in the range.
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Offline manta22

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #586 on: June 03, 2020, 04:03:51 PM »
Rigid tube is going to be a cheaper approach but the cost of fittings will narrow your choice.
Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Offline Lemming Motors

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #587 on: June 04, 2020, 02:08:57 AM »
Neil
You make a very good point about cost which at this stage I hadn't looked into (i.e. cost of the ptfe / stainless braid).

In truth its a long way from the brake pedal to the rear axle so a normal hard line junction with an off the shelf rear axle flexi hose to a T junction on the axle itself is probably sensible for the brakes - heck, half of the required bits are probably already in the brake parts box from previous projects - which prompts me to go find that box.

I am currently out of work (corporate takeover, not virus) and that gives me more time so while the chassis is out I am going to have a complete reorg of the garage for the next phase and store what bits I have in their own containers by sub system to help with assembly.
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Offline Lemming Motors

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #588 on: June 17, 2020, 09:39:03 AM »
I have written about the gear shift before so here goes; forth time lucky.  :dhorse:

Essentially the Honda (car) box is an inline 6 speed and in the donor the shifter falls to hand. In the lakester its 10 feet behind your hand which is inconvenient.

At the box end the shift lever is replaced with a sliding mechanism that engages the donor parts via a ball joint so push pull is say 1st to 2nd and a few degrees of rotation goes across the box, one direction is from 3rd/4th to 1st/2nd and the other direction to 5th/6th - it is the same pattern as the car so no brain teasers here.

It is a single rod via milspec UJs from there to the cockpit (with a couple of guide bearings) and I need to remove any and all slack as that multiplies up to a sloppy shift. This iteration uses a Borgeson 3/4" telescopic shaft so there is a reasonable amount of inner sliding for and aft meaning the mechanism won't droop and bind under its own weight and, if I can get the missing tension spring, will be a bit more rifle bolt. Pinkies crossed. News flash - Borgeson can provide one foc :clap

I do appreciate there are a dozen ways to do this - I have tried 4 but cannot stretch to a Quaife sequential box or funky air shift etc. so have to make the best of a manual action. This version is very promising.
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Offline ronnieroadster

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #589 on: June 17, 2020, 01:31:01 PM »
The only thing I can say is this. When your able to finally make a run after all the hours of work needed to get the chance to finally run including that long wait in line. The last thing you want to go wrong is a missed shift. Trying to figure out what gear your in or want to be in is going to throw your entire focus off. My point is simply this.  Being able to accurately select each gear is one of the most important parts of your run. Any possibility of a mystery shift needs to be eliminated as much as possible.  Im sure you will figure it out don't settle for its good enough.     :cheers:
    Ronnieroadster
Working in the shop I use the 'F' word a lot. No not that word these words Focus and Finish go Fast and Flathead Ford!
 ECTA  XF/BGRMR Record 179.8561
 LTA    XF/BGRMR  Record 200.921 First  Ever Ford Flathead Roadster to hit 200 MPH burning gasoline July 2018
 SCTA  XF/BGRMR Record 195.650
 SCTA  XXF/BGRMR Record 216.131 plus a Red Hat
"Life Member of the Bonneville 200 MPH Club"

Offline Lemming Motors

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #590 on: June 29, 2020, 07:06:20 AM »
All welded up  8-)
Except for the inevitable mods, brackets, tags, tabs and etc.  :wink:

Degreased and some sort of converter applied (phosphoric acid plus some zinc maybe?) but putting primer on by brush is going to take forever - there is a lot of tubing although that should help it stay near the ground at speed - 470lbs for reference.

I started undercoating the tail section and observe that grey POR is surprisingly thin compared to black.
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Offline Peter Jack

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #591 on: June 29, 2020, 11:32:54 AM »
That's a great looking build John. The driver's area looks as safe as anything I've seen built with a tubular structure. The only thing I see that might raise a question is there is little to stop your legs from goin out the top. This can probably be solved with a net similar to a window net and would mean less welding than adding more structure.

That's a job well done. I look forward to seeing it on the salt.  :cheers: :cheers:

Pete

Offline Stainless1

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #592 on: June 29, 2020, 11:28:21 PM »
John, if I remember you have a seat made of aluminum basically lining the bottom and sides of the cage.  You could line the top of the cage, make it easily removable or just install several aluminum strips across the open spaces so the legs cant escape if something untoward happens.  In a tight cage, a window net can hang down and catch on the feet as you are trying to escape... Yes I know several folks have an upper leg net... so if you go that way, make sure it stays up on the ceiling.
Get back to work...  :cheers:
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.

Offline Lemming Motors

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #593 on: June 30, 2020, 03:02:35 AM »
Pete, Stainless

I haven't quite figured out the upper leg restraint and you are right - why am I painting it when its not finished - I had that thought yesterday as I was bemoaning my sore back bending over painting tubing - oh why does tubing have so many sides?

I think I will paint the inner aluminium panels with etch primer both sides and then some contrasting colour on  the cockpit side for 'style'. Nothing as fancy as Sids liner with metallic blue chassis though.

I think there will be a few places where the chassis paint will get ground down and some welding done, then repaint. The leg restraint is one and a timely reminder to re-read the rules (no 2020 book here yet). I want to get the welds protected and figured if its painted then many of the things that I start bolting in place can stay bolted in place and that feels like progress.

As an aside - the CofG of the chassis with nothing attached is rear of the firewall and perhaps under or towards the rear of the water tank / radiator but I fear I'll need hobnail boots when driving it to get the CofG where I want it as there is more going in rear than forward; or I could just eat and drink more - heres to putting on weight for safety reasons  :cheers:
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Offline Stainless1

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #594 on: June 30, 2020, 08:40:28 AM »
John, I'm with ya on painting and then rubbing a little of it off to add a tab.... been doing that since the chassis was squirted.... but I live in a humid place and bare metal tends to take on a little patina about a day after it is exposed.  The problem you will face is confining the repaint to the spot you need after welding.  That has been a challenge... from here, it may go on with a brush... I have several spots that got rubbed a bit during the course of building.
Keep going, CG is adjustable, you can figure it out after the wheels are on the ground... some of the weight you put between the wheels ends up in the front.
 :cheers: 
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.

Offline ggl205

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #595 on: June 30, 2020, 05:30:57 PM »
John, are you thinking of installing a rear vertical stabilizer? That will help pull back Cp some if needed.

John

Offline Lemming Motors

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #596 on: July 01, 2020, 02:19:36 AM »
Tail fin thingy - yes.

The rear structure (where it goes pointy) is not shown in the pics of the chassis on the path.

I was thinking CofG for front / rear weight distribution / traction at this stage. I assume at this stage that up to 60 percent of the total mass on the rear tires is the target?
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Offline ronnieroadster

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #597 on: July 01, 2020, 01:42:31 PM »
Tail fin thingy - yes.

The rear structure (where it goes pointy) is not shown in the pics of the chassis on the path.

I was thinking CofG for front / rear weight distribution / traction at this stage. I assume at this stage that up to 60 percent of the total mass on the rear tires is the target?



    John once you have determined the C/P for your lakester you may be surprised to find the front axle to rear axle weights will be extremely close when moving the weights around to get the C/G forward of the C/P.  On my car the final axle weights needed so the C/G was forward of the C/P is less than a 200 pound difference. 
    Ronnieroadster
Working in the shop I use the 'F' word a lot. No not that word these words Focus and Finish go Fast and Flathead Ford!
 ECTA  XF/BGRMR Record 179.8561
 LTA    XF/BGRMR  Record 200.921 First  Ever Ford Flathead Roadster to hit 200 MPH burning gasoline July 2018
 SCTA  XF/BGRMR Record 195.650
 SCTA  XXF/BGRMR Record 216.131 plus a Red Hat
"Life Member of the Bonneville 200 MPH Club"

Offline Lemming Motors

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #598 on: July 08, 2020, 04:53:07 AM »
Rule book arrived and nothing that diverts me that I can see.

With the chassis on its side during paint I have installed the firewall and considered what passes through it where.
I have decided to run a rectangular tube from the front of the cockpit (mounts to the sliding block guide assembly) where it will pick up the hardline for brake and clutch.
A bit rearward it has an opening to feed the chute release cable and the dash wiring will enter here too.
It has a nitrile rubber seal at the firewall (near the bottom of the body) and once everything is in it I will fill the engine end with fireproof sealer.

Bit of a pain if it needs removal but better than lots of holes in the firewall I think.
Probably put wiring connector blocks at each end though that adds to points of failure.

Fire bottle cables will go a different route. Throttle cable has its own seal slightly higher up to line up properly.

In my head everything that needs to go south will fit in this tube. I might regret that statement - I bet I have forgotten something.
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Offline Jack Gifford

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #599 on: July 09, 2020, 12:31:19 AM »
Just thinking (or not?) out loud- how about a terminal strip at both ends of the rectangular tube? Screw terminals (and coax connectors) are very reliable. Just include the required number of conductors (and spares) and assign them to matching screw numbers at both ends. Barrier strips are nice, and many are available with covers. Might want to include some twisted pairs (or coax) for interference-sensitive signals.
M/T Pontiac hemi guru (or does guru status expire after 30 years?)