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Author Topic: UK Lakester build G/GL  (Read 101835 times)

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Offline Lemming Motors

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #270 on: April 05, 2019, 07:45:22 AM »
Question to those good people who have used a radiator in a water tank (as a heat sink) for engine cooling.

I have made enquiries locally via bespoke readiator specialists and have returned some quotes that result in serious money to have such a thing custom built. I am seriously considering mounting the radiator in a bespoke fibreglass water tank that I do have the capability of making myself. Has anyone taken a similar approach or is there anything that is obvious to someone else that would wave a red flag here?

I have thought through the mounting of the rad in the tank and passing the inlet and outlet tubes / hoses through the tank. Potentially the tank could have a removeable lid (like a rocker cover) making the radiator accessible.

Have you used a 'normal' radiator core or made it from something more robust (e.g. oil radiator core materials)?
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Offline Stainless1

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #271 on: April 05, 2019, 08:44:17 AM »
I know Buddy"s Flat Cad had a regular radiator in a box in the trunk.... it had a removable lid with a RTV gasket.

But they had a ton of room.... you do not.  Your radiator may need to be less than standard size...
I would do a tank... but Sparky will have a different opinion. 
I think John Goodman also had a radiator in a tank in his 2 liter... and it is small
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.

Offline Lemming Motors

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #272 on: April 05, 2019, 10:07:01 AM »
Thanks Stainless - definately doing a tank - the rad will be around 13" wide x 20" tall and 3.5 to 4 " deep with the tank/box wider at the top and around 8" deep.

I like the idea of having a top opening - the tank itself will not be under pressure and the idea of being able to fish the radiator out appeals to me, although the potential need to fish the radiator out does not because if it fails we will be going home with our postcards, earlier in the week than planned.

The problem is if you solve every potential problem to the degree that you eliminate failure you dont actually build anything - was it Rochen Rindt who commented that when the rear wheel of his grand prix car over takes him he remembers he is driving for Lotus - maybe a little too much in the other direction - adding too much lightness.
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Offline Elmo Rodge

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #273 on: April 05, 2019, 10:31:19 AM »
Was Rochen Jochens' brother?  :-D  :cheers:
Wayno

Offline Interested Observer

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #274 on: April 05, 2019, 02:34:19 PM »
A couple thoughts on the radiator/box.
Since the heat transfer water-to-water is much more effective than water-to-air, the size of the “radiator” can be considerably smaller than what one would typically use for water-to-air.  Also, the core depth cited above is excessive--doesn’t really add much to heat transfer.  Frontal area is much more effective.  The system heat capacity is really the amount of water in the box, which can also be iced if really pressed for space.
To take advantage of thermo-siphon currents in the box, the radiator should be horizontal or inclined as much as possible unless you plan on a circulating pump in the box. 
All of which may create or solve packaging issues.
It comes down to how much horsepower and for how long.

Offline kiwi belly tank

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #275 on: April 05, 2019, 02:36:51 PM »
John, a pressurized heat exchanger in a non-pressurized tank is the way to go but an air cooled radiator due to it's shape is often not the right choice. A/C condensers have a better packaging shape, heater cores could also work & there are some side mount type turbo intercoolers that would work well too. Mounting it with the core fins vertical will allow thermosiphon action to improve efficiency. If you have a space issue, pumping the secondary water to another tank will give you more capacity & the ability to bleed more temp off through that plumbing as well.
  Sid.

Offline Sumner

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #276 on: April 05, 2019, 07:46:42 PM »


Ours wasn't all that expensive to make and one could be made smaller on the same principle ...

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/Hooley%202013/13%20-%20hooley-construction-2013-13.html

I do have a TIG welder though.  So far it has worked very well.  Thank you Sparky for introducing us to the concept.

Sumner

Offline Glen

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #277 on: April 05, 2019, 08:27:51 PM »
Sun are you back and working on the car now???
Glen
Crew on Turbinator II

South West, Utah

Offline Sumner

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #278 on: April 05, 2019, 09:23:25 PM »
Sun are you back and working on the car now???

No.  In the Bahamas now...

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/anyone-in-the-bahamas-from-here-now.195838/

Will be back to FL maybe 1st of May and home later in the month.  In the process of making a small camp trailer that will haul us and a dirt bike on the tongue and a 4 wheeler ATV behind the living area.  Got the trailer built need to put the small living quarters on it when we get home.  Hope all is well with you  :-).  Come visit us  :-)

Sum

Offline John Burk

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #279 on: April 06, 2019, 12:48:58 AM »
Boil off coolant tanks have been discussed here . Like a radiator in a tank but the radiator boils the tank water . About 1/10th the tank volume needed compared to a conventional water tank . The pressurized engine water would warm quickly but not overheat . Haven't found in my notes yet who uses that system .

Offline ggl205

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #280 on: April 06, 2019, 08:20:21 AM »
John, I used an old Formula Ford front mount radiator from my Lola. It passed a pressure test so I ignored all the dings and dents. I would attach photos but all my image files are too large and for some reason, I can not reduce them. Anyway, it appears you have a finished solution so you are all set.
 
BTW, add some water wetter to radiator and tank water. It will Keep your water about 25 degrees cooler. I use Hy-Per Lube. It is non flamible but is the same color as ethyl glycol so bring a bottle to tech inspection if they ask.

John
« Last Edit: April 06, 2019, 09:12:34 AM by ggl205 »

Offline ronnieroadster

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #281 on: April 06, 2019, 03:47:39 PM »
Terry, thanks for the heads up.

The universe answered me with a drag car outfit (UK based) that brings parts in from the USA and can help with the tyres at a reasonable rate but I need to do a quick doubletake per your comment. The wheels are Centreline ConvoPros and although not manufactured anymore I purchased a new set of wheels with secondhand Goodyears on them (a teams spare wheels, they were selling up).

I have also seen these wheels come up periodically on US fleabay with the 22 x 2.5 x 17 Goodyears mounted on them so had assumed the wheels and tires are compatible.

I will speak to Goodyear before I order.

 :cheers: John




    John
       The correct Goodyear front tire to run is the Top Fuel Dragster tire. Goodyear has two dragster front tires one for the smaller econo type rails and the one for the big boys top fuel.  Not sure which one your thinking about the top fuel front tire will handle 700 pounds weight per tire not sure what that is in metric. We run that type of tire on the salt and runways so far with great success using spindle mount wheels
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Offline Lemming Motors

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #282 on: April 07, 2019, 01:08:46 AM »
Wayne
Correction noted. Rochen was his twin brother, played in a band, the Cars I think  :-D

Many thanks for the rad / tank feedback (I/O, Sid, Sumner, John’s).
Space gives me tall and skinny for the rad. I like the idea of circulating the water in the tank to spread the heat sink load and those inlet/outlet/electric water pump parts would already be setup if a secondary reservoir was needed; simples.

RR; thanks for the Goodyear intel; do you know the D number of the front tyre on spindles that you refer to?

I am currently working on the gear shift linkage as that passes through the firewall and therefore affects the tank shape. Anyone have a few thou (15 to be precise) so I can use a sequential Quaife box instead of the stock H pattern?

John
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.

Offline Elmo Rodge

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #283 on: April 07, 2019, 08:25:33 AM »
John, I'm looking at the D2904 for my car. They are 4". The D1445 is 2.5". I think that's what Ronnie was referring to.  :cheers:
P.s; Was that "Rockin' Rochen"? (ouch)
Wayno

Offline Lemming Motors

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Re: UK Lakester build G/GL
« Reply #284 on: April 07, 2019, 11:17:36 AM »
D1445 was what I had in mind. 

The ones that came on the rims are D1121 but may have been superseded. They have some sidewall hairline cracks; black boot polish will fix those, I’ve watched Fastest Indian.
John
A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.