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Author Topic: UK Lakester build G/GL  (Read 14750 times)
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Rex Schimmer
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« Reply #165 on: December 07, 2018, 03:21:30 PM »

John,
One of the things I suggest for cooling systems is to use a 3 way thermostat. I suggest using the mid 80s BMW 320 I unit. I happen to have one in my hand right now and the MFG/PN is: Vernet V2020-71. The advantage of the 3 way configuration is that as the engine is warming up the water in the engine is constantly circulated through the engine until the thermostat temp is reached and then coolant from the cooling tank is allowed to flow to the engine. As opposed to a normal thermostat that simple restricts or stops any water from circulating through the engine until it opens at it's rated temp. Many (most?) of the standard 2 way thermostats have a small hole in them to allow some circulation until they open. I am a big supporter of using a thermostat as they give much better engine temp control than no thermostat or some type of orifice.

Rex
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Rex

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kiwi belly tank
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« Reply #166 on: December 07, 2018, 08:48:17 PM »

I don't believe I've ever seen a production engine equipped with a mechanical pump that didn't have a bypass built into the system allowing coolant to circulate prior the thermostat opening allowing valve seat cooling during warm up & preventing pump cavitation. A thermostat (restriction) in the system allows the pump to create block pressure, not to be confused with cooling system pressure, to help the heat transfer from the engine to the fluid. This is why in many situations you will see an engine run hotter without a thermostat or restriction. Most heavy engines actually have two thermostats at different temps to cope with the extreme range of conditions. I have truckers ask me to remove the thermostats because they're running hot but that only makes the problem worse. It's simple enough to hook up a pressure gauge to the engine to check if the pump is making block pressure.
I believe the automotive three way thermostat is used in conjunction with a twin core radiator where it uses one section for cold climates & both for hot. The double pass radiator is a different animal again.
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ggl205
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« Reply #167 on: December 07, 2018, 10:09:38 PM »

Hopefully you have been reading a lot of other build diaries and ingesting all the cooling information out there.  We never used a thermostat until we ran a Busa motor and in a rush, didn't take it out... our cooling improved dramatically... I strongly recommend running one.  In a lakester the best you can hope for is water in a tank that stays close to ambient before you run.  We warm up until the water out hose is hot and then let the motor heat soak. We have a 5 gallon water tank... so far it has been enough but we are close to needing more.... and yes, I think I'm leaving room for a couple more gallons in the future...

Or maybe a radiator in your 5 gallon tank? We ran a pressurized ten gallon tank in the first lakester and always worried about over pressurizing that tank. This restricted pressure to 7 psi and would have liked to up that pressure to around 15 psi. This was accomplished in the new car with a radiator in the tank.

John
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