Galvanised Chassis?

[Ron Gibson]

"the guy who resurrects"  If anyone is going to do that, they have to get over "SALT FEVER" first. I've never heard of anyone being cured permanently without relapses.

Ron

[manta22]

I'd recommend using an epoxy primer after sandblasting. I used a 2-part zinc chromate epoxy primer from Aircraft Spruce and a polyurethane topcoat on my chassis. It hasn't been on the salt yet, though.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[Ron Gibson]

If/when you have to make a change to the chassis, powder coating is a real bear to get off enough to weld properly and difficult or impossible to paint to match. With Neil's solution, touching up is a piece of cake.

Ron

[ggl205]

You mite look at Rust Rocket (RR) too. I used it on a rusted rear deck of my auto and has not displayed any sign of rust since (over four years). RR says it is good for more than ten years. Not sure how long it would last on virgin steel. One downside; it is a bit too thick to spray. Maybe it could be thinned but not sure what it would do to properties. Some that have used POR15 say RR is better.

John

[Stan Back]

I've successfully used a product called Hammerite "Rust Cap".  It's made for industrial equipment (rusted or not) and was designed to use in the field.  It's very thick and can be brushed on (although they also sell spray cans -- it doesn't go on as easy or thick) and dries and sets up to a "hammered metal" finish.

I can't get it in California any longer.  I bought it at an industrial supply supply house and later Home Depot carried it.  It was available in about six finishes -- a couple of grays, black, aluminum and bronze.  I used a couple of colors on all the chassis parts not chromed plus the roll cage.  It's easy to use and didn't present any problems when we modified the cage after a couple of years.

It's held up for 15 years -- I think it's a great product if still available.

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Stan, are you ill or something?  Everything okay?

You appear to have made an entire post without calling someone a dorky name or being a snot at a non-roadster guy or something.  This just ain't you.

Whatsamatta?

[4-barrel Mike]

[Stan Back]

Well, it needs to be well ventilated -- so I'd guess it wouldn't work on coupes.

[Bob Drury]

   Out of respect for the Newbie from Down Unda, I refrained from saying this earlier.
   Now that the sites two "Official Grammatical Dictators" have spoken (They being Mr. Slim and Mr. Back) I would like to announce that Galvanize is the proper spelling according to Webster's New World Dictionary.  One wonders how much they have now forgotten.
                                                                                      Zank You Very Much,
                                                                                                Oldz One Run, out.....................................................
                                                                                                       

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Bob, you know as well as I do that I remember a good many things from the 60s and 70s.  Dozens of things, I bet.

And one of 'em is that it's very common for Brits and others to use an n"s" instead of a "z" when spelling words such as "galvanis/ze".  Out of courtesy to a newcomer that obviously had a valid question that I thought should be posed undisturbed I didn't mention the error of his ways -- posting in the landracing.com Forum with first receiving written permission from Stan and or me to use alternate spellings.

Will they never learn, Stan?  Okay, everyone else -- coffee break is over -- back on your heads.

[55chevr]

I did finish paint a race bike 3 times ... never planned on welding it again either

[Crackerman]

Another consideration to take into account is that galvanizing is "slick". If you have 2 fretting surfaces that are dependent on friction to stay put, it will not.