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Author Topic: Belly Tank Build Diary  (Read 57703 times)
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Skip Pipes
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« Reply #15 on: April 08, 2015, 03:13:24 PM »

Super work.

Really like the frame material. Keep a picture of the cut frame section in a binder with your logbook. That way if you’re asked about material thickness where the cage is welded, you have a picture for reference.

SP
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kiwi belly tank
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« Reply #16 on: April 08, 2015, 03:19:56 PM »

Smooth LSR tires won't work on blacktop or concrete, they don't have enough rubber on them & won't take the heat.
  Sid.
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« Reply #17 on: April 08, 2015, 05:46:13 PM »

Mike, are you going "inside" or will your head be sticking out?  Wayno
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Mike Brown
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« Reply #18 on: April 08, 2015, 05:54:37 PM »

The cockpit is designed for a sit up position.  My head will be just high enough out of the body for safe forward vision.  I am running the dual mass dual disk LSA clutch.  (photo attached) The clutch release is from Tilton.  I have used these with great success. 


* Clutch.jpg (92.95 KB, 720x960 - viewed 216 times.)
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Mike Brown
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« Reply #19 on: April 08, 2015, 06:08:19 PM »

I have certifications for all of the material that I am purchasing for the build.  I have attached a photo of the beginning of the roll cage (excuse the poor quality of the photo).  The cage components were purchased from SW Race Cars.  Woody stopped by this evening to offer his advice.  Woody is a wealth of knowledge. 


* Cage Small.JPG (198.49 KB, 816x612 - viewed 402 times.)
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Mike Brown
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« Reply #20 on: April 08, 2015, 06:13:44 PM »

Attached is a photo of the frame in process.  I find it much easier to TIG weld when the frame can be positioned so I don't have to stand on my head.  I use a small overhead hoist on a monorail in my shop.  The monorail has pivot on the wall side so I can swing it from side to side. 


* Frame Small.jpg (101.13 KB, 960x720 - viewed 370 times.)
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Jack Gifford
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« Reply #21 on: April 08, 2015, 11:38:16 PM »

I like the frame. It appears to use the [limited] space to best advantage.
A sprung front axle needn't be terrible aerodynamically. My lakester has cross-over linkage and coil-over shocks inside the body, leaving just the radius rods out "in the air". [The worst aero part of my front end are the good-sized disc brakes; I'm considering ditching them, then I could run inboard wheel discs.]
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« Reply #22 on: April 10, 2015, 11:25:03 AM »

I will not be running front brakes.  I machined the brake rotor portion off of the hubs to have less hanging out in the air stream. 


* Machining Hubs.JPG (125.27 KB, 640x480 - viewed 242 times.)
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« Reply #23 on: April 10, 2015, 09:52:21 PM »

Great job Mike. cheers cheers cheers
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Mike Brown
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« Reply #24 on: April 15, 2015, 06:32:54 AM »

I ordered rims yesterday.  I plan to run Moon discs and wanted to weld tabs for Dzus fasteners to the rims as well as fully welding the centers.  These rims come standard with a powder coat finish.  I prefer to not weld powder coated steel.  Most powder coating shops can burn the powder coating off for a fee.  I contacted Cragar and they were able to supply their "69" series rims with a bare finish.  They also make this rim in a 4-1/2" width for Goodyear Land Speed Tires.  The rims cost less than $60/ea from Jegs. 


* Cragar 69 Series.jpg (80.39 KB, 300x281 - viewed 160 times.)
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Dr Goggles
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« Reply #25 on: April 15, 2015, 06:53:13 AM »

Its just me but I reckon salt and powder coating don't mix.

Use alkyd resin, it's repairable, adheres better and doesn't hide corrosion creep.
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« Reply #26 on: April 15, 2015, 07:56:56 AM »

Rustoleum rattle can primer--- my frame paint of choice---- but then I have been accused of building UGLY CARS   grin
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« Reply #27 on: April 15, 2015, 08:44:35 AM »

I totally believe in rust paint as opposed to powdercoat. I use powdercoating in a lot of the projects I build where they'll never be reworked but race cars don't fall in that category. As a weldor I find two part paints and powdercoating to be much more difficult to repair and then the recoating is much more difficult and expensive and the repair/modification shows up more.

Pete
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« Reply #28 on: April 15, 2015, 09:42:43 AM »

I also like the Rust-O-Leum product line.  Their rusty metal primer has great adhesion.  I have also been accused of building "ugly" cars.  My daughter told me no more flat black projects so I have switched to semi-gloss!
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« Reply #29 on: April 17, 2015, 08:27:34 AM »

The roll cage is coming along.  I am pleased with the LSA engine package.  With supercharger and intercooler the entire package will fit in the body without the need for any alteration. 


* Roll Cage 2.JPG (261.49 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 375 times.)
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