... might see an Ackerman problem...
For the limited steering range needed for LSR, I suspect that any amount of Ackerman would work- positive, zero, or negative. [Other than tire scrub while moving around, into/out-of hauler, etc.]
My thoughts too. I think we'll be fine. Gimme a bit, we'll get this going.
Next steps, for those that want to know.
1. Cut the hatch for the engine & trans, set aside to use as mold for the fiberglass engine hatch. Then use the cut out hatch & other cutouts to patch back up the rear end hole... more on that later. Gotta keep the structural integrity of the tube... The rear patch panels could be integrated into the rear axle mounts as well, we'll see what happens. I dunno yet.
2. Put junker engine & trans inside for weight (my buddy owns a transmission shop... has some spares I can use)
3. Drop 50 or so extra lbs into the front it for weight.... and myself.
4. Build mock up of the inner mount for the front spring in the nose. Basically, it's a half circle of 1/4 in steel inside the nose with a flat section for the spring mount.
5. Add spacers until it just barely lifts the tube off the front axle... (sitting/resting in the preliminary notches)
6. Mark the places things rub or movement is needed.
7. Pull it all off, grind out the needed areas for movement.
8. Build the real mount, or just wing it with the mock-up.
9. Create decent looking inserts/patch covers for the ugly holes out of aluminum, rivet it into place.
10. Put it all back together.
11. Hit it with a hammer a few times... LOL.. Makes it look used.
12. Smile.
13. Crack a beer.
14. On beer 2, think about steering...
In my driveway,
Kelly Wood