2nd 100cc APS build

[Speed Limit 1000]

The brown packing tape works good as a release. Nothing seams to stick to it and the 3M 77 spray also works great to glue the foam together.

[sofadriver]

The brown packing tape works good as a release. Nothing seams to stick to it and the 3M 77 spray also works great to glue the foam together.

Thanks John. I tried the 3m 77 and others but the large foam panels weren't perfectly flat enough to get large contact areas. Good old roll on contact cement did the trick. Holy adequate ventilaton, Batman!!

[55chevr]

I have used Liquid Nails when assembling a plug ... you cannot get it near the edges as it sets up pretty hard and tough to shape ...

[sofadriver]

Liquid nails............wish I'd thought of that.

[tauruck]

You're right. Ive got one. Dont think I could do this without it. I'd sure like to find one that was deeper, though.

That is the only draw back. I use it in full, mark the area halfway on both the gauge and plug. Then do the same on cardboard.
Move the gauge starting at the mark and reset. Then transfer to the cardboard and cut a template/profile.
I think you're probably doing something similar anyway.

This stuff isn't easy but the rewards are awesome. You're doing great. I'm subscribed.

[sofadriver]

On wood ribs and panels in the boats I've restored, I've always just used a compass (or any old stick with a marker taped to it) to copy shapes. That way I can sand my way down to a perfect fit. Can't do that here because one "oops" and it's all over.   Besides, these contour gauges are so much easier.

http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Step-By-Step/FH02NOV_SCRIBI_10.JPG
BTW, one neat thing about this old technique is that you can substitute a rod of almost any length for the compass. On my current boat I had to copy the shape of one of the hull ribs below deck and couldn't get the plywood I was copying onto closer than about 36" from the rib. The rib section was about 40" tall. I just taped a marker at the 36" mark of a stick and copied it. You just have to keep the stick (compass) at a constant level the whole way.

[sofadriver]

I got the belly pan done today and used foam in a can to fill the openings around all my foam blocks. No matter how hard you try, you can't control that stuff. It's just a gooey mess. Fortunately it cuts to shape easily and it really locked in the blocks. Looks weird, huh?

I'm going to have to paint this foam before I can apply the aluminum tape. The tape won't hold on this type of foam.  

The paint marks are where I checked both sides with the contour gauge. I got both sides to match at those lines and then sanded any imperfections down to the paint lines. The sides are as close to symmetrical as I'm ever going to get them.

[bones]

Hey Sofa

   Don't let the finished plug stand in the sun.
  The spray foam has much more air in it and it will blister.
  I used the same method using surfboard  foam and spray foam with a layer of body filler  to give a smooth surface.
 While I was talking to the fiberglass guy the plug blistered all over. I assume from the air expanding in the foam.

    cheers   Bones

[tauruck]

Good advice Bones.

Hey Mike, the Spray 77 is OK with Poly but remember you need very little.

[sofadriver]

These tips are great, guys.
I always say I may not know much - but I know who to ask!   

[sofadriver]

Got the top fairing sanded to final shape. 

I shaped and rough sanded the section between the top fairing and the bottom. That curve in the pic, and how it's going to mesh with the front fender, is the only part of this build that I haven't been able to see in my head (you know, while I'm sitting on the can planning all this ). Now that I can see it in the flesh it seems to be coming out well and should be slippery. The taper stops at that curved mark. I'd like to hear any opinions on this, please.

[tauruck]

I don't really understand what you're getting at about the curve
but what you've done so far is as professional a job as I've seen.

It will come to you.

Pro job Mike.

[bones]

Sofa
   You're doing it wrong ( sitting on the can )
  You need the special thinking stool and a beer and sit and look at the bike---   eventually it will tell you what is needed
  Some times it takes a few beers
  
   With the latest picture and the email I think you are on a winner
   Are you going to use a water tank or a radiator?

    Bones

[generatorshovel]

Sofa
   You're doing it wrong ( sitting on the can )
  You need the special thinking stool and a beer and sit and look at the bike---   eventually it will tell you what is needed
  Some times it takes a few beers
  
   With the latest picture and the email I think you are on a winner
   Are you going to use a water tank or a radiator?

    Bones

Yep, a milk crate works for me

[Koncretekid]

I can't really tell where your head will be when you're in riding position, but from your post # 43, it looks like the front of your helmet is just about in line with a vertical line at the back of the front wheel.  Are you sure your bodywork is not going to enclose part of your head, which is not permitted?  And the further back you position your body and head, the less peripheral vision you will have which can get confusing at speed. Otherwise, it looks like you've nailed the perfect shape so far.
Tom