2nd 100cc APS build

[tauruck]

PITA is the governing body of all things composite.

I'm not sure if this tweak works with Polyester but check it out.
It works with Epoxy. Get some Brown Vinegar and mix it with 10% warm water.
Wash the parts repeatedly, wiping vigorously and then let them stand for 1 hour.
Wash off with clean water and you should be able to laminate the next layers without sanding.

Like I said, it works with Epoxy but I hope for your sake it does for Polly.
Let me know.

Mike.
BTW, well done brother. You're a star.

[MattGuzzetta]

I love/hate composites!  You are using the same idea with the foam and aluminum tape I have stolen from someone in my past, works great.   Sanding the insides of the parts are always a problem, but the end results are worth it when runnin on salt.  The stuff is easy to clean, doesn't rust or dent (within reason), is light (usually) and you can do complex shapes much easier than metal.   The fastening thing can be done a bunch of ways and Hartwell makes great aircraft latches (costly unless surplus).  Dzus bought a company, Southco that makes some pretty clever fasteners and latches.  They make some fast leadscrew captive fasteners that may have some use, here is a link to their site,
http://www.southco.com/en-us/09-12-17?hid=7346&filters=
Check out their line, there is a great structual panel latch they make that could make a engine cover into a structual component, link here:
http://www.southco.com/en-us/r2-r5
One of the uses for this latch is for assembling radar domes and some helicopter pieces I think. We used them as a production part for clamping guitar case sides and they worked well indeed.
You, and others are doing some great composite pieces, congrats!
Matt Guzzetta

[sofadriver]

Thanks, Matt, but I think I'm just going to keep it simple on the fasteners.   Most all will be easily accessible from both sides using both hands so I'll just use non-captive rubber well nuts and truss head machine screws.  They screw down easy by hand and never come loose.  I have plenty on hand and it's not another day long project.

I finished up my reinforcements on the inside of the body yesterday and made the final cut to position the rear edge of the upper fairing.  The tail is now cut to the final length, too.

I rolled it outside so I could see it for the first time from more than 6 feet away.  
The pink foam board over the front tire is the proposed fender.

[tauruck]

Congratulations Mike.

You've done an awesome job in record time under lousy conditions.
Two of my favourites standing together. a 2 stroke race bike and a Ducati.

You're an inspiration IMHO.

[55chevr]

Low speed and stopping can be an issue with laydown bikes.  Make sure you can get your legs and feet out of the cutouts easily.  I found this to be a problem as you approach stopping.   I ride an open lay bike and found this to be a concern. 

[sofadriver]

Low speed and stopping can be an issue with laydown bikes.  Make sure you can get your legs and feet out of the cutouts easily.  I found this to be a problem as you approach stopping.   I ride an open lay bike and found this to be a concern. 

Got it. Ive built in a horizontal ledge behind  the openings so I cant get my legs caught between the frame and fairings. I dont like falling down.

[lsrjunkie]

I dig it Sofa! 

I am planning on using your foam idea to smooth out the buck I made for my front end. I just hope my 'glass work turns out as good as yours did!

[sofadriver]

I dig it Sofa! 

I am planning on using your foam idea to smooth out the buck I made for my front end. I just hope my 'glass work turns out as good as yours did!

If you're talking about spray foam in cans, be aware the it doesn't sand easy like the foam blocks/ sheets.  It has a more rubbery consistency.  I found it easiest to cut it to shape with a razor knife.  I use the ones that have the snap-off sections.  You get a 4" blade that way.  With a little practice you'll get pretty darn good at it.  Also, don't try to fill large areas with it.  The outside will cure leaving the insides an uncured and gooey mess.  The stuff cures with moisture so I spritz it with water to make it cure faster.  When I don't finish off a can, I lay the can on it's side and shoot out a small ball of the stuff and leave the tube and can stuck in it undisturbed.  After that ball cures you can store it for weeks, pull off the ball, pull off the tube and run a coat hanger thru it to push out any cured stuff and you're good to go.  The stuff is cheap but gets expensive if you just use a little and then throw the rest away.  The canned foam works really good for locking the foam pieces together.

Also, I found a spray contact glue that doesn't eat any foam - Elmers Fast Tack. Bonds in 15 seconds, too.

Be sure to cover your buck completely so no resin gets to (and eats!) the foam.  I use that aluminum tape because it seals really well, is super sticky, holds it's own shape and will lay down super flat if you rub it with something (like the side of a magic marker).  When they built the Buddfab streamliner body they covered their foam with 3 coats of gloss latex house paint, release waxed it and laid their glass right over it!   I don't have the nerve to try it. 

Good luck. 

[sofadriver]

I put a coat of 2 part primer filler on after work so I could gauge the overall situation of the body.  All looks good so I'm going to leave the final finishing until it gets mounted (hopefully next week). 

While sitting there watching the primer dry I finally came up with a good plan (I hope) to easily mount the windshield flush with the body.  Not as easily done as one might think.  Anyway, it needs to wait until everything else is hard mounted.

I'll get started on the front fender tomorrow. 

[Rex Schimmer]

Mike,
I am SOOOO impressed with the way your body has turned out, looking at the outer finish it really is pretty smooth and a little bondo and some sanding it will be super. I am pretty much a "metal beater" kind of guy but after watching your build I am really considering going with glass on my lakester. Can't wait to see it finished at the salt.

On the windshield are you planning to form some .06 alum strips then bond/pop rivet to the inside of the opening so that you can attach the windshield to it? I would think that 1/16 lexan would be more than thick enough and much easier to work with.

Rex 

[MattGuzzetta]

Wow, that body is coming along nicely!  Are you using a bubble windscreen, or are you going to do a flat wrap?  If you can mount  the windscreen flush in the cutout you could just glass a strip behind it and have a perfect fit.   We did that on the  Don's (Vesco) liner to get a flush fit. It is also possible with a flat wrap to make a dummy and  add a lip to the outside to get the fit flush against the outside skin and then you can do a glass edge on the backside to fit.  There is a bunch of different ways to do the flush fit, whatever you are most comfortable with will work!  You are doing a great job in a short time, congrats!

[sofadriver]

Thanks, guys.
The windshield will be a 1/16 Lexan wrap (cheap and easy) and probably held with truss head screws with nylon washers and rubber well nuts from the back (just screwed on by hand not set into the body).  It will have a little "give" to it that way.  To make it flush I'm going to sand the upper and lower mounting surfaces, as you see them now, until they are perfectly aligned (to avoid any waviness in the Lexan).  Then mask off and mount the shield.  Then bring the body surface up to the level of the shield with a layer of glass mat that feathers into the surface of the nose (scissor cut on one edge, torn on the other) .  A quick sanding and a skim coat of Bondo and that should be it.   Sure beats trying to set the shield down to the body level.
Sound like a plan?

[MattGuzzetta]

Sounds like a plan! With only a 1/16 inch thickness, it will work easier than if you had to fit a bubble. 
Looking good, I love the small streamlined stuff!
Matt Guzzetta

[sofadriver]

I wrapped a 100' extension cord around the front wheel. This will give about 5/16 clearance all around the tire so the rest of the front fender should go pretty easy.   Took 2 hours!   A new PITA  benchmark!

[Koncretekid]

In my opinion, you'll need to make a curved tool that you can use between the fender and the tire to clean out the salt, that is if you can make a full run before the tire binds due to the salt build-up.