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Author Topic: 2nd 100cc APS build  (Read 93594 times)
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sofadriver
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« Reply #195 on: March 31, 2015, 11:49:04 PM »

Weird feeling tearing up all the hard work hey Mike?. grin

Actually, it's a relief knowing the hardest part is over. There's lots left to do but the basic shape is there so it's all downhill from here.

I've cut the rear edge of the front fairing back to just shy of its final position and marked the final cut lines to remove it from the bike.  After agonizing for an hour about the best place to cut, I finally just made my cut line where it looked OK.  I've found that the easiest way to mark lines around curved shapes is to use 1/4" tape to establish the line, dust it with spray paint and cut on the paint line.  I'll be cutting on the top line of the tape.  Note the red alignment marks.  Before I remove the lower fairings from the buck I'm going to glass in some panel alignment flaps from the inside.  Last time I used metal tabs to hold two panels together and in place.  They worked OK but not very "pro".



* 2015-03-31 19.57.17.jpg (141.43 KB, 640x480 - viewed 133 times.)
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Mike in Tacoma

"aww, what the hell - let's just do it".............

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tauruck
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« Reply #196 on: April 01, 2015, 12:25:04 AM »

You're a natural.

I really enjoy every post.

The only advice I have is to bond any metal bits to the glass with a good Epoxy adhesive
even if you're bolting or riveting. cheers

Use peel rivets where you can but not where you could have body contact.
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sofadriver
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« Reply #197 on: April 01, 2015, 12:35:17 AM »

Mike, got any Dzeus fastener tips?
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Mike in Tacoma

"aww, what the hell - let's just do it".............

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« Reply #198 on: April 01, 2015, 12:43:44 AM »

They work great but I'm not crazy about them. Too many iffy little bits.

For road course I'd say go for it but for LSR go the route Carbonite (Rob Frey)
took. He used coarse thread CS machine screws. Simpler and better.

Just my opinion though. Check it out.
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donpearsall
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« Reply #199 on: April 01, 2015, 09:18:10 AM »

Well I learned something new. I did not know what you meant by peel rivets so I looked them up. I did not know there was such a thing. For my fiberglass bodywork I had been using pop-rivets a lot, but peel-rivets have more bearing surface for the fiberglass. I will get some and see how they work.

Thanks for the tip Tauruck!

Don
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sofadriver
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« Reply #200 on: April 01, 2015, 09:48:28 AM »

 shocked those peel rivets are great. Theres a video on YouTube.
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Mike in Tacoma

"aww, what the hell - let's just do it".............

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« Reply #201 on: April 01, 2015, 10:03:07 AM »

Glad I could help someone. cheers

I feel so good now.
I'm happy for you man.
Those normal rivets are nowhere when it comes to plastics. wink
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bak189
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« Reply #202 on: April 01, 2015, 10:04:52 AM »

Peel rivets are great....The "new type" F-1 road racing sidecars use a main center structure made out of square Moly and alum. plating........Peel rivets hold it all together...............works great with no problems....have used them for years..............don't buy the "cheap'" ones, get the good ones..............
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« Reply #203 on: April 01, 2015, 12:31:44 PM »

Peel rivets are good but I prefer Avex rivets with a back-up washer for fastening fiberglass.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
tauruck
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« Reply #204 on: April 01, 2015, 10:30:32 PM »

Neil, we all love your aviation skills and components.
You should start a thread in the tech section for us
showing how to use and what is best used where.

That would be awesome. cheers cheers cheers

We'd all benefit from your knowledge.
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sofadriver
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« Reply #205 on: April 01, 2015, 11:03:42 PM »

They work great but I'm not crazy about them. Too many iffy little bits.

For road course I'd say go for it but for LSR go the route Carbonite (Rob Frey)
took. He used coarse thread CS machine screws. Simpler and better.

Just my opinion though. Check it out.

Others have said this, too.
Probably best to go this route because it's easy, cheap and complies with the KISS rule.
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Mike in Tacoma

"aww, what the hell - let's just do it".............

Bike #833
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Rex Schimmer
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« Reply #206 on: April 02, 2015, 01:20:54 PM »

I certainly agree with Neal regarding using Avex rivets with a properly sized washer for fiberglass. Makes a lot neater job and the Avex rivet will pull things together very well. I am not sure that using counter sunk screws is a good way to secure panels that are installed and removed alot. I still prefer Dzus fastners, if you use the flat head style with the long under cut you can install the fastener through the panel and then slip a small "O" ring, I like to use viton material, over the fastener and it will retain the fastener to the panel. I worked on several GTP cars, Lola T600 and Indy cars, March 83G, that had a lot of panels retained with flat head screws and you soon found that you needed to have your 10-28 or 10-32 tap in your pocket to fix the threads that you screw up trying to get the fastener in, and you also spend a lot of time putting a taper on the screws so they can find the thread.

Rex
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sofadriver
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« Reply #207 on: April 02, 2015, 11:24:54 PM »

Thanks all. There's a very well stocked industrial fastener company just two miles from my shop.  I'm going to go check out all my options.
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Mike in Tacoma

"aww, what the hell - let's just do it".............

Bike #833
100cc A/G, A/F and APS/G (in 2019)
fordboy628
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« Reply #208 on: April 03, 2015, 06:25:38 AM »

I certainly agree with Neal regarding using Avex rivets with a properly sized washer for fiberglass. Makes a lot neater job and the Avex rivet will pull things together very well. I am not sure that using counter sunk screws is a good way to secure panels that are installed and removed alot. I still prefer Dzus fastners, if you use the flat head style with the long under cut you can install the fastener through the panel and then slip a small "O" ring, I like to use viton material, over the fastener and it will retain the fastener to the panel. I worked on several GTP cars, Lola T600 and Indy cars, March 83G, that had a lot of panels retained with flat head screws and you soon found that you needed to have your 10-28 or 10-32 tap in your pocket to fix the threads that you screw up trying to get the fastener in, and you also spend a lot of time putting a taper on the screws so they can find the thread.

Rex

x2

When I was at Cooke/Woods-Cooke Racing, these fastening methods on the T600 & T610 drove the mechanics nuts!!    And lots of replacing "stripped" inserts, what a pain in the a**.

Too bad the arrogant designers didn't have to work on their cars . . . . . .


Fordboy
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sofadriver
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« Reply #209 on: April 09, 2015, 11:08:37 PM »

............the carnage continues.

I'll be re-glassing some thin areas and reinforcing a couple others from the inside this weekend.  I'm rough sanding those areas for a good bond and, let me tell ya', sanding on the inside of these lightweight, curvy fiberglass pieces is a MAJOR PITA!  sad.  I've found that coarse 5" round, velcro-backed orbital sander paper on one of those little triangle "mouse" sanders to be the weapon of choice.  Works pretty good on the insides of corners but it's still a PITA.


* 2015-04-09 20.01.12.jpg (160.87 KB, 640x480 - viewed 140 times.)
« Last Edit: April 09, 2015, 11:10:15 PM by sofadriver » Logged

Mike in Tacoma

"aww, what the hell - let's just do it".............

Bike #833
100cc A/G, A/F and APS/G (in 2019)
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