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Author Topic: First time to Ohio running a Bike? Please read!  (Read 8447 times)
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MiltonP
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« on: September 20, 2014, 12:38:26 PM »

It is likely that if you are reading this post on Landracing.com that you have also been to www.ecta-lsr.com and seen references to our rulebook.  I am hoping that maybe some of you will copy this post to other sport bike forums so that folks who see posts there and come at the last minute realize that there is a core set of safety items that we, as in tech inspectors, need to see to get you on the track.  I really hate to see someone drive/ride hundreds of miles and not get to run.  I won't list everything here but I will try to hit the most difficult items to accomplish in Wilmington.  There will be a lot of bikes at this event and most, if not all, of our inspectors will also also be racing so there won't be an abundance of time for us to help you work on your bikes though we do our best to not have someone leave without being able to run.

1 - Metal chain guard - this should be 3/32nds steel or 1/8 alloy and securely mounted.  They are commercially available for popular supersports and are relatively simple to make for the older straight style swingarms but can be challenging for some newer designs.

2 - Tether kill switch - Relatively easy to install and splice inline with your button kill switch but you won't find it in the local bike shop.

3- Metal valve stems and caps with o-rings - probably stocked somewhere in Wilmington but then you need swap them out...

4 - Steering stabilizer - Want to go fatser than 130 mph?  You won't find one of these in a shop locally and may not be easy to mount on some less popular fully faired models.  My Super Blackbird is turning out to be a major challenge.

5 - Safety wiring on the axle nuts and pinch bolts up front- Relatively easy on-site but may consume a drill bit or two.

6 - Metal battery strap/tiedown - hose clamps are not what we are looking for.

7 - Safety gear - 8" leather boots, leather gauntlet gloves, one piece or full zipper connect 2 piece leathers with appropriate pads for the speed you hope to go which includes a real back protector at 175 and up.  

Those are just the basics that tend to trip up first time riders.  Please get and read the ECTA rule book.  We will work with you and try to help out if you are making a serious effort to be compliant but we can't let folks run showroom stock because not only do we care about our riders, we also want to keep running these events and getting event insurance is not easy.  Look forward to seeing you in tech.  Milt
« Last Edit: September 20, 2014, 12:56:59 PM by MiltonP » Logged
Warp12
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« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2014, 12:41:02 PM »

"Metal chain guard - this should be 1/8th steel or 3/16 alloy and securely mounted.  They are commercially available for popular supersports and are relatively simple to make for the older straight style swingarms but can be challenging for some newer designs."

3/16" aluminum?? Ridiculous.
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Joe Timney
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« Reply #2 on: September 20, 2014, 12:43:34 PM »

We put this page on the website a while back to help with this issue.
http://ecta-lsr.net/?page_id=2190

Milton, Thanks for trying to help out! We appreciate your efforts.
« Last Edit: September 20, 2014, 12:49:33 PM by Joe Timney » Logged

Joe Timney
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Warp12
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« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2014, 12:44:55 PM »

We put this page on the website a while back to help with this issue.
http://ecta-lsr.net/?page_id=2190

"If the guard is made of steel it must be at least

3/32 in. thick, or if aluminum, at least 1/8 in. thick. Guards must be securely mounted in at least

two places."

Sounds better.

Shane
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MiltonP
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« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2014, 12:48:31 PM »

Yes,  Sorry on the thickness error.  I fixed it in the original post.  Also added metal battery strap/tie down.  And yes thanks Joe for pointing out the page on our site.  The main thing is for folks who run Ohio that frequent the other forums please post a link to that page in thos forums if you get a chance.  I am sure no matter what we do we will have someone show who missed it all but maybe...   smiley
« Last Edit: September 20, 2014, 12:53:37 PM by MiltonP » Logged
Seldom Seen Slim
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« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2014, 01:15:24 PM »

Milton P. said:    "4 - Steering stabilizer - Want to go fatser than 130 mph?  You won't find one of these in a shop locally and may not be easy to mount on some less popular fully faired models.  My Super Blackbird is turning out to be a major challenge."

Have you tried the GRS or Scotts rotary stabilisers?  We've used them on every bike we've raced, from the nitrous ZX12R to the little Ninja Turbo 250.  Not all that difficult to mount - and no issues with trying to get it attached and inside the fairing.
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Jon E. Wennerberg
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manta22
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« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2014, 02:31:07 PM »

I have a couple of steering stabilizers (dampers) off some sort of airplane -- free if anyone wants them.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
MiltonP
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« Reply #7 on: September 20, 2014, 02:32:55 PM »

Way back when there was an Ohlins mount that someone matched with a Scotts damper but it isn't available and there isn't much top work with between the tank and triple tree.  We have the tank off and were looking for potential mounting points to work with but nothing there.  If I had a rotary to play with we might work something out but it doesn't look promising.

The only solution I have found involves using a hydraulic tube damper mounted to the left fork and a custom mount off the left side frame.  It requires a small hole through horizontal fairing filler but that can be done neatly.  Later Blackbirds had a tube mount under the lower triple but it is super tight under there so we looking for a solution up top.
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MiltonP
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« Reply #8 on: September 20, 2014, 04:58:46 PM »

Just found out that BRG in California used to offer one for a Scotts and can make me one! Funny thing is they are also one of the few shops that also used to make specialty performance parts for my EX500.  I should have contacted them earlier though the Scotts can be expensive so I may have had to wait past this event to complete the acquisition anyways.
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sabat
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« Reply #9 on: September 21, 2014, 08:00:27 AM »

Thanks Milt. Didnt the ecta stop requiring wired pinch bolts? Dean
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MiltonP
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« Reply #10 on: September 21, 2014, 09:07:46 AM »

We were still looking for them at the last event, noting where there wasn't a twisted section between the bolts. While I suppose it is possible that there would not be an immediate negative effect on some modern sportbikes by them loosening, I do believe it could be a serious issue on some of the older forks or those not built with the same level of precision that run in many classes.

Loosening bolts almost got me in a bad way when I first started running the EX500 in Maxton.  The two upper bolts holding the front of the belly pan came off on the return road causing the front of the pan to drop and start tapping the pavement.  That could have been a lot worse if it happened at speed even on a 125 mph bike.  Luckily, the tarmac is a lot smoother in Wilmington but that can give folks a false sense of security.
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sabat
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« Reply #11 on: September 21, 2014, 11:59:31 AM »

For sure its a good idea, but i thought the ecta dropped it from the rulebook. I dont have my rulebook here.
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konon
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« Reply #12 on: September 21, 2014, 03:06:44 PM »

Two piece leathers, is the zipper full  or 270 degree?
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Sherman racing  M/PG 750
MiltonP
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« Reply #13 on: September 21, 2014, 08:09:19 PM »

270 degree is fine.
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Joe Timney
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« Reply #14 on: September 22, 2014, 08:07:30 AM »

konon,
Do you have a rule book?


Safety wiring, it's still a rule:
7.B.15 Wheel Retention:
All axle-retaining nuts, pinch bolts, axle caps and axles shall be safety wired or
otherwise secured by visually verifiable means. Lock washers, self-locking nuts or
thread-locking compounds do not meet this requirement.
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Joe Timney
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