NT788 Chassis Replacement Fabrication

[turborick]

Rick,
     Remember Mike and I would like to test too, let us know ahead of time so we can get the driver down here from Salem
Jim

Jim will let you know when we get closer

[fordboy628]

So far the car has been on the dyno for a month. been verifying sensors, wiring, programming the Racepak and building a tune.
seems like I need a bigger water brake for the dyno because the engine can over power the dyno at will, but it's or good enough for now.
we roll the car outside for testing so we don't asphyxiate everyone.

What sort of water inlet pressure to the absorber?    Higher inlet water pressure will increase the torque capacity, somewhat.

I think that you are correct in thinking the absorber is too small.    It appears to be an older Stuska or Go-Power. (?)   Absorber size needs to appropriate for the torque load to carry out full rpm range testing.

PM Harold Bettes.    He can give you the best advice on this.

 
Fordboy

[turborick]

So far the car has been on the dyno for a month. been verifying sensors, wiring, programming the Racepak and building a tune.
seems like I need a bigger water brake for the dyno because the engine can over power the dyno at will, but it's or good enough for now.
we roll the car outside for testing so we don't asphyxiate everyone.

What sort of water inlet pressure to the absorber?    Higher inlet water pressure will increase the torque capacity, somewhat.

I think that you are correct in thinking the absorber is too small.    It appears to be an older Stuska or Go-Power. (?)   Absorber size needs to appropriate for the torque load to carry out full rpm range testing.

PM Harold Bettes.    He can give you the best advice on this.

 
Fordboy

Its a Stuska 400. I have been able to load 700hp with it. I have the rear end geared at 1 to 1 so we are running the absorber at 9000rpm. with the pumps I have I make almost 50psi between the load valve and the absorber.

[jimmy six]

Rick, this mabe an odd question but since the chassis is new; is this considered a new car need needing a different LSR chassis # and possibly a different log book? It looks like you are using the same body and the #788  is yours so that's no big deal. I've considered replacing the frame rails on my roadster and wondered how that would effect the LSR chassis # and log book....every thing looks great...JD

[turborick]

Rick, this mabe an odd question but since the chassis is new; is this considered a new car need needing a different LSR chassis # and possibly a different log book? It looks like you are using the same body and the #788  is yours so that's no big deal. I've considered replacing the frame rails on my roadster and wondered how that would effect the LSR chassis # and log book....every thing looks great...JD

Hi Jimmy I had totally forgot about the LSR chassis number, I think I will need a different number but I have a call in to find out for sure.

[Seldom Seen Slim]

And, Rick -- tell me --- are those headers just an off-the-shelf item at your local O'Reilly's?  There's something just a tad unusual  looking about 'em.  Nice work on cramming stuff inside the body shell.

[johnneilson]

Rick,

If you are not overfilling the brake and not holding torque, verify the restrictor on the outlet in the bottom.

Sometimes they are eroded away and not holding the water.

John

[turborick]

And, Rick -- tell me --- are those headers just an off-the-shelf item at your local O'Reilly's?  There's something just a tad unusual  looking about 'em.  Nice work on cramming stuff inside the body shell.

Thanks Slim, yea just order up part # RYR-NT3.5-5834911 there only 12,999.99 each. Like most everything on a small streamliner you can't just call Jegs, you have to design and build with the forethought of everything else that wants to be in the same spot, those headers took 2 months of cutting, welding mocking up cussing, cutting apart over and over again until I had enough clearance for the body, able to get to the various nuts and bolts that attach it to the head for which there are 3 custom wrenches, able to service the spark plugs for which there are 4 different custom wrenches. there are 6 slip joints so the header hopefully wont try to brake it self apart. then build shielding and get them coated inside and out.   

[turborick]

Rick,

If you are not overfilling the brake and not holding torque, verify the restrictor on the outlet in the bottom.

Sometimes they are eroded away and not holding the water.

John

Thanks John Yes water is coming out of the vent, I put a valve on the bottom of the absorber to help tailor the dyno to different engines.
I figure we are just making more torque than the absorber can absorb. I have not been paying attention to HP numbers but I did see over 500ft-lb at 5000 rpm and almost 800hp at 7000rpm at only 10psi of boost, it is very hard to keep the engine from running away at that power level so I guess we will be tuning on the track.

[kiwi belly tank]

I think you might have rewritten the book on getting more than 10lb of $hit in a 5lb liner there Rick!
I have a friend that makes custom turbo & manifold heat blankets that will squeeze down to 1/4" in tight places & they're so good you can hold your hand on them any time. Looks like you could use some protection there.
  Sid.

[turborick]

here is the new universal can bus interface that Donny Cummins from racepak got us to test with the new AEM can protocol.
This interface is programmable to various different EFI systems.  

also a picture of the bigAss turbo and the drive by wire

[turborick]

I think you might have rewritten the book on getting more than 10lb of $hit in a 5lb liner there Rick!
I have a friend that makes custom turbo & manifold heat blankets that will squeeze down to 1/4" in tight places & they're so good you can hold your hand on them any time. Looks like you could use some protection there.
  Sid.

Thanks Sid do you have any contact info for your friend?
the 2 dzus tabs on the valve covers are for a stainless shield, I have a thin heat mat on the inside of the body that im not to happy with. maybe your friend has something to replace that.
I figure if I have to I can mist water on the body to keep it form burning.
I have several channels on the Racepak assigned to movable thermocouples so we can monitor items of interest.

[kiwi belly tank]

I've given out his info before on the forum & I believe Slim was ok with it then.
Turbo Performance Products
Levi @ 208-251-9141.
What is your engine, C/BF?
  Sid.

[turborick]

I've given out his info before on the forum & I believe Slim was ok with it then.
Turbo Performance Products
Levi @ 208-251-9141.
What is your engine, C/BF?
  Sid.

Thanks Sid the engine is E/BG

[turborick]

What do you do when nobody makes the ring and pinion you need?
grind off the old gear
turn the end of the shaft
and press on new gear