Author Topic: Welding a chevy diff  (Read 1903 times)

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Offline NICO10

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Welding a chevy diff
« on: March 26, 2014, 10:58:07 AM »
hi all now I know its not the best way to do things but if any one has done this or have pictures of it can you plz send them


many thanx

Offline fordboy628

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Re: Welding a chevy diff
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2014, 06:09:02 AM »
Sorry no photos.     Decades ago we used to do this as a last resort for sports car racing.    The procedure was:

1/  Disassemble and completely clean the diff carrier assembly.   Remove the ring gear and bolts for access to the side gears & differential pinions.    These parts should be cleaned as well.     Cleaning should be by "hot" tank (alkaline degreaser) rather than "solvent" tank.

2/  Re-assemble diff carrier; side (output) gears and any shims; the diff pinion gears, any shims & axle.   Use extra shims if possible to minimize backlash in the gear assembly and keep the side gear's internal splines aligned.

3/  If the diff carrier is cast iron, DO NOT WELD TO IT.   All welding should take place between the diff side gears & the diff pinion gears.    You want to weld the gears to each other to "block" their individual rotation.     You will need an air hardening filler wire/rod to prevent cracking as the weld cools, or with Tig you can use "bronze-rod".    I've seen Tig, Mig, and arc welding used.    You DEFINITELY want to preheat the gears with a torch prior to welding.     You want to fill the 8 spots where the gears intersect, locking them together, inside the diff carrier.

I have seen "bronze rod" used to Tig the side gears to an cast iron carrier.    By the time I saw them, they were usually cracked . . . . . . .

4/  Remove any weld splatter prior to installing the ring gear/installation in the pumpkin.     Any weld splatter that comes loose does bad things to the bearings/ring & pinion.

5/  Shazaam!!    Instant spool!!     The amount of torque it can handle depends on the strength of the parts and the quality of your welding.     Good for going in a straight line only, as turns now force one wheel/tire to skid.     Any turns should be as gradual as possible.   If it breaks in service, you usually get to replace the whole deal.   BTW, this method is really hard an axles . . . . . .

6/  Don't use this method for any kind of racing with turns as the tire drag causes SEVERE corner entry understeer, UNLESS, the driver "throws" the car around and "steers" with the throttle . . . . . .   fun in a Corvette,  a real pain in a Mini . . . . . . .
 :cheers:
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Offline floydjer

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Re: Welding a chevy diff
« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2014, 09:03:15 AM »
I used to weld the spider gears in my demolition derby cars.   Experience and an opinion in one sentence. :cheers:
I`d never advocate drugs,alcohol,violence or insanity to anyone...But they work for me.

Offline floydjer

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Re: Welding a chevy diff
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2014, 09:24:59 AM »
But...Have you researched "mini-spools" ? They relase the spidergears/shaft.  Same result for minimal cash.  JB.
I`d never advocate drugs,alcohol,violence or insanity to anyone...But they work for me.