Author Topic: '68 Camaro Pro-Street to LSR Conversion??? (Read 6413 times)

Scottie J · « **on:** March 22, 2014, 10:57:26 AM »

Just a quick question.

My business partner owns a '68 Pro Street Camaro that used to run 9's at the strip but has been sitting collecting dust in the pull shed for the last few years. It's too damn fast for the street (roughly 800HP) and hasn't been re-registered for some time for that reason. I'm thinking rather than just let it sit there collecting dust we should clean her up, tune her up, re-gear it for The Salt. What all would be involved to convert a drag car for The Salt? It is already gutted, caged and has a chute. Thanks!

Scottie J

dw230 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 22, 2014, 11:09:14 AM »

You need a rule book. The cage is more than likely wrong, NHRA legal? There is another bunch of stuff that needs to be done for the conversion.

DW

Sumner · « **Reply #2 on:** March 22, 2014, 11:12:15 AM »

I guess how much of the body is unaltered at this point would determine which class you would be eligible for. Would this be for fun or going for a record? Maybe not the best body if you are going for a record as I can't remember seeing people running with 1st gen Camaros although I'm sure someone has. The cage gets you part way there if it meets SCTA requirements but still lots of other car and driver safety gear that needs to be bought and the car/driver have to meet the requirements for the current record in the class the car will run even if you plan on less with the exception of the 150 mph club, but the car would run that pretty easily and then be done.

Hooley is a drag racer and the Stude was suppose to just run one year and then be a drag car. The reason for the tubs it still has in the back and the 3,000 lb. weight. That didn't work so a couple thousand pounds later and a car that will only see pavement at a mile track and never probably at the drag strip unless it is a test and tune. What I'm saying is that once you get serious with it for the salt it will be a salt car and have to be sold that way most-likely.

I'm not saying don't do just think it through and decide if you want to go racing on the salt if this is the car to put the money and time into. One of the biggest mistakes I see is that people have something they are attached to or have in the back yard and so that is the starting point. Not necessarily bad but not the right approach if you want to try and break the current record in a given class,

Sum

Scottie J · « **Reply #3 on:** March 22, 2014, 12:06:08 PM »

I was thinking more of doing it for fun than to actually go after a record. My thoughts were that if it wouldn't take much to make it legal to run on The Salt, then it might be fun to bring it out with my Chief and have 2 toys to play with. Next time I'm out to the shop I'll get some good pics of the chassis and cage.

Scottie J

jl222 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 22, 2014, 02:07:26 PM »

My friend, Dicky Griffin held the record in A/GALT [ unblown gas altered] at 229+ mph for several years in the 90s with that style Camaro.

  Big block injected chev, Cu.in max for A, was at 482 if I remember right, now at 500.99

  Dicky was a part time engine builder Bville and boat racer.

  If you make that much hp you should go close to that speed.

  It seems if chassis passes NHRA specks for 9 sec there should only be a few fixes for SCTA, probably gussets at tube junctions, but maybe you already have them.

  The roll cage pic, in rule book is confusing as it shows way more bracing than required. Call the SCTA before making a lot of changes, and deviations are considered.

  Also, engine might have to be detuned to last 5 miles.

   JL222

SteveM · « **Reply #5 on:** March 22, 2014, 02:51:27 PM »

Like someone said - you need to start with a rulebook. Figure out what class(es) you might want to run, and then modify the car to meet the rules.

If the roll cage tubing isn't up to SCTA standards, then you have a whole lotta work to make it legal.

The current (2013 rulebook) record for A/GALT is 251.xxx mph

The A/CGALT (classic gas altered) record is 246.xxx mph

Both of those records are a far cry from the 129+ mph that jl222's buddy held in A/GALT

jl222 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 22, 2014, 03:18:47 PM »

Quote from: SteveM on March 22, 2014, 02:51:27 PM

Like someone said - you need to start with a rulebook. Figure out what class(es) you might want to run, and then modify the car to meet the rules.

If the roll cage tubing isn't up to SCTA standards, then you have a whole lotta work to make it legal.

The current (2013 rulebook) record for A/GALT is 251.xxx mph

The A/CGALT (classic gas altered) record is 246.xxx mph

Both of those records are a far cry from the 129+ mph that jl222's buddy held in A/GALT

OOPS.... That was 229+ mph

JL222

Milwaukee Midget · « **Reply #7 on:** March 22, 2014, 06:16:23 PM »

The new books are starting to trickle out - I agree - get one.

And if you don't have the car ready for this year, anticipate changing something when next year's book comes out.

The guy who did my cage - an veteran drag racer - was stunned by what was required. In the end, he described his work as "an 8 second cage in a 16 second car".

I'm running on a 122 record. Just about any Camaro will be running in a class with a record over 200, so that's the standard you'll be expected to build to.

Get the book - anticipate upgrades - oh, and roof rails.

Speed Limit 1000 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 22, 2014, 06:44:25 PM »

Scottle, I am in SLC for the weekend. I can come by with my rule book next week if you have time we could look it over. Tires and a fire suit might be a major expense. The 150 club in September at the USFRA meet would be the cheapest
way to run for fun

Bob Drury · « **Reply #9 on:** March 22, 2014, 06:54:44 PM »

You need to start by backhalfing the frame or you are asking for trouble.
Why? Because your rear suspension mounts are too close to the centerline of the car and the rear end housing is way too narrow. I would also assume that you have a four link with a triangulated link on the lower bars. That is a no no on the Salt if your car weighs in the neghborhood of 4500# minimum (mine weighs 5200 and has run 239)
Cars with 800 h.p. don't allways go straight (I know...) and you want your wheels and suspension mounting points as far out as you can get them.

Plan B · « **Reply #10 on:** March 22, 2014, 06:55:57 PM »

USFRA World of Speed 150mph club.

www.saltflats.com

You get six passes on a two mile track.
You can run up to 159.9xxxxx, get a timeslip, and your name on the 'club' list.
From what you've written you're already legal, (*look at tire requirements*) or very close to it.
Rooms are a LOT cheaper in September, and it's a few degrees cooler.

For a fun run first trip it's a good first option.

Scottie J · « **Reply #11 on:** March 22, 2014, 08:35:18 PM »

Cool! Thanks for all the feed back.

Johnboy - Just let me know. The Pro Street is actually at the shop in Parker, maybe we can work something out one of these nights. You'd probably appreciate the '69 Yenko out there too.

Scottie J

thundersalt · « **Reply #12 on:** March 24, 2014, 04:25:15 PM »

Lot's of poo-pooing on your plan. The Fairlane we ran was a drag car that never was dragged. Tubbed, 9", 4 bar,
diag link (latter added a watts linkage) 850 hp and only spun twice (once from a blown rear tire and once wasn't me

) . I believe 1-5/8 x .120 is still ok just need to add to it.

Bob Drury · « **Reply #13 on:** March 24, 2014, 04:44:32 PM »

The problem with a diagonal link is that in a spin it puts side load forces on heim joints that they are not designed to take.
Over the years I have looked at several drag race cars that had wrecked and in most cases the diagonal link was either broken at the heim or the brackets tore loose from the lower link. With a narrow chassis, the Watts link is the way to go, if your rear frame rails are at least 36" on center, a panhard is the easiest to install.

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