You can retract shoes all the way, whereas discs tend to drag a bit.
You can eliminate the drag by spot facing the disc pads with a small drill bit and running springs to knock the pads back. This is very common on road race cars. Tony
Do you have more info on this as I'm having a hard time visualizing it?
Discs do drag and I've never liked that on the Stude. We've tried to pry them away before but it is a pain on that car and if the driver forgets just once in staging and presses the pedal that is lost. I'm going to try rear discs only on the lakester and since the calipers will be easier to get to, will pry them off but if the above will do that then I'm very interested.
Jon I'll have to disagree with you on the effects of salt on disc vs. drums. Way less parts with disc brakes. The year we ....
.... ran through the water at the end of the road I had to completely rebuild the rear drums on the truck but the front disc's survived. Most all boat trailers now that have brakes have gone from drums to disc. Lots of parts to rust up with the drums. The problem with the discs is when the rotors rust up and then drag even more. They do have stainless steel rotors available for boat trailer brakes.
The whole thing still comes down to what Sparky said and that is how fast are you running and where. 250 on the salt is different than 250 at EM or one of the mile tracks, but you probably are going to have different chutes there also. Also are you driving a brick that wants to stop once you are out of the gas or a streamliner that will coast forever? Under 250 I for sure would not worry about front brakes and about anything will work on the back if you have the right chute for the car,
Sum