It`s it`s The Ballerum Blitz. Room for another Beeza?

[tauruck]

Thanks man.

Your axle adjusters look great.
Way better than factory.

Shipping is crazy these days and $4000 is big bucks in any language.
What do you think the whole trip would cost?.

[Koncretekid]

Shipping,
Be sure and check with the Brits who are supposed to be bringing over what seems to be a container load of bikes for Speedweeks.

So what is the other bike - - another sleeper in your stable?  Is it a single cylinder Royal Enfield?  At BUBs, I think they let those things run in Vintage class.  The design lends itself well to keeping the body low.  Compare the seating position on that bike compared to yours.

Question: what wheels are you using?  Looks like SR500 front (19"?) but I don't recognize the rear wheel.  I found it difficult to find a cast rim that had the sprocket line close enough to use with the BSA.  I believe Avon has some AM26's in classic sizes rated for 149 mph.  Above that, I think you have to go to 17's. 
Tom

[Briz]

DHL are never going to be cheap on stuff like this. Airfreight is always a bit eye-watering. Some of our guys did it last year and it did come in at around $4000 with all expenses on a 600kg packace.
If you have the time, sea-freight will be a lot less, but you'll need to allow 8 weeks.

[wobblywalrus]

Ivan, now is a good time to figure out your wheel alignment.  It is simply making sure the back wheel tracks behind the front one and is not cocked to one side or the other.  This is very important and care should be used to make sure it is correct.  People use string, straight edges, lasers, etc.  This is the chart for my bike.  The wheels are in line when the axle adjusters are like shown.  This chart is handy whenever I adjust the chain or take out and put back the rear wheel.  - Bo

[Rasmussen]

Tauruck: you`re welcome . Initially had a budget around 8k, 2 for the airplane ticket and car rental, another 2 to ship the bike, and 4 for accomodation and general living, but it does look like it`s slipping a bit, soooo 10 maybe, and I´ll be living on beans for the rest of the year

Koncrete: Yup, that`s an old Royal Enfield. It used to be in a street bike frame, and was used for classic dragracing, until I built this frame to go from "street legal class" to open/top fuel. Stopped working on it after SW 2012 when I started on the B40. It`s a 1946 model J2, so would be old enough for vintage, but it`s been so modified it wouldn`t be allowed there (it would also be in Altered and not modified like the BSA). Head and crank are Jawa speedway parts. Cylinder is aluminium. Piston is modified Wiseco, it has 11:1 compression and Hitchcocks competition cams. Runs really well, and would be a pleasure to race at Bonneville.
Wheels are Kaw 1000 up front, and Yam 400 at the rear, both 18". The sprocket was 15 mms off, but there was enough material to turn down the hub without weakening it at all, it may actually be stronger with the sprocket closer to the center. Another thing that may be of interest to you, is that I went from  5/8 to 1/2" pitch on chain and sprockets. This leaves room for up to 23 teeth (I`m running 22) on the front sprocket instead of the max 19 I believe you can get in there originally. Believe the smaller sized sprockets help keep rolling resistance low, and probably reduces chainwhip.
No need for 17`s for me just yet, haha. Tires are rated (if I recall correctly, will check it out if you want me to) up to 240 km`s an hour or like you mentioned 149 MPH

Briz: Thanks for the info! The quoted 4k is for seafreight! . I actually have put your number on my cellphone, and considered calling you asking if you got any space left in your container. Just hate the thought of having to ask such a big favour from you guys, and would only ask as a very last resort. Would be great to join up with someone else though. Have asked for Swedes on the Bonneville 2014 thread to see if someone wants to share a container. Have also contacted another shipping company today, and hope that solves it.

WW: Thanks for mentioning that. I was very careful getting both adjusters just right, and when measuring like you showed from adjuster to frame, have the wheel dead straight when both are adjusted the same. You have to be lucky sometimes . I used a straight piece of flat aluminum for checking. Heard once that flourescent lightbulbs are very handy for this. They`re either straight or broken

 

[Rasmussen]

Wobbly, just a thought: If I should experience that my adjusters are slightly off, it would be simple to make one bolt a bit shorter than the other, and end up having the exact same measurement from head of bolt to adjuster, when everything is correct, but I sincerely believe I´m spot on as it is

[RidgeRunner]

     Couple more ways to get there from here:

     Way I was taught back in the early '60's was use a straight edge or string to line the wheels up initially.  Lasers weren't commonly available here in the woods back then, string always seemed to work easiest for me so I've stuck with it.  Then always move each adjuster equally by keeping track of the number of "flats" the adjuster bolts are turned when making chain adjustments or backing off for wheel removal and replacement etc.  Using an additional wrench to hold the bolt while loosening or tightening the locknut helps to maintain accurate flat positions.

     Late '70's I asked a cousin who was raised in the UK how he did it on his bikes.  Said back in the day he had seen one of Hailwood's tuners kneel down about 8-10' behind the bike in a paddock, close one eye and squint ahead for the alignment.   He figured if it was good enough for them it was good enough for him so that's the method he was using at that time.  No idea if he is still using it.

     I've tried the eyeball method but still prefer a string and counting flats.

                                 Ed

[Briz]

Rasmussen; we do still have room for a bike or 2. But you'd have to have it in London for shipping by the 28th of May.
It would have to be on a shipping pallet made from a material that is acceptable for US import.
Many of us are using the steel pallets that HDs are imported on.

[Koncretekid]

    Couple more ways to get there from here:

     Late '70's I asked a cousin who was raised in the UK how he did it on his bikes.  Said back in the day he had seen one of Hailwood's tuners kneel down about 8-10' behind the bike in a paddock, close one eye and squint ahead for the alignment.   He figured if it was good enough for them it was good enough for him so that's the method he was using at that time.  No idea if he is still using it.

     I've tried the eyeball method but still prefer a string and counting flats.

                                 Ed

I use the eyeball method exactly as you have described.  Because the front wheel/tire is usually a bit narrower than the rear, you peer past the rear tire edges (front/rear) and adjust until you can't see the front tire unless you move your head out of line.  String is susceptible to bending, and I don't usually have an 8' long straight edge with me.  Always have my eyeballs with me!

quote author=Rasmussen link=topic=13626.msg248086#msg248086 date=1396281946]

Koncrete: Yup, that`s an old Royal Enfield. It used to be in a street bike frame, and was used for classic dragracing, until I built this frame to go from "street legal class" to open/top fuel. Stopped working on it after SW 2012 when I started on the B40. It`s a 1946 model J2, so would be old enough for vintage, but it`s been so modified it wouldn`t be allowed there (it would also be in Altered and not modified like the BSA). Head and crank are Jawa speedway parts. Cylinder is aluminium. Piston is modified Wiseco, it has 11:1 compression and Hitchcocks competition cams. Runs really well, and would be a pleasure to race at Bonneville.

[/quote]

You would have to use O.E.M. heads, cylinders, and block to stay in Vintage.  Have you converted to OHC or is it still pushrod?  If pushrod, you would run APG.

Tom

Note! 149 mph is just a number! I started at 109 mph and am now running 143 mph.  That 149 number is looking pretty attractive at this point, and I'm glad I have the higher rated tires for this year.

[Rasmussen]

RidgeRunner: I`ve been told that`s how the vikings built their longboats. Not sure how anybody would know that for sure though

Briz: Man, I am extremely thankful for that offer! It would mean a lot of logistics, but also would be great to be going with fellow speedfreaks . I expect a quote from another shipper in a couple of days, but if that falls through, I`ll give you a call. When do you guys expect to pick up your bikes? I can be in the US, on the fourth or fifth of August (late Monday, or early Tuesday) would that be soon enough?

Tom: Still pushrod. It`s an old 2 valve Jawa head, with enlarged inlet valve (modified Chevy small block). The cylinder is scrap, but still have the original head for it, 20 pounds of cast iron with dual exhaust ports (hence the J2 designation). SCTA allows a non original cylinder (look at Briz`s Beeza) for an OHV, and non original head for a SV. Doesn`t BUBs?
I remember when reading that you reached 114 (or was it 116) on it, and thinking wauw!!! that is one fast Beeza. 143 is totally out of this world. If you didn`t have the record to prove it, I honestly wouldn`t believe it , that`s as fast as my fairly modern 1000 cc K model Beemer will go, and that is almost scary running on asphalt
Is it a secret (then I can understand), but if you don`t mind, what gearing are you running?

[Briz]

PM'd you.

[Koncretekid]

Ivan,
The gearing I used last year for the "Open" bike class, at 125 mph, was 20 front with a 45 rear sprocket.  That motor (500cc short stroke) will easily turn 8,000 RPM. The "partially streamlined" version ran 143 mph with a 20 front and a 40 rear.  If you give me your front sprocket size and rear wheel size, and your primary gear ratio, I can email you a spreadsheet in M.S. Excel that will calculate all your speeds with any sprockets you input.  Sumner on this forum has one that will also tell you speed in each gear if you know the ratios.

By the way, I too and running modified Chevy valves in my motors.

Tom

[Rasmussen]

Hi Tom
Sorry about the late reply, had a crazy week at work and haven't been on the net
Now 20/40 that's a pretty tall gearing. I thought 19 was max on the frontsprocket when running a 5/8 pitch sprocket. Assume you don't have a whole lot of space left up front? Short stroke, that's 70 mm's like I got, not?

Yes please, on the spreadsheet . I did my own calculations, but it would be fun to see if we reach the same result.
Engine is 23T, clutch 52, gearbox 22, rearwheel 53 (started out with 52, but changed it when making a sprocket for the new rearwheel), and the reartire says 18 110/90.
Measured the rearwheel diameter to 654 mm's, and got 100 MPH at a little over 7000 RPM. I sincerely doubt it'll pull to 7k in high gear though, and don't even dare thinking about 8. I think a little under 6 isn't unrealistic, and that should give me the 80 that I set as the number I'll be satisfied to begin with
Have never had a tacho on it, but now I want to, if there's enough time left to find and mount one.

No internal gear ratios, but they are LOW! With a 20T sprocket up front, and before the blower was added it would pull wheelies in second gear when the clutch was dropped at high revs

[Koncretekid]

Ivan,
You can fit a 20 tooth front 520 sprocket on the unit singles but you have to clearance the case a bit so the chain will pass thru.  I am actually using a 21 tooth this year.  We clearanced the case very carefully on a milling machine which left something like .060" of wall thickness.  OK if I don't throw a chain (maybe).

I made a spreadsheet using your numbers with a 53 tooth rear and came up with 99.8 mph at 7100 RPM.  At Bonneville, I allow for about 4% slippage (from experience) so the actual speed you get might only be 96 mph.  I don't know if it's actually slippage, or just reduction on the wheel radius at the contact point, but using the 4% reduction works very closely for me.  I think you'll have to PM me with an email address if you want me to email you the spreadsheet.   With it, you can change any of the parameters to get a new speed.  For example, 22 to 50 on the rear wheel will get you about 106mph at 7100 RPM without the 4% reduction for slippage.

As for a tachometer, I recommend the Scitsu.  Large, easy to read, and just an induction wire to tie onto your high tension lead.  It has it's own isolastic mounting so you only have to fasten it somewhere with one 6mm or 1/4" bolt.  You just have to remember to charge it up at night from any 12v battery and it will last all day, no problem.

Tom

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Once upon a time I was riding my first motorcycle -- a sorta customised Honda 750 chopper.  It threw a chain while I was driving down the road (I can remember exactly where it was -- strange, it being almost 40 years ago) and the chain wadded up as it was trying to enter at the top of the drive sprocket.  The rear wheel locked up and I slowed abruptly - but at least kept it up.  After I managed to clear the jam and install a new chain I discovered that I now was the proud owner of a Honda 750 with an automatic chain oiler.  The leak from the crack was just about right for oiling - maybe a tad too big, but close.

I don't think you should go that way on purpose.