Author Topic: Painless Wiring.  (Read 7248 times)

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Offline tauruck

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Painless Wiring.
« on: February 03, 2014, 01:00:31 PM »
A while back I was given this Painless Wiring system.
I'm not used to the type switches it has.
Does anyone know if they are any good?
Should I toss the switches and keep the rest?.

Offline Ron Gibson

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2014, 01:34:40 PM »
Rocker switches as shown, are used in almost all heavy duty trucks in this country. My guess is, they will be fine to use.

MMV
Ron
Life is an abrasive. Whether you get ground away or polished to a shine depends on what you are made of.

Offline Milwaukee Midget

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2014, 03:24:59 PM »
Provided they are actuating relays, it's quite likely they will be fine. 

Having done a rewiring of an MGB, relays make ALL the difference.  A switch may be rated at 10 amps, but if all you have to put through the switch is 1/4 amp to a relay, you will decrease heat and increase the switch's ability to service the circuit, plus end up with less loss in the circuit.

A Lucas switch can actually live, provided it's not running close to maximum rating. 

I KNOW, hard to believe!  :wink:

Used a Painless setup on my buddy's Porsche Bathtub replica.  The kits are pretty complete and decent.
"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  :roll:

Offline 4-barrel Mike

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2014, 03:49:15 PM »
I put this Painless harness http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/lv.php?sl=50001 into the Merkur when I rewired it.  "...designed to be used with our 50201 and 50202 non-fused switch panels..." one of which I'd bet you have, Mike

All relay actuated, Chris.

I've probably done 10 or 12 cars with Painless harnesses.  More expensive that the generics, but much better quality.

Mike
Mike Kelly - PROUD owner of the V4F that powered the #1931 VGC to a 82.803 mph record in 2008!

Offline tauruck

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2014, 04:11:22 PM »
http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/p.php?s=roswp

The one I have is #50303.

I don't know jack about electrical. If you show me where the wire goes to I'll do the neatest job ever but how stuff works I leave to the pros.

If you guys say it's good enough I believe you.

I thought maybe changing out the switches for toggle type but we'll see.

Thanks for the input guys. :cheers:

Offline manta22

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #5 on: February 03, 2014, 04:16:47 PM »
Mike;

I posted this some time ago:

You can pull quite a bit more current through a switch than it is rated for-- but it won't last long. In fact after a few on/off cycles you may find the contacts welded shut, just like a relay that is being used improperly.

The worst application for switches & relays is having a load that is a lamp or a motor. A lamp has a very high "inrush" current when the switch is turned on because its filament has a low resistance when it is cold and an inductive load such as a motor or large solenoid generates a high voltage spike when the current is turned off. These can eventually destroy the switch contacts.

Switches and relay contacts have a current rating that should not be exceeded. In addition the contacts have AC & DC current ratings which may be different. This depends on the metals in the contacts.

Don't go to Radio Shack for the switches in your race car.


Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Offline tauruck

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #6 on: February 03, 2014, 04:48:54 PM »
Thanks Neil, I used to use aircraft spec but haven't been shopping in a while.
I'll stick to the right stuff.

Offline Captthundarr

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #7 on: February 03, 2014, 05:53:25 PM »
Mike, I put a Painlees set up w/ toggle switches in Amy's camaro. I came w/ fuse block with relays not a lick of trouble in 2 1/2 years.
Live,Laugh, Love /  Jack Scratch Racing /ECTA   
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C/GALT 137.65 Ohio Mile check that 144.12 2013, AA/GALT 159.34 Ohio Mile 2014. B/GALT 180.577 RECORD 6/15

Offline tauruck

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #8 on: February 03, 2014, 06:28:29 PM »
Thank you Frank. :wink:

Offline Dean Los Angeles

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #9 on: February 04, 2014, 12:10:49 PM »
I think the rocker switch is a better choice. Easy to operate with gloves on. Toggle switches are too easy to clobber in the heat of battle.

If you don't understand electricity, then you look at all of this as on/off.

It's anything but. When you flip the light switch in the house the light bulb is cold and looks like a dead short to the switch. This is called inrush current. A 60 watt bulb that normally draws about 1/2 Amp steady state current, the inrush current is about 7.5A. Have you noticed the difference in size between your dashboard switch and a wall switch?

Motors have a coil of wire that acts like a balloon. You not only have starting current to get it rolling, but all that energy collapses through the coils as the switch is opening.

There is no difference between a switch and a relay electrically. You could put a huge switch in the dashboard, but that rarely works out space-wise. It's easier to put a small switch in the dash that operates a larger relay.

Switch or relay, there are contacts that look like this:

The large arc happens when you open the switch under load. A smaller arc happens on closing the switch and again when it bounces. If you have seen pitted contacts on a points and condenser ignition, now you know why.

Why not put a much larger contact in the switch? Contacts oxidize over time and the arc breaks through to make a contact. Wetting current is the term for sizing a set of contacts so that enough current exists to break through the oxide. Too small a current for the contact size can result in not breaking through the oxide and the switch doesn't work.

Dang engineers are required for everything.

Here is a relay and a switch primer:
http://www.phidgets.com/docs/Mechanical_Relay_Primer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch
Well, it used to be Los Angeles . . . 50 miles north of Fresno now.
Just remember . . . It isn't life or death.
It's bigger than life or death! It's RACING.

Offline Peter Jack

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #10 on: February 04, 2014, 12:18:25 PM »
Thanks Dean. There's some nice simple, sensible information there and simple is always better!  :-D :-D :-D

Pete

Offline tauruck

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #11 on: February 04, 2014, 01:13:31 PM »
Thanks Dean. :cheers:

Offline runt13

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #12 on: February 05, 2014, 05:38:43 PM »
Ransom........Ransom, anyone?
who would have guessed it would take so long to go so fast for such a short time?

2012 Wilmington mile
April meet,
p/pp-1350/4 record, 132.601mph

September meet,
p/pp-1350/4 record 139.915mph [bump]
p/pp-1650/4 record 142.364 mph
p/pp-2000/4 record 140.009 mph
p/pp-3000/4 record 144.511 mph

2013 Wilmington mile
July meet,
m/pg-1650/4 record 137.278
m/pg-2000/4 record 136.695

Sept meet,
p/pp-1350/4 record 141.1986 [bump]

2014  Wilmington mile
May meet
p/pp-1340/4 record 142.5855 [bump]

Offline Glen

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #13 on: February 05, 2014, 06:28:41 PM »
We use all toggle switches with safety covers. As Dean stated rockers are easy to bump and cause problems.
Glen
Crew on Turbinator II

South West, Utah

Offline manta22

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Re: Painless Wiring.
« Reply #14 on: February 05, 2014, 07:39:13 PM »
I'll respectfully disagree with you, Dean. One good thing about a toggle switch is that it is very easy to see which position they are in-- rockers need a closer look. Those switch guards on toggle switches are great for an "emergency off"-- just bat the spring-loaded coved down with your gloved hand.

Everybody has their own opinion on this-- they both work.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ