belly tank auto cad/solid works

[manta22]

We built a rough frame out of 2X2for our lakester build and found out a lot without cutting and welding a thing. Found out a lot more once we started cutting and welding.

Isn't a 2"x2" piece of lumber actually quite a bit smaller than that? If it was the same size it would make cutting the tube end angles a lot easier-- & cheaper to generate scrap if it's wrong.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[Sumner]

We built a rough frame out of 2X2for our lakester build and found out a lot without cutting and welding a thing. Found out a lot more once we started cutting and welding.

Isn't a 2"x2" piece of lumber actually quite a bit smaller than that? If it was the same size it would make cutting the tube end angles a lot easier-- & cheaper to generate scrap if it's wrong.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

You are right that a 2 X 2 is  1 1/2 X 1 1/2 most places,so you will be compensating for that or rip some wider 2 by something so you end up with 2 X 1 1/2 and put the smaller dimension where it isn't as critical.



Even using the 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 just place them so the outside is where you want the outside of the final frame.  I'm not saying you can't build on the floor and on metal tables but I am saying I'll bet this is faster and easier to locate and hold things in place for welding and fitting for a one off project built by a home builder  ,

Sum

[Elmo Rodge]

1 5/8" diameter PVC pipe comes in really handy. I also used it to cope the joints and transferred the cuts to mild steel. It cuts much easier and is inexpensive. Wayno

[Dr Goggles]

Hey Haag, we are lo lo tech,but our tank was built in 3d cad.

As Sid said this process will give you a healthy respect for the process,it is a journey that others can point you along,but you have to walk it. Ultimately you have to make the choices and quite often they are choosing between all the conflicting advice. All tanks are different,unlike roadsters ....these smartasses here are the best friends you'll have in this process, less experienced friends will encourage you in all the wrong directions,these guys will tap and trip you at every turn, when you're done it will be your build and you'll know every single nuance of it.

Send a PM to Reverend Hedgash and talk to him about what we did, ultimately though you need to choose your fundamentals,measure them and work out how you're going to fit your 15lbs of shite into your 10lb bag, watching eagerly here.

[hotrodderhaag]

Hey Haag, we are lo lo tech,but our tank was built in 3d cad.

As Sid said this process will give you a healthy respect for the process,it is a journey that others can point you along,but you have to walk it. Ultimately you have to make the choices and quite often they are choosing between all the conflicting advice. All tanks are different,unlike roadsters ....these smartasses here are the best friends you'll have in this process, less experienced friends will encourage you in all the wrong directions,these guys will tap and trip you at every turn, when you're done it will be your build and you'll know every single nuance of it.

Send a PM to Reverend Hedgash and talk to him about what we did, ultimately though you need to choose your fundamentals,measure them and work out how you're going to fit your 15lbs of shite into your 10lb bag, watching eagerly here.

Thank you. Appreciate it. Much better than a a
Smart ass remark.
Thanks again

[Emil Shuffhausen]

1 5/8" diameter PVC pipe comes in really handy. I also used it to cope the joints and transferred the cuts to mild steel. It cuts much easier and is inexpensive. Wayno

I'm a plumber. That thought has crossed my mind.

I also like Sumner's idea about female cross-sections of the body. Sounds like a big help in getting everything to fit inside the body.

[tauruck]

I'm using the same tank as OLD CROW .. I've researched it some. P-38 tank?
I'm new to this so take I easy fellas .
Floor space and chalk lines do not help you lay out 15 gals of Subaru in a 5 gal bucket

Floor space & chalk lines have produced my belly tank & my 4WD AA/BFS & as you see many other's.
Just take your pile of parts & lay them out on the floor & draw up a chassis to carry all the stuff inside your tank size.
A tank is an awkard build due to the fact you are building within an existing envelope. Those that have been there have a healthy respect toward other's who have also.
A mockup on the floor is by far the right way to start.
  Sid.

I used Sid's advice for my car and I'm glad I did.

[SPARKY]

Sid is so spot on, There is a lot to be said for taking a bare block, trans housing, rear end and some pvc, 2x4s plywood and start trying to put you and all of your supporting characters tanks and such -- do not forget race pans and valve covers which are usually taller or deeper..

Next I suggest having the tank along side you pile of parts cut you some round bulk heads the same dia. of where you are going to cut the tank---this part will be the constant dia.  Place the bulk heads where they will be in your pile and see if a straight edge will clear the parts( this will take time and lots of more time to get them to clear---you may be amazed at how much longer you may have to make the insert depending on you choice of parts--
Now block the axles and tank up to their race height so you can play with the tapers---it will take a lot of time.

[Richard 2]

I thought I could pack until I looked at a Belly Tank Lakester.

[Sumner]

I thought I could pack until I looked at a Belly Tank Lakester.

I knew I couldn't, so didn't try  ,

Sum

[kiwi belly tank]

I thought I could pack until I looked at a Belly Tank Lakester.

  Sid.

[hotrodderhaag]

thats what i will end up doing. my original thought on the autocad was to lay out the tank dimensions and the shape of it. that way when i call my local fab shop for the rolled tubes to build the cage out of, they can referance that...
i work in a dust collection manufacturing and fabrication shop. we have any type of fab tool imaginable accept a tubing roller! imagine that!
so as far as fabing up the car, that shouldnt be to big of a task, i also have 2 local guys heping me with the chassis and cage. they are NHRA top fuelly guys and both of them have been around this stuff a long time. so when it comes to the design of the cage, the tig weldes. thats all them. they are going to guide me in that direction.
as far as making everything fit, i have been reading several build threads and have gathered hundreds of photos and great ideas from guys.
im new the lakes racing part. i build hot rods as my name may show.. my driver is a McCulloch supercharged flathead model a ford, i also have a 34 ford lakes style car.
so the general gist of buiding a car is easy.
i appreciate all the help guys. once i get started ill be putting alot of photos up. thanks for all the guidance so far! 

[superleggera]

question given the CAD questions above -- what are the diameter cross section widths (and slice distances taken) and overall length of a P38 and other fuel tanks that have been used over the years? (someone posted but I can't find it after dozens of searches on this forum)  Thus one could quickly CAD a fuel tank shape for simulation modeling.  Also what is the CD "real world measured" for a P38 fuel tank by itself? (not assembled lakester)

[superleggera]

That was a fast answer! (thanks)

P38 fuel tank:

Length = 12ft 6in
Max Diameter = 36in

Spacing at 1ft intervals creates:

Section # -- Diameter(inches)
--------------------
 0 -- 0.0
 1 -- 18.5
 2 -- 25.5
 3 -- 31.0
 4 -- 34.5
 5 -- 35.5
 6 -- 35.5
 7 -- 34.0
 8 -- 30.5
 9 -- 25.0
10 -- 18.0
11 -- 12.5
12 -- 7.5
12.5 -- 0.0

[hotrodderhaag]

That's all I need to know. Awesome