I did make a mistake. The ratio is 2:14 and not 2:16. May be Sum will jump in with the rpm's vs speed chart he was telling me about on the phone
this afternoon. Our tires are the Good Year 28" ...Hooley
Well a little late on this and might not be of a lot of interest but an hour till bed-time so....
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I'd like to share the versatility of running a transmission like G-Force's 101 and using one of the spreadsheets on my site in conjunction with it.
Above is one part of the spreadsheet I use. To the right under the double red arrows is a table of the different ratios available for the 101 (top right) for the drive gears (the gears that drive the countershaft off the input end of the main shaft--Input Drive & Cluster Drive). Also shown there to the left of the Input Cluster drive gears are the ratios for 1st, 2nd and 3rd (which can also be an overdrive 4th). Down to the right in that area are the Drive Sets we have and the 1-2-3 gear sets we have bought used for our two 101's (Stude & Lakester) that we can choose from.
Underneath the double purple arrows is where you input the gears you are using for the Input/Cluster and 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Those inputs will then automatically be posted to the left as 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears. So you input the gears, rearend ratio and the tire diameter and the spreadsheet does the rest for you. The area between the 2 middle blue lines gives you a quick idea of speed in gears and you can input any rpm's you want there for your combination.
The top left arrow shows that we have the present Ford 2.47 rear selected and that at 7000 in the overdrive 4th (yellow arrow) the car should be running 270 mph. These are the gears we are going back with for Speed Week but we will have the other gear sets with us. With the transmission out of the car you can change any of the gears in less than an hour. Getting it out of the Stude is not a fun job. I hope to make that much easier with the lakester.
The quick speed in gears at different rpms by the 2 blue arrows is nice but we need to look further down the chart for the telling information and this is something that most of the speed calculators don't give you...
Above we can pick any rpm we want for shift points and see the rpm there and the drop in rpm during the shift and the new rpm in the next gear after the shift. This can help to make sure you stay where you want in your torque/HP curve if you have that info.
Above we will shift at around 7000 for this example. 135 is 6982 rpm in 1st. We loose 2155 on the shift and end up at 4827 in 2nd. In second we would be shifting at 195 and end up at 5827 in the 1:1 3rd. The final shift would be at 230 and we now only loose 925 rpm with the .865 overdrive 4th dropping to 5947. Further down the sheet we would see that 7000 is about 270 mph, our immediate goal.
If that works then we could re-gear the transmission, staying with the 2.47 rear...
...with the gears we have on hand ending up with a .829 overdrive 4th where 7000 is 282 mph and 290 would be 7250. Notice we left the cluster drive gears as they were and only changed the 4th gear set.
The better plan though would be to build the 2.26 rearend we have talked about in this thread.
With it in the car we could again change the gears in the 101 from the ones we have and end up with a better 4th overdrive of .90 which would only give us a 10% rpm drop between 3rd and 4th instead of the 17% we had with the 2.47 reargears. A 700 rpm drop on the shift to 6300 rpm. Now we have changed the 4th gear set and also the Input/Cluster Drive gears.
The G-force 101 is a great fairly low budget transmission for the salt and since it was used by NASCAR and now isn't finding barely used gear sets right now is a pretty easy and inexpensive deal compared to other transmissions out there and the spreadsheet makes it very quick and easy to do 'what-if' scenarios for different combinations of drive gears and gear sets along with rear gear ratios and tire sizes.
One last one.... the dream situation
...changing 4th and the input/cluster gears. We have the gears for all of the above situations and more on hand. They cost anywhere from $50 to $100 per set used but hard to tell they were used.
In the lakester I'll run a combination for the 3 mile course, working on gearing for 175 at the 2 1/4 that hopefully will get the car qualified for the long course and then change to long course gears,
Sum