Anyone looking for a rearend with a taller ratio????

[n49racer]

Hi All
We run a 8.8 in our RMR with the 8.5 gears. They do fit but not out of the box. I use the 2.47 ratio but had a problem setting them up. I ended up with no pinion shims and it still needed to move out. I set it up in the lathe and ground for a little more shim room. Worked great. You also need to play with the yoke as the 8.5 spline is different. I got the 8.5 yoke which uses the 1310 ujoint and it was fine. The car has made about 20 trips in the 240-250 range with no problems.

We used the pickup 8.8 housing as it has the heavier 3" tubes. We put 9" bearing ends on it with new 31 spline axles and a mini spool. I've used this set up in the Street Roadster and will be running it in the RMR this year trying for 300 with a turbo engine. The 2.26 gears are out there and are cheap. IWE rear ends only in BC have them in stock.

cheers
Ted Allan

[Sumner]

Hi All
We run a 8.8 in our RMR with the 8.5 gears. They do fit but not out of the box. I use the 2.47 ratio but had a problem setting them up. I ended up with no pinion shims and it still needed to move out. I set it up in the lathe and ground for a little more shim room. Worked great. You also need to play with the yoke as the 8.5 spline is different. I got the 8.5 yoke which uses the 1310 ujoint and it was fine. The car has made about 20 trips in the 240-250 range with no problems.

We used the pickup 8.8 housing as it has the heavier 3" tubes. We put 9" bearing ends on it with new 31 spline axles and a mini spool. I've used this set up in the Street Roadster and will be running it in the RMR this year trying for 300 with a turbo engine. The 2.26 gears are out there and are cheap. IWE rear ends only in BC have them in stock.

cheers
Ted Allan

Great, and thanks for posting that.  One question, just to make sure.....you used the carrier out of the 8.8 and the 8.5 ring gear fits on it?

Are you going to change to the taller gears for the 300 attempt?  If so could you take some pictures of the change to the rear-end and post them?

Thanks and good luck on the 300 mph run,

Sumner

[Bob Drury]

  Sum, I also am a little confused as  the 8.8 has a 2.47 that came in 83-86 F-100;F-150 and Bronco.  I have one sitting on the shelf.  Maybe that's all he could find.
                                                                                            Bob

[overdue]

I didn't read much past the first post, because I'm wondering why worry about costly custom spools versus welding common open diffs? Which are virtually free. Yes, it's heavier, but the cost difference more than covers the extra power required, or so it seems to me, coming from drag racing. And done correctly, I've had my own welded diffs survive far more than anyone is willing to believe. I had a GM 7.5" survive a 10.21-second pass on drag radials in a full-street-weight car. That's extremely uncommon, even with an automatic transmission, which I was running. I daily-drove that thing for over a year on the welded open diff, at that power level, on those grippy tires.
 So, anyone have any evidence I can read, please, about the weight reduction of a proper spool being worth MPH?

[n49racer]

Sum
I used the 8.8 carrier and yes the ring gear fits right on. For our 300 attempt we're going to run the 2.47 gears with the 28" Goodyears we are running now.  We couldn't get to the final drive we wanted so I talked to Mike Strausberg at B&J, they now make a overdrive unit for their Big Boy trans. We will be using a 1.50/direct single section with the od. It gives us 4 gears, 1.50, 1.20, 1.00, and .80. What's slick is they have lots of gear ratios for the trans and muliple ratios for the od, they are both air shifted which makes it nice for us guys that have the trans behind us.

ted

[n49racer]

Sorry Bob
I should have read the rest of the post. As far as I could find, the highest ratio available for the 8.8 was 2.73. I did have a set of the 2.26 but they were too high for us with the 28" tire so we went for the 2.47 with the set up we were running in B/GRMR with a BBC. With the new turbo set up and a little lower rpm, we found that being able to keep the wheels/tires and gear combo we already had and spend the extra money for a bulletproof trans was a better way to go.

I did have a question that fits. Is it better to go with an od or the hight gear (if available) and taller tires. I'm sure turning the pinion faster with the od is robbing power but is it that much.
 
ted

[Bob Drury]

 Ted, that question is one of the great mysteries in life.  If you still have the 2.26 gear set and want to sell them, I would be a player, but would be glad to give Hooley or Sum the first crack at them.
  Thanks for adding to this post and Good Luck for this year on the salt.
                              Bob

[n49racer]

I don't have the gears anymore, but I do know where they are. I call them tomorrow and check. They were used gears but looked great and I'm pretty sure they were 150.00 I'll also check to see if they have the right yoke to go with them.

ted

[Hooley]

Overdue,
             It isn't the weight reduction that we are after. The 10 bolt has less horse power loss than other rear ends such as 9" Ford.
The extreme high ratio makes the MPH with less RPM. Even though the little tires seem like they should lose traction there is a lot of pressure on the small foot print of the tire. At some point during the pass 100% of the Horse Power goes through every part of the drive train. But it isn't shocked like drag racing
With my ass in the drivers seat I want as much of a safety edge as I can have. At high speed the welded spiders would lock the rear wheels together but did any of the welded parts crack or fatigue
when they cooled? I know it would work but I am not willing to take the chance. I also drag race and had to forget most of it to Land Speed Race. The weight thing was hard for me to grasp.

Good Luck,
Hooley

[Richard 2]

N49racer,
    How much House Power are you running?

Richard 2

[Sumner]

Ted, that question is one of the great mysteries in life.  If you still have the 2.26 gear set and want to sell them, I would be a player, but would be glad to give Hooley or Sum the first crack at them.
  Thanks for adding to this post and Good Luck for this year on the salt.
                              Bob

Hey this approach was yours so if you want that set and they are available take them.  Let me know if you don't as then I'll buy them.  We are all set gear wise to go back next year (at least to SW) with the Ford 9 inch so don't need something right this second but if you take them let me know so I can start looking for a set as I think this is a good way to go for a high HP car over the GM 7.5 if you don't need the 2.14 gears.

....I did have a question that fits. Is it better to go with an od or the hight gear (if available) and taller tires....ted

If you could run the transmission 1:1 instead of the .8 overdrive that would help as in overdrive you are running through 2 more sets of gears in the transmission (down to the countershaft and back up again).  That is the situation we are in with our overdrive G-Force 101.  Also if it was me I'd try and run the taller tires and cut the overdrive down from the 20% drop going into it to less if possible.

https://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_g101a.asp

On that note G-Force is selling the G101-A from time to time on e-bay for about $3100 and that includes any gear set you want (1st, 2nd, 3rd --or 3rd as an overdrive 4th) and it comes with a Vertical Gate shifter that I think will be pretty easy to run linkage to in a rear engine car as it is just back and forth with no "H" pattern.  The transmission is rated to 1000 HP on pavement so more on the salt.  I've been able to find the counter-shaft drive gears and the 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears in sets for $50 to $100 and have sources if anyone needs them.  If someone is looking for one of these I'd recommend the "A" that has a full cuff between the main shaft and counter-shaft.  It makes it stronger than the old Tex 101's or earlier G-Force 101's.  I've learned a fair amount about these transmissions and would share it with anyone looking for one.  There are some things to consider with it comes to the different models past and present and things like having a full splined counter-shaft vs. one with an integral first gear.

Here is a link to the 101 gear ratios available....

https://www.gforcetransmissions.com/pdfs/G101_ratio.pdf

We've run this transmission with no problems and usually shift it without the clutch and in fact lost the clutch 2 years and Hooley did all the shifting without it.  I bought the same transmission for my lakester,

Sum

[overdue]

Hooley,
 Thanks.
 Why would you worry about weld failure if it was done correctly? Or the welding hurting the gears / carrier?
 My own was mig welded, without even pre-heating in an oven, nor slow-cooling in sand,
but even stick-welding with 7018 or even 6011 rod will work. When a 6000 pound truck with a 572, a SM465, and an NP205 on 44s doesn't break a welded diff on a 5500-RPM clutch dump, you know 6011 works just fine.
 Abused diffs are abused diffs, whether 500 miles from help in desert off-roading, or in a safe environ like B'ville.
If you had a bad experience with a welded diff, then the welding was done poorly.
The best source of the most good info about welding diffs is in Pirate4x4.com
If you still insist on a spool, that's your right, and I'll argue no more. I just see no point in spending on things that give no return on investment.

[Bob Drury]

  Sum, I would have no need for them at this time... its one of those "future projects" for me.  I am going to throw the ball back in your court and if you  or anyone else that could use them in the near future doesn't buy them, I will.               Bob

[Sumner]

  Sum, I would have no need for them at this time... its one of those "future projects" for me.  I am going to throw the ball back in your court and if you  or anyone else that could use them in the near future doesn't buy them, I will.               Bob

OK, thanks.  I sent Ted a PM about them,

Sum

[Hooley]

Thanks Overdue,
                          Your right about the proper welds for such an application.  The price of a spool was out of the question. We did find a Torsen for a buck 25 on e-bay.
I put the 2:16 gears on the other day. Later on I will cut the housing to put the Ford bearings and axels on. A friend that is planning a car for Bonneville called Moiser and found out they have a kit to do such
a swap.   If push came to shove we would weld up the spiders.   We are shooting for 1,4000 to 1,600 HP from this motor and try to element anything that could cause problems. I know we can't element all risks
but would like to minimize them as much as we can. 

We're having a ball, hope you are too.
Hooley