Author Topic: Engine temp  (Read 5574 times)

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Offline jdincau

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Engine temp
« on: November 14, 2013, 09:31:32 PM »
Hi all,
     I have to get the temp up in our engine. We leave the line at 180 and pull off at 165. The system is about 3 gallons total with a centrifugal pump and a 180 thermostat. The engine is an un blown 180 inch 4. It is in a street roadster so I cant blank off any of the radiator. I cant slow the pump down cause its direct drive off the front of the cam. I am thinking I have these options, run less than a full radiator, restrict the flow, (and I really don't want to do this to my Ron Davis custom radiator) pinch the cooling fins together at the back side of the radiator.
     Suggestions? experience?
Jim in Palmdale
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Offline wheelrdealer

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Re: Engine temp
« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2013, 09:55:12 PM »
Moroso and others make disc or alum washers that go in the thermostats area to restrict flow. Different size center holes. Probably easy to make.

BR


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Offline Sumner

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Re: Engine temp
« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2013, 10:02:09 PM »
Possibly leave the rad. in but don't use it?  Hose that goes to rad. goes back to block with possibly a small tank if needed in the system,

Sum

Offline desotoman

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Re: Engine temp
« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2013, 10:55:31 PM »
Jim,

What temp do you want to run the motor at? Have you tried a 195 thermostat? My thinking is it might be harder to cool hotter water down as fast. That is the first thing I would try.

Back in 1973 I built a boat with a 6-71 454 chevy. I had the same problem with the motor running too cool, as lake water is pretty cold to start with.  I had two 3/8" lines coming out of the block to dump out the back of the transom. I went and bought some 3/8" wood dowel and drilled different size holes in them for restriction. Then took a candy thermometer and would measure the different temps with the different dowel sizes, until I got what I needed. Worked great for 10 years with a marine cam driven water pump, then the noise got the motor pulled.

Tom G.
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Offline jdincau

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Re: Engine temp
« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2013, 12:10:06 AM »
I would like to finish the run at 200 - 210. No I have not tried a hotter thermostat. As a matter of fact I ought to test the one in it as it is old and may not be opening as advertised.
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Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: Engine temp
« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2013, 12:14:04 AM »
Connecting the radiator inlet and outlet lines with a hose will allow some water to bypass the radiator and it will not cool as much.

Offline Jon

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Re: Engine temp
« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2013, 02:48:45 AM »
Run a bypass thermostat system.
It will circulate water through the engine only until the thermostat temperature then starts to draw some water through the radiator.

This is the setup I'm using in my bike but can do the same with a car motor.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_l3tAB6whexY/TAwWJJFlEcI/AAAAAAAAAs4/yQuP6_B74eE/s1600/Thermo+Bob+2.jpg

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jon
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Offline jdincau

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Re: Engine temp
« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2013, 03:00:45 AM »
it has a bypass thermostat sys
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Offline Jon

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Re: Engine temp
« Reply #8 on: November 15, 2013, 05:44:26 AM »
Messing with the radiator shouldn't effect it with a bypass thermostat system then.
How big is the the bypass line?
Running fuel?, too fat?

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jon
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Offline Stan Back

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Re: Engine temp
« Reply #9 on: November 15, 2013, 11:26:51 AM »
Street Roadsters are limited to gas.  Thermostat control would seem to be the best option to cope with the differences between El Mirage and Bonneville.
Past (Only) Member of the San Berdoo Roadsters -- "California's Most-Exclusive Roadster Club" -- 19 Years of Bonneville and/or El Mirage Street Roadster Records

Offline Jon

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Re: Engine temp
« Reply #10 on: November 15, 2013, 02:45:36 PM »
Street Roadsters are limited to gas.  Thermostat control would seem to be the best option to cope with the differences between El Mirage and Bonneville.

Sorry; limited car rule knowledge.

If your running a bypass cooling system it should be all in the thermostat.
jon
Underhouse Engineering
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