Author Topic: Solo to Sidecar by STD  (Read 132494 times)

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Offline Nortonist 592

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #45 on: October 22, 2013, 12:13:49 AM »
I hate the thought of wasting an aluminum sheet trying to make it anything but flat.
Get off the stove Grandad.  You're too old to be riding the range.

Offline Peter Jack

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #46 on: October 22, 2013, 12:35:11 AM »
For sidecar road racing the sidecar spindle between 10 to 12 inches lead (ahead) of the rear wheel spindle (on a front engine sidecar, other specs on modern rear engine sidecars) ......However, for LSR (only straight line) 12 to 15 inches has worked well for us..................Remember, as per rules if you run a passenger you need a sidecar fender ....and a handhold other then the sidecar mounting tubing.......Also the minimum of 32 inches track is measured from center of rear tire to center of sidecar tire........................Have fun..............

This handy information has been added to my reference files. Thanks Bob!  :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

Pete

Offline Bruin

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #47 on: October 22, 2013, 03:03:15 AM »
I envy glass skills and the knowledge to apply them but barring a generous glasser moving in next door, I will have to go by our team motto, and my personal belief, make do with what you have. I am thinking long and hard about using the stainless. I suppose I could wear gloves and roll the edges so they would not be sharp but there is a second consideration. Some of the bike is already sheathed in aluminum and when you mate different materials like aluminum and steel there is a galvanic reaction. It can be negated by insulating the seams where they meet but sticking to one or the other seems appropriate. I will say that with an extra grunt the stainless steel does bend to one's will.
STD; Speed Team Doo
'82 Honda 500 APS-AF
'70 Triumph 250 MPS-PG
'71 Triumph 250 APS-PF
'70 Triumph 250 M-PG

Offline DND

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #48 on: October 22, 2013, 07:29:11 AM »
Hi Briun

You are taking the term. ' Rear Sets ' to a new level or should I say distance

Neat project

G Don

Offline Bruin

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #49 on: October 24, 2013, 12:13:13 PM »
I conferred with a sheet metal guy (neighbor) and learned there are more than a few tricks to working with stainless steel. Like, you can't let it get hot, even the heat of drilling a hole, or it gets brittle. Not good news if you can't weld and have to drill and rivet aplenty. So I displayed my best whipped puppy face and he is going to hook me up with some aluminum for the body.
STD; Speed Team Doo
'82 Honda 500 APS-AF
'70 Triumph 250 MPS-PG
'71 Triumph 250 APS-PF
'70 Triumph 250 M-PG

Offline manta22

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #50 on: October 25, 2013, 01:08:16 PM »
I conferred with a sheet metal guy (neighbor) and learned there are more than a few tricks to working with stainless steel. Like, you can't let it get hot, even the heat of drilling a hole, or it gets brittle. Not good news if you can't weld and have to drill and rivet aplenty. So I displayed my best whipped puppy face and he is going to hook me up with some aluminum for the body.

I think your neighbor was pulling your leg.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #51 on: October 25, 2013, 09:42:37 PM »
Aluminum.  The wonder metal.

The book "The Racing Motorcycle" Volume 2, has a lot of info about metal alloys, their properties, handling and working, etc.  Just like all metals, it is worth it to know the alloy and temper you are using. This way, when you find something you like, you know what to order for next time.

The basic 0.020 thick sheets from Ace Hardware are easy to work, anneal OK, and get nice and tough after work hardening.  They are from the 2000 series and they do pit from salt corrosion.  That is the only problem I have had with them.

Offline Bruin

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #52 on: October 25, 2013, 10:54:32 PM »
I didn't realize sheet aluminum could be annealed. I just looked it up, rub it with bar soap, torch it till the soap chars, and bend it like chewing gum. I'm interested in giving this a try. Is forming it enough to work harden?
STD; Speed Team Doo
'82 Honda 500 APS-AF
'70 Triumph 250 MPS-PG
'71 Triumph 250 APS-PF
'70 Triumph 250 M-PG

Offline Nortonist 592

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #53 on: October 25, 2013, 11:39:44 PM »
I've been told that after annealing it forms a lot easier but I've never tried it.  I've also been told it work hardens.  Me?  I'll stick with 'glass.  It doesn't work harden and as I have no skill I find it easier to work.  When you start this project please post lots of photos. 
Get off the stove Grandad.  You're too old to be riding the range.

Offline Peter Jack

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #54 on: October 25, 2013, 11:51:37 PM »
If you're annealing it with oxy/acetylene all you do is blacken it with an acetylene rich flame and then burn the black off with a neutral flame. Be gentle with the latter or you're likely to melt the aluminum. The aluminum will be soft after this treatment. When you work the aluminum some more it will harden again and you can re-anneal it. I've used this method when forming tank ends from 6061 aluminum. It works.

Pete

Offline Bruin

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #55 on: October 26, 2013, 12:38:59 AM »
Do you know if it will work with a home butane torch? (Tools at hand.)
STD; Speed Team Doo
'82 Honda 500 APS-AF
'70 Triumph 250 MPS-PG
'71 Triumph 250 APS-PF
'70 Triumph 250 M-PG

Offline Peter Jack

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #56 on: October 26, 2013, 12:43:46 AM »
Unfortunately I don't. I have the oxy/acetylene at hand. I would try it on fairly light material in a relatively small area to see if it can be achieved. Good luck!

Pete

Offline tauruck

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #57 on: October 26, 2013, 12:54:24 AM »
I've been told that after annealing it forms a lot easier but I've never tried it.  I've also been told it work hardens.  Me?  I'll stick with 'glass.  It doesn't work harden and as I have no skill I find it easier to work.  When you start this project please post lots of photos. 
That's why I got into glass in the beginning. Very few tools required and you can make mistakes without too much of a backlash. The metals are all great and I love them but I think Bruin might battle a bit having limited experience and not having a lot of metal working tools. My experience is that he'll find he needs more and more equipment as the job progresses. Bruin, take the simplest route on this one. Believe me and beware of neighbors. They're not always what they're cracked up to be.  :-D
Bruin, listen to Nortonist.

Offline Bruin

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #58 on: October 26, 2013, 02:39:17 AM »
When you talk about glass, are you talking about building a positive and negative form for the fairing? I would not have a clue how to proceed. I'm thinking it would take time and skill and you would need shop room and no small amount of supplies. For aluminum, I just make trial patterns out of cardboard, cut, bend, and rivet. I've got zippo room, no heat, and with winter arriving, cure times for glass would be brutal. Don't get me wrong, a nice glass fairing would be far superior to what I can bend, but like Dirty Harry once said, "A man's got to know his limitations." And heck, I'm in it for the fun of doing something challenging and perhaps creative... within my amateur skill set... and my expectations are low. I'll take pictures of the effort.

And guys, I do appreciate all the tips.
STD; Speed Team Doo
'82 Honda 500 APS-AF
'70 Triumph 250 MPS-PG
'71 Triumph 250 APS-PF
'70 Triumph 250 M-PG

Offline tauruck

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Re: Solo to Sidecar by STD
« Reply #59 on: October 26, 2013, 04:02:43 AM »
We understand. You'll get it right one way or another. :cheers: